Central locking
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- CovKid
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Central locking
I just bought a universal central locking kit. Would anyone be interested if I created a 'how to' page with photos so you can see how I fitted it? If so I'll create one - could be put into WIKI if admin will accept it.
- geordie skydiver
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- CovKid
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Right I'll photograph the whole process. I will try to do all doors (if possible). The tailgate may prove more troublesome but I'm sure I can find a solution to that too. These T25s are a lot bigger to walk round to check for unlocked doors than your average car and central locking has to be worth doing.
you are not wrong there, going back from a car with central locking is a pain for sure, i have yale deadlock on the cab doors, an if i get in and forget to unlock the other side it' a big time painCovKid wrote:. These T25s are a lot bigger to walk round to check for unlocked doors than your average car and central locking has to be worth doing.
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- Mash
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Oh great! I have one of those kits in the garage, it'a been there for ages and Matt has regularly said he's going to fit in Gromit but not got round to it yet
At least it will give me an excuse to annoy him some more
Mrs M
At least it will give me an excuse to annoy him some more
Mrs M
Matt & Ash
1983 2.1DJ LPG Westy Club Joker 5M
2010 2.0 T5 Multivan 132kW Comfortline(Aus Spec)
1983 2.1DJ LPG Westy Club Joker 5M
2010 2.0 T5 Multivan 132kW Comfortline(Aus Spec)
- CovKid
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Just PM'd Dave about this but one problem that does occur to me is that since the sliding door moves around three feet, you have to get power to the central locking mechanism without cable trailing or getting nipped anywhere.
My hunch is that the way to do this is with door contacts so the central locking has power when the door is actually shut. I did find this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SLIDING-VAN-CARGO ... dZViewItem
Anyone suggest any other sources for these?
My hunch is that the way to do this is with door contacts so the central locking has power when the door is actually shut. I did find this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SLIDING-VAN-CARGO ... dZViewItem
Anyone suggest any other sources for these?
- tonytech
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My Caravelle has CL as standard. It uses a contact plate with 4 spring loaded contacts (though only 3 are used)
My MK1 polo used similar contacts for heated rear window and wash wipe. (beats the wires routed through tailgate hinge area, that fray and break)
T
My MK1 polo used similar contacts for heated rear window and wash wipe. (beats the wires routed through tailgate hinge area, that fray and break)
T
There are 10 kinds of people. those who understand Binary and those who dont
- vanjam
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we've had some discussion on this before, I posted something i know but i can't find a link to it. I used a maplins kit (cheap but functional-strange how few letters you have to change to transform cheap to crap).
You need to use any suitable vehicle's sprung connector/contactor unit to provide power to the sliding door. I got one from a scrap escort hatch, I imagine many things with a silding door or large tailgate with electricals in it will be a good option( I know those suzuki rascals have them) .
You do have to carefully carve out a suitable orifice in the door post and door and ensuring accuracy is quite hard due to the combination of angles and movement of the sliding door. It's worth using paint/tippex to identify where male contacts will sit before carving out. It's alos necessary in the sliding door to use a good stiff piece of wire (coathanger type) to increase the reach of the linkage supplied by dear old maplins and you have to tease all the various gubbins around and be quite disciplined in terms of space to make sure everything operates without interfering with everything else.
Rear gate is a different story, the lock mechanism is entirely different in principle from the other doors and it requres much more re-engineering (in my view) to get it to work. It's entirely feasible but so far, I have just run the control wire to the tailgate, but haven't yet got grips with the it. It's a separate task. I think.
Cheers
Jim
You need to use any suitable vehicle's sprung connector/contactor unit to provide power to the sliding door. I got one from a scrap escort hatch, I imagine many things with a silding door or large tailgate with electricals in it will be a good option( I know those suzuki rascals have them) .
You do have to carefully carve out a suitable orifice in the door post and door and ensuring accuracy is quite hard due to the combination of angles and movement of the sliding door. It's worth using paint/tippex to identify where male contacts will sit before carving out. It's alos necessary in the sliding door to use a good stiff piece of wire (coathanger type) to increase the reach of the linkage supplied by dear old maplins and you have to tease all the various gubbins around and be quite disciplined in terms of space to make sure everything operates without interfering with everything else.
Rear gate is a different story, the lock mechanism is entirely different in principle from the other doors and it requres much more re-engineering (in my view) to get it to work. It's entirely feasible but so far, I have just run the control wire to the tailgate, but haven't yet got grips with the it. It's a separate task. I think.
Cheers
Jim
1985 1900DG wc liesuredrive hitop with small amounts of rust
- tonytech
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Late model Caravelles had C L to rear gate. They have the larger diameter lock.
When the key is vertical the gate is locked, key at 1 O'clock gate unlocked, key horizontal locked or unlocked dependant on C L.
Try one of the breakers for the part.
T
When the key is vertical the gate is locked, key at 1 O'clock gate unlocked, key horizontal locked or unlocked dependant on C L.
Try one of the breakers for the part.
T
There are 10 kinds of people. those who understand Binary and those who dont