Fridge Panel Repair

For documenting and technical details of T25 restorations and major repairs
This section is for major restorations only.where to buy a panel or where to buy window rubbers belong in the bodywork seats and glass section.
Also please note,we need pictures of the restorations,without them posts are pretty useless.[\b]
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jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

Slave, master, hose all replaced and working. Fluid coming out of master was black so I think it was a good idea to replace that. Not a difficult job in the end!

Brickwerks advised the smokey exhaust may be breather issues rather than turbo. Don't know what that implies. I wonder how difficult taking out an engine would be?

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

The bits of the clutch hydraulics which I replaced. The slave is just a big lump of rust with no hope of using the bleed screw. You can also see the localised corrosion on the pipe where the steel pipe joins the plastic. I guess rubbing with tie-wrap could have rubbed off any paint protection as the rest of the pipe is still like new. You can see I have only cut out 5 inches and only the first half inch has any corrosion - the pipe is below the master cylinder in the picture.

clutchbits.jpg
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jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

I fixed the clutch and went for an installation lap to Coop but the smokey exhaust was too worrying to go far. Lots of diagnostics left me thinking it can't be much else but Turbo. I really, really wanted to take the van to Torquay tomorrow so I decided to take a chance and slap on a new one. All went well ... until the exhaust fell off. Too late to source new mounts so looks like I'll be taking a 5 hour train ride.
FYI I can't tell any difference in slop between new and old turbo so it could have been for nothing. Nice and shiny though. And I did learn where the fuel shut off solenoid is.

I think I'm close... but this van keeps surprising me. Sticky starter solenoid needs attention but who knows where that will lead...

RogerT
Posts: 1262
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
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Location: Central Scotland

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by RogerT »

Is it a sticky solenoid or just an inadequate connection from the trigger wire? Mine was the latter (but I bought two solenoids before solving that particular prob).
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

I've replaced ignition switch and connection. Could be wire from cab to engine bay, could be earth. I get a loud click, just no turnover sometimes. So far, this is the least of my reliability problems.

In case anyone thinks of replacing their turbo I have a few (obvious after you know them) tips:
1) you can stop you Diesel firing by pulling off the lead to the fuel solenoid - the only wire going to the injection pump.
2) with wire off, you can turn your engine over to check oil comes out of feed pipe and then to pump oil through the turbo. With the drain pipe off you should get a good mess of oil.
3) easy to check return pipe is not blocked - use it to drain oil when you do the oil change.
4) there is one bolt on the manifold that is more awkward than the others - one of the long expensive ones nearest the engine block. If you undo this with a socket and ratchet without extension then, as the bolt comes out, the ratchet may foul on the manifold. This will work the socket off while mangling the head of the expensive bolt. I found it best to use a fairly long extension bar and do it from above - i.e. in the engine bay.

I recently got a longer handled swivel head ratchet from halfords http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... tchet--3-8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and it makes a lot of jobs much easier - longer handle is useful leverage; thin handle means you can slide 3/4 inch pipe over it and get an adjustable length breaker bar. Very tempted to get the swivel stubby as well.

RogerT
Posts: 1262
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
80-90 Mem No: 13706
Location: Central Scotland

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by RogerT »

Trouble with using your nice ratchet as a breaker bar is - the ratchet internals won’t be nearly as strong as a breaker bar. So it will soon turn into a bit of a free spinning thingy.

I use a ratchet for easy quick tightening/undoing, a torque wrench for tightening to the required, and a 750mm breaker bar for big undoing. Each tool has a specific use, it’s quicker and cheaper in the long run to get what you need. And I use 1/2 inch sockets all round, ( I was lucky, I inherited a 1/2” torque wrench with a house I bought, so stuck with 1/2”) which means I can use all my strength without anything breaking. You can put a scaffold pole over the breaker bar handle. Eg trying to remove a radius rod, I tightened two nuts against each other at the top - one foot against an 18” long ring spanner on the lower nut, and hauling with both hands on the breaker bar with all my strength, then a scaffold bar on the breaker bar to remove the radius rod when the nuts were totally jammed. A ratchet would just disintegrate with that treatment. Really, it will save you money by not having to replace tools.
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

Turbo was knackered. Exhaust had extra mounting bracket attached which must have confused last person and so they didn't attach it with bolts - just hung it off the turbo and jubilee at other end. Van powers up hill now - hardknott here I come. Well, battery, suspension, wheels, and starter first.

FYI the halfords pro ratchets seem to hold up well to abuse - I haven't broken one yet :)
I have exploded one of those cheap 1/2" torque ratchets and a few cheap 1/2" sockets.

RogerT
Posts: 1262
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
80-90 Mem No: 13706
Location: Central Scotland

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by RogerT »

Sounds OK then. I think I may be over-cautious...
'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

New oil in gearbox and lubed gear linkage at gearbox end. Put my clothes in the wash afterwards and now everyone and the house smells of gearbox oil.

New starter motor fitted. It wasn't like the 'how tos' I watched on youtube. On the Diesel, both bolts are 15mm hex and insert from the back. One also holds on the clutch mounting bracket. Swivel head ratchet seems like cheating it makes it so easy! You have to take of the bolt from the other end of the clutch bracket then twist and leaver the starter motor to get it out of the clutch bracket/bell housing sandwich. Brut force. Fitting was a bit easier for once.
I replaced motor to fix dodgy solenoid but it looked like other things were on the way out - like the cable from solenoid to starter.
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Took the van to Halfords today to get a new battery - we survived the trip, up hill and down. Nothing fell off or broke. Starting is so much quieter, smooth gear change, turbo kick when in the green. This could be the turning point.

Engine-wise... seems like I still need glow plugs to start even when warm. I have to disconnect the temp sensor. Don't know if that is a bad sign but I'm going to assume it is something to do with burning oil for a few years and it will clear up after some long trips :)

Wheels and suspension next. I'd like high-lift and bigger tyres but not sure. Someone definitely fiddled with the front end and things are not right. Not sure about clearance either - I have one finger width (~10mm) of clearance between tyre and upper wishbone so not a lot to play with- this is with std 14" 185 tyres.

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

Sailed through another MoT.
Brickwerks highlift kit just back in stock... I wonder how tricky it is to fit?

crazyhorse
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Location: Llantwit Major, Bro Morganwg, South wales

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by crazyhorse »

jhobson wrote:Sailed through another MoT.
Brickwerks highlift kit just back in stock... I wonder how tricky it is to fit?

Im with you on this one... Its been on my treat to myself list next year, but having spent over 3000 on the van this year will hold back ...

Thinking of fitting it myself... given the work that you have done, I think it will be pretty straight forward.

Decent spring compressors is the key. Will be watching to see if you do it and I may then follow suit
87 Transporter 1.9 WBX DG and LPG. In Maroon

http://www.guestwho.biz

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

Oops
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multisi
Posts: 1244
Joined: 03 Apr 2016, 12:01
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Location: jersey

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by multisi »

Is that with the high lift kit fitted !
1992 red lle 2.2 subaru 1990 rhd caravelle 2.2 subaru 1986 california import vanagon

jhobson
Posts: 61
Joined: 24 Oct 2009, 16:53
80-90 Mem No: 7840
Location: j6 M25

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by jhobson »

multisi wrote:Is that with the high lift kit fitted !
I like the slammed look. I'm delaying the lift fit for a while and living with this to make sure I know which I like. I'm finding this a little impractical.

RogerT
Posts: 1262
Joined: 10 May 2013, 11:59
80-90 Mem No: 13706
Location: Central Scotland

Re: Fridge Panel Repair

Post by RogerT »

Close, but no cigar.
Try again?
Image


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'88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.

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