Temp and Pressure Gauges

[KINGPRAWN]

Thanks guys... Really hoping its an oil pump issue as I have said it goes superbly with no issues except for the crap op!!.... In going in!!!!!

[HarryMann]

For Torchy type diesel no OP...

Unless the pressure relief valve is stuck then afraid to say unlikely to be pump itself... hope I'm wrong.

Have you checked that the vac pump is properly and fully engaged - that'd be a show stopper OP-wise.

For KingPrawn WBX esp DJs...

Worn mains or BEs usually, it'll fail by throwing a rod if you push it. Crank needs a complete overhaul I expect, not straightforward on a WBX either.
.

[quadrando]

Tencent builds wbx's over in The United States in America. He modifies them, and will only guarantee them if an oil cooler is fitted. He modifies the pressure relief valve to improve oil circulation (iirc)

I do build upgraded wbx's that make about 20% more power than stock (35% with my tuned exhaust) and in the process I tighten main and rod bearing clearances and blueprint the "feck" out of the oil pump (3 o-rings!) to guarantee excellent lubrication with lighter-grade oils ( I would forbid use of 20w50 if I could! But none of my customers use it anyway). As such I DO NOT require use of my external oil cooler kit to get a warranty, all my engines have a 1yr/12k miles warranty. But I double the warranty with the addition of one of my external oil coolers as an incentive to use one, because by putting a cap on peak on oil temperatures it allows safe use of even lighter more efficient oils and extended drain intervals to save money and resources. Just wanted to clear that up...

Mr TENCENT' can I run this by you.... My DJ low miles (recon motor) has an oil pressure when cold of 4.5 bar but as soon as the oil temp reaches 80 deg the pressure at idle drops to almost zero! And whilst driving I get 1 bar @ 2k .. 1.5 @ 3k ... 2 bar @ 4 k ( you get the pattern). I use no oil, not rattles, clanks or anything bad! Oil temp never goes much if ever above 80 deg And it goes REALLY well!!!
Oil pump??? Or worse!!!

Hi Guys,
Although I am a little froggy (French), I though I might give you some of my ideas.

I had this problem on a SAAB 9000 turbo.

Although you might have many reasons for this low oil pressure with a warm engine, it seems to me that the connecting rod bearings might be used.
If I were you, I would first check with a thicker oil, 10W60 for example. It is still fluid when cold, and remains thicker when warm. If it improves quite significantly, I would quickly check the connecting rod bearings (on the crank shaft).

The operation is not very costly, in most cases it can be done from underneath.

To give you an idea, about the warm oil pressures I had on my previous cars.

AUDI 100 2.0E 5cyl type 445
Idle 850 rpms - 2.5 - 3.0 bars, 1500 rpms (full pressure) 4.5 - 5.0 bars, oil 5W40 oil temp 100-110°C at normal use. There was no oil cooler on that engine.

BMW 730 engine M30B30
Idle 700 rpm - 1.0 - 1.5 bars, 1500 rpms 3.0 - 3.5 bars, 2500 rpms 4.0 - 4.5 bars. Oil 5W40, no clue about the oil temp.

BMW 540 engine M60B40
Idle 450 rpm, 2.5 - 3.0 bars, 1500 rpms 4.5 - 5.0 bars. Oil 5W40, no idea about the oil temp when engine warm.

AUDI A4 1.8T engine AEB
ile 850 rpm, 2.5 - 3.0 bars, 1500 rpms 5.0 bars. Oil 5W40, oil temp 95°C.

On the SAAB I had under 0.5 bars at idle, rising faster though than your engine. 1500 rpm I was getting 1.5 bars, 3000 rpms 3 bars, full 4.5 bars at 5000 rpm. After replacement of the connecting rod bearings I was at 1.5 bars at idle, full pressure at 2500 rpms.

I hope it will give you some ideas.

Rob

[silverbullet]

Unfortunately, you can't "just" check the con-rod bearings on a flat-4. It means a full engine strip-down, which is probably why some get driven until they explode, because the owner's don't know what a worn-out engine sounds like and keep on driving...

[tencentlife]

Put in thicker oil and oil pressures will go up under all circumstances, it won't single out any area of the engine, the pump will raise higher pressure (pump slip is accountable for a goodly part of the low OP problem on older engines), all bearings and orifices will resist the flow more, pressure will go up across the board. I can't see that as a particularly useful test.

[HarryMann]

He's right. Worn out WBX's are just that. .. a pain in the bum. As I said, when it gets bad enough it'll stretch a BE bolt or spin a bearing and possibly throw a rod... unless you drive it 'very' gently and put a massive oil cooler on it, neither of which is likely I would suggest.

[HarryMann]

Oh! And most engines go like the blazes just before they blow. .. most quoted fact after picking up the bits !!

[orcecaveman]

I'm wondering what to put below the outside temp guage, thinking maybe warning lights? any sensible sugestions?

USB charging point?

Twin USB sockets it is then. Just got to do the wiring 12v > 5v

[axeman]

i fitted the gauges in the lower heater panel (below the diff lock panel (diesle van) but i was not very happy with it as i would have to crank my head over to look at them and it was far from easy to read them at a glance, so i set out to look for a suitable gauge holder that i could fit there as i did not want to cut the dash.
this is what i have come up with and it is much easyer to read the gauges at a glance.


neil

[orcecaveman]

Looks good!

[torchy]

Had a few minutes today and made this up. Had a squeeky moment when I remembered how crap those hole saws can be, so I cut out the holes with a dremmel. I would have liked to have a matching VDO vacuum guage, but this ones not too much different.

This consul is great...I've now almost finished putting number two AAZ engine in the DOKA (first one died) and would like something like this...but the MUD website does'nt have it listed, can anyone point me in the right direction, I would like Oil temp. Oil press, Water temp, Boost and volts. So thats 5 gauges, if I could fit them all in a row on top of the instrument cowl that would be perfect...

Many Thanks

[silverbullet]

On the second page of interior trim (not under accessories, where I first looked)

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/inte ... m.html?p=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the mini one is on page 3

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/inte ... m.html?p=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[torchy]

On the second page of interior trim (not under accessories, where I first looked)

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/inte ... m.html?p=2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the mini one is on page 3

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/inte ... m.html?p=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Brilliant, thanks for that, I've just ordered one and hope my hole saw drilling skills are upto it.

Interesting...why put a gauge pod on the interior trim page?.....got there in the end though.

I'll post a pic if it's succesfull!

Many Thanks

[orcecaveman]

I'd not bother with a hole saw, as I started with mine and it was going all over the place. I just made a series of small holes with a dremell. If the hole saw goes bad, then its F***ed!

[HarryMann]

If you can get one the best and cleanest way is to use a Q-Max hole punch, in the Wiki I believe. 52mm is the usual size for instruments.
Quick and easy but needs an approx 12mm hole first...