anti roll bar drop links

Syncro 4&4 Discussion and Q&A last answered over 2 years ago.
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Matflint
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anti roll bar drop links

Post by Matflint »

I have managed to break one

I know there are two types cranked and straight

I have straight ones but is there a difference between 2wd and syncro straight ones

seen one on ebay (straight) but it states not for syncro

i know you can buy them off brickwerks looked in t3 synco section for £55 which is good price

but looking like i need two as second one has next to no thread, so by the time i add on new bushes its getting

expensive so second hand with new bushes would be best

Any info much appreciated

cheers Mat
1986 Syncro Camper 1800 petrol
1992 Syncro Sika 1600 deisel

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Aidan
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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by Aidan »

Matt
they are syncro specific, early are almost straight not handed, and late are cranked and handed
I have a good used early syncro one here, with new nut, it was the one Simon used as pattern for getting them made

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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by syncroandy »

You could always bin the anti-roll bar. I tried it for a while on my pickup and it wasn't that bad.
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Matflint
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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by Matflint »

Cheers for the offer Aidan

Thats what I was thinking Andy it's not my pick up though it's the camper

The pick up doesn't have an ARB and I think its fine

plus it'll give me chance to save some money if I need to buy the drop links :D
1986 Syncro Camper 1800 petrol
1992 Syncro Sika 1600 deisel

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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by Aidan »

some mot testers will fail it without as they were fitted originally and they can see the marks on the chassis left by the fittings

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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by silverbullet »

Get some mud underneath (not too much, mind) then they can't see the clamp marks! Or go for an MOT in the middle of winter, like I did :lol:
No ARB, no worries. You could always paint the chassis rails or slap on some underseal.

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Re: anti roll bar drop links

Post by dougslug »

When I broke mine and wanted to repair on the cheap, I descovered that the threaded part is actualy
threaded into the cranked part.
I drilled mine out and re tapped it, but I imagine it is a tollerence fit and so heat and some stillsons should
do the job if you can get a grip on it
I replaced it with a length of high tenstile threaded bar and a lock nut..works fine and is now easy to repair
should the problem re occur

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