Caravan Wheels for VW T25

[Phil D]

thats not enough sticking out you need more and i would say the tyres are to small really, are you just trying to find cheaper alternative wheels? 

He has some steel wheels as well but the seats on those do not look like they are radiused or tapered they just look like a square edge!

[mrhutch]

changing the studs doesn't need a press, I've done loads over the years.

[Phil D]

changing the studs doesn't need a press, I've done loads over the years.

Think knocking out the old ones would be ok as they are being thrown away, but the Brickwerks guidance specifically says do not use lug nuts to pull the new studs through as it will damage the studs. Guess you could pull through initially to get them square and started and then hammer them home or maybe rig up a vice and some steel packers as a press? Not sure what force is needed or how easily they press in, what did you do mrhutch?

[Aidan]

The original VW taper seat nuts are only on by something like 5 turns in the factory alloys on standard rear studs (34.5mm overall length) but the taper bolts for the front were 32mm instead of 19mm; they are torqued pretty tight; afaik VW didn't fit longer rear studs on Caravelles fitted with alloys in the factory and I ran pepperpots on my Syncro with stock length studs front and rear for years

[R0B]

I have standard studs on my Caravelle with pepperpot alloys and have had for years the same as Aidan had.

[SyncroMatt]

I have standard studs on my syncro. I ve been playing with various wheel combos of recent.

Here are some numbers for full rotation of nuts until they snug down onto the wheels, still need the torque wrench applying.

Standard 14" steels with standard nuts: front 12 rotations (18mm) rear 11 rot (16.5mm)
Carat alloys with BW taper nuts: front 9.5 for (14mm) rear 7.5 rot(11.25mm)
Aftermarket rim for Merc r14 seat with standard nuts: front 9.5 rot, rear 7.25 rot
Chinese made Mefro style trailer rim with BW R12 nuts:front 9-9.5 rot , rear 7.5 rot

All.of those measurements are over 75% of the 14mm diameter stud.

On that last point I have read differing opinions online. From 75% to 150% thread diameter required. The latter being for racing.

This is for information only and doesn't constitute advice as I'm not qualified in that sense.

Matt

Matt

[Phil D]

Thanks Guys,
I bit the bullet and bought five wheels and tyres for £250. Based on the earlier advice about the studs not being that difficult to replace I followed the Brickwerks advice and bought 50mm extended studs for the rear and 50mm conversion studs for the front, this should give 35mm of thread (10mm for the wheel and 25mm for the nut). Fronts will be straightforward with the conversion studs, I will try and press the rear studs in with a vice and a long socket, failing that my local garage has a press and I am getting them to press in my new lower ball joints on the front suspension so they can do the studs as well.

The centre bore is 70mm but the hub pushes off the centre cap so I think I might need to buy some Fuchs deep centre caps that are 71mm dia. and should not foul the hub.

Now all I need to do is get the trailing arm off and split the 46mm hub nut, not even going to try and use the breaker bar and scaffold pole!