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clutch judder

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 09:06
by graeme1210
My 81 1.6 diesel camper had it's first proper outing this weekend after sitting on the drive for 3 months while DVLA tarted around.

Anyway, all was fine and was running ok, but it started to be a little erratic in traffic.

In first and second there is some judder at the top of the clutch if you're slow to release, if you are faster it's ok. Doesn't happen all the time but enough to be an issue. Also gear selection of 1 and 2 was a little awkward - there seems to be a bit of play in the box - is this worn bushes? Gear selection on 3/4 seems fine and driving open road was ok, just in constant stop start. Gears were not jumping out though.

Anyone got any pointers to remedy and what the problems might be, are they things a novice could do or do I need to take it somewhere. - if so any recomendtions? I'm in SE London near Lewisham. I got Volkspares to do some work on it for the MOT who were good but not cheap.

Thanks!

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 10:03
by Dan Wood
My clutch judders if the van hasn't been driven for a day or two. It gets better though once things have warmed up a bit. It's been like that for the last couple of years, and nothing seems to have broken (yet!).

I don't find selecting 1st or 2nd a problem though, so maybe you have a different issue. Check the level of brake/clutch fluid in the reservoir (behind the dash clocks!) in case it's dropped due to a leak somewhere. If there are two of you, one person can press the pedal while the other one observes the clutch cylinder (at the back of the van) and see how far it moves. It might be that your clutch is 'dragging' a bit...

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 14:58
by lhd
Its normally an oil leak, either crankshaft or gearbox main shaft seal.
Had both on mine 83 diesel.
If its not getting worse its probably the crankshaft seal, as when the gearbox main shaft goes it usually gets worse until it starts slipping.
then your gearbox goes bang and your pockets get lighter. :roll:
Check where the gearbox and engine connect if there is oil dripping smell the oil, gearbox oil stinks.
If its only a small (crankshaft)leak no oil will be present and gets burned off by the clutch, Just keep your eye on your oil level.
If it is the gearbox main shaft seal get it done asap.
they are cheap to buy, although its a gearbox off job, not to difficult for a novice mechanic. But sadly unless you know someone its expensive to get done.
Rob.

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 15:29
by graeme1210
Hmmm,

Thanks for the pointers

The oil levels looked ok yesterday - I'll check when I get back tonight, it was all recently topped up as the brakes were completley overhauled for the MOT. I'll have a look underneath but haven't noticed any oil on the driveway. Is it worth draining the transmission and starting again?

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 15:44
by ermie571
Hi,

I too have clutch judder in first and second.....was advised that another thing to look at is your engine mounts....seemingly if the engine is rocking badly, clutch judder can result. Don't know how true this is, but my engine does rock a bit on idle......so hubby will be checking mounts!

Emma

Posted: 02 Apr 2007, 16:37
by kevtherev
oil....if your clutch stinks then it's the gearbox input shaft seal

once contaminated it will always judder

Posted: 03 Apr 2007, 10:39
by graeme1210
I also posted the same question over on brickyard and responses vary from possible transmission oil leak to engine mounts or dying clutch. Bit of investigating neded then.

Any idea on what I should expect cost wise for replacement clutch, so I don't end up paying over the odds? and will the Mr Clutch type of place do such a job?

Cheers for all the help.

Posted: 03 Apr 2007, 11:09
by HarryMann
No they won't!

The release bearing, spurs (burrs on the fork) and an old clutch with lots of dust init, an overheated flywheel, sticky centre plate on the splines.

Best to pop the box off and have a good look aound, as well as be prepared to put a new one in, for £55 or whatever they cost. Ensure clutch cross-shaft is not sticky and release bearing not dry/collapsed..

More pointers here in the Wiki...

Removing box

Re-installing clutch to ensure smooth clutch operation

On the other hand as Ermie says above, check out that the clutch is really giving probs and you haven't an engine or gearbox mount broken, gone soft/perished. Use a big jemmy/lever, with care, but look closely at each mount as you lever mounts around - the eyes have it - no subtitite ofr eyeballing things closely :shock:

Posted: 03 Apr 2007, 18:14
by ermie571
Ermie says above, check out that the clutch is really giving probs and you haven't an engine or gearbox mount broken


wow.....I managed to give some useful information.....perhaps the time spent reading these pages hasn't gone to waste.....

Harrymann or others, a question - why would this only occur in first if it was oil contamination? Surely it would be across all the gears??

thanks - may learn some more!

Posted: 03 Apr 2007, 19:47
by HarryMann
You don't tend top get judder when going from gear to gear. The car has momentum, it all happens quickly and the clutch doesn't do much other than a snap release and re-engagement if you change correctly.

Pulling away from static, the clutch is partially engaged for a lot longer, plus, the low gear, 1st or reverse, multiplies the engine torque to the highest degree of any gear, which winds up the whole transmission more, from tyres right back through the driveshafts to the gearbox and engine mountings.

It can happen on a steep hill when taking a long time to get into a lower gear and there is a big loss of vehicle speed, which again necessitates the clutch slipping as it engages that bit more than in higher gears - as the engine and road speed for that gear aren't well matched, unless a healthy blip or a double-de-clutch takes place