Autohomes roof replacement blog
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Autohomes roof replacement blog
Following the failure of my pop up roof on my Autohomes Kamper and this thread: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... s#p8039435" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, it was time to bite the bullet and replace the top as the aluminium panel had failed with numerous pin hots, which had soaked the cork insulation and rusted the hinges. Plus it weighed a ton to lift.
Neil from Shapes GRP (http://www.shapesgrp.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) delivered a lid a few weeks ago. The hope is to salvage most the parts replacing only the lid (this will go on ebay if anyone fancies a project)
The plan is to do it over a month or so broken into several stages. I'll try to photograph the various stages and post as I go along with some photos.
Neil from Shapes GRP (http://www.shapesgrp.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) delivered a lid a few weeks ago. The hope is to salvage most the parts replacing only the lid (this will go on ebay if anyone fancies a project)
The plan is to do it over a month or so broken into several stages. I'll try to photograph the various stages and post as I go along with some photos.
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- P1040211_2_1.JPG (98.85 KiB) Viewed 6278 times
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 1.
Decided that I'd not put a vent in at this stage. If it gets too hot then I'll add but I didn't want to cut a hole in a nice new shiny roof.
the first task was to insulate it. I used 20mm Selotex rigid insulation board that can be cut to size. Fortunately the boards come in 120 x 240 size so only one was needed at a cost of £16.
It was then glued in place using a DIY no-more-nails type glue just to stop it moving around
Decided that I'd not put a vent in at this stage. If it gets too hot then I'll add but I didn't want to cut a hole in a nice new shiny roof.
the first task was to insulate it. I used 20mm Selotex rigid insulation board that can be cut to size. Fortunately the boards come in 120 x 240 size so only one was needed at a cost of £16.
It was then glued in place using a DIY no-more-nails type glue just to stop it moving around
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- P1040212_3_1.JPG (112.36 KiB) Viewed 6277 times
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- P1040210_1_1.JPG (58.3 KiB) Viewed 6277 times
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 2.
Today's task was to line it. I wanted to keep it as light as possible so used 4mm beech ply. Unfortunately it is larger than a normal 8 x 4 sheet so I had to buy a 10 x 5 sheet to avoid having a join. This was a heady £55.
This was glued and screwed in place using stainless 20mm screws and has stiffened the whole roof hugely as it now acts a 3D structure. The plan is then to lightly sand and varnish the ply. I won't get directly wet but will need some protection. The benefit of the expensive ply is that is is a high grade thus does not need much finishing.
I've also taken off the rubber seal from the old roof, which with a clean is fine. Interestingly every clip within it holding it to the old roof skirt had completely rusted out. Thus I plan to glue it back in place to avoid this again.
Next event is to cut the GRP opening to enable the rubber seal to sit in the correct place on the body.
Today's task was to line it. I wanted to keep it as light as possible so used 4mm beech ply. Unfortunately it is larger than a normal 8 x 4 sheet so I had to buy a 10 x 5 sheet to avoid having a join. This was a heady £55.
This was glued and screwed in place using stainless 20mm screws and has stiffened the whole roof hugely as it now acts a 3D structure. The plan is then to lightly sand and varnish the ply. I won't get directly wet but will need some protection. The benefit of the expensive ply is that is is a high grade thus does not need much finishing.
I've also taken off the rubber seal from the old roof, which with a clean is fine. Interestingly every clip within it holding it to the old roof skirt had completely rusted out. Thus I plan to glue it back in place to avoid this again.
Next event is to cut the GRP opening to enable the rubber seal to sit in the correct place on the body.
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- P1040213_4_1.JPG (51.69 KiB) Viewed 6275 times
Last edited by ricp on 16 Jun 2015, 19:42, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 3. Convertible camper
Taking the roof off involved unscrewing the piano hinges at the top of the end panels. This then made it pretty unstable however once the struts were then disconnected at the van end the roof lifted off (with the help of a slightly unwilling teenaged son - beige 80's camper no-longer cool for him).
It was then a 2 person lift to get the old roof off. The leaking roof had been bad enough to completely rust out the hinges on the top of the side panel. The front 2ft just crumbled away. However a replacement hinge was only £10 online.
Other tasks were the trimming of the grp edges for a trial fitting of the old seal. This was done with the trusty angle-grinder, a strong breeze and holding of breath. However a trial fit of the new roof on the van shows it sits in the same position as the original.
The key next stage will be getting an accurate reference point to get all the sides, latch and rear hook to line up correctly. I plan to work from the front latch point as that determines how far forwards/back and left and right the roof will sit.
Taking the roof off involved unscrewing the piano hinges at the top of the end panels. This then made it pretty unstable however once the struts were then disconnected at the van end the roof lifted off (with the help of a slightly unwilling teenaged son - beige 80's camper no-longer cool for him).
It was then a 2 person lift to get the old roof off. The leaking roof had been bad enough to completely rust out the hinges on the top of the side panel. The front 2ft just crumbled away. However a replacement hinge was only £10 online.
Other tasks were the trimming of the grp edges for a trial fitting of the old seal. This was done with the trusty angle-grinder, a strong breeze and holding of breath. However a trial fit of the new roof on the van shows it sits in the same position as the original.
The key next stage will be getting an accurate reference point to get all the sides, latch and rear hook to line up correctly. I plan to work from the front latch point as that determines how far forwards/back and left and right the roof will sit.
- Attachments
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- P1040217_2.JPG (75.76 KiB) Viewed 6237 times
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- 80-90 Mem No: 9026
- Location: Sleaford, Lincolnshire
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Thanks for doing this. I refurbed ours about 5 years ago and although it's held up well, the cap looks tatty and could do with replacing at some point. How much was the cap if you don't mind me asking?
You're right - getting the struts in the right place is critical to make sure everything lines up correctly. Ask me how I know...
Ben
You're right - getting the struts in the right place is critical to make sure everything lines up correctly. Ask me how I know...
Ben
1986 1.9DG Autohomes Kamper "Doreen"
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 4
The new hinges arrived from these people:
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... ted/822273" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A 20 minute job to replace the rotten old with the nice shiny new. Also the final coat of varnish for the ply inside. Will try to attach another photo but it keeps telling me the board attachment has been reached?
Ben - I paid £350 but it was the spare to the original that Shapes made, thus surplus to their requirements and without a central vent. I think the production ones are a bit more.
The new hinges arrived from these people:
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/prod ... ted/822273" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A 20 minute job to replace the rotten old with the nice shiny new. Also the final coat of varnish for the ply inside. Will try to attach another photo but it keeps telling me the board attachment has been reached?
Ben - I paid £350 but it was the spare to the original that Shapes made, thus surplus to their requirements and without a central vent. I think the production ones are a bit more.
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 5
This was probably the most challenging bit. I needed to get the front and rear catches in exactly the right position and from there the strut mounts so the roof would sit correctly.
I used the front sprung pin as the reference point from which all the measurements were taken. Then I used a center line down the whole roof to enable the lateral spacing to be correct. The easiest way was, once having marked the front pin position on the new roof inside, then to lay the old and new side by side and make exact measurements from the old and transfer the fixings to the new. The critical distance is the gap between the front pin and the rear catch to ensure the roof clips down. Fortunately all the ply fixings were ok, only the hinge needed replacing and as the new roof had ply bonded into the frame, screwing it together was easy. If you ensure no screw is longer than 20mm, you can never puncture the new roof, which would be bad!
Will try to add more pictures but it is still stopping me.
Once this was all complete, I gave it a gentle rub down and and 3 coats of flexible rubberised GRP paint, that was recommended for caravans, Land Rover bodies etc. Cost was £50 ish from these guys: http://www.paintsrus.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. It was applied with a 4'' roller and gives a satin finish so hopefully will match the old white GRP of the roof.
Once dry it will be time to lift into place.
This was probably the most challenging bit. I needed to get the front and rear catches in exactly the right position and from there the strut mounts so the roof would sit correctly.
I used the front sprung pin as the reference point from which all the measurements were taken. Then I used a center line down the whole roof to enable the lateral spacing to be correct. The easiest way was, once having marked the front pin position on the new roof inside, then to lay the old and new side by side and make exact measurements from the old and transfer the fixings to the new. The critical distance is the gap between the front pin and the rear catch to ensure the roof clips down. Fortunately all the ply fixings were ok, only the hinge needed replacing and as the new roof had ply bonded into the frame, screwing it together was easy. If you ensure no screw is longer than 20mm, you can never puncture the new roof, which would be bad!
Will try to add more pictures but it is still stopping me.
Once this was all complete, I gave it a gentle rub down and and 3 coats of flexible rubberised GRP paint, that was recommended for caravans, Land Rover bodies etc. Cost was £50 ish from these guys: http://www.paintsrus.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. It was applied with a 4'' roller and gives a satin finish so hopefully will match the old white GRP of the roof.
Once dry it will be time to lift into place.
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Day 6 - finished
Fortunately I picked the hottest day of the year to fix the new roof on. Time to get a bit of a sweat on.
The plan was to get the roof to the extended height. Somehow support it there and then attach the struts then the end panels. I used an acroprop at the cab end and I cut some 4'' x 2'' the correct length for the back. Then attached a cross piece on each, which was then padded using foam so as not to damage the inside of the roof when supporting it.
I then attached the 4 struts to the roof and tie-wrapped them to the roof to stop them dangling down as we lifted it.
Covering the aluminium panels on the top of the van with old carpet, we positioned the new roof on top and gradually lifted it at each end to get it to height. At the driver's end it was easy as you can stand on the roof above the cab. A bit more emotional at the back stood on the bumper then on some steps. However, once achieved, it was relatively stable propped up but if there had been any wind, it would not have worked.
Then we were able to attach the struts to the van. This was a struggle and took some manoeuvring of the roof to get it all to line up. The roof still needed to be supported but hand as well as the home made supports as the struts have no lateral stability and if left will allow the roof to fall sideways as shown in the photo of removal.
Then from inside, I was able to extend up and attach the end aluminium panels, which prevent the roof moving side to side. Again, this took some sweat and language to line up and compress the roof down a bit in order that the panels match the original positions.
Overall this process took a couple of us 90 mins. I'm not sure that more people would have helped due to the limited amount of space around the van.
The proof of the pudding was in lowering the roof. And it fitted perfectly, even on both sides and latch both front and back. Thus the importance of getting the measurements for the struts, catches etc exactly right.
I will try to redo all the photos to allow me to add the later ones but the roof being all one piece and white is a huge improvement over the old as well as being watertight for the first time in a few years.
The overall cost including top, paint, roller, hinge, ply, insulation and stuff I had in the garage was around £475, significantly cheaper than the alternatives.
Fortunately I picked the hottest day of the year to fix the new roof on. Time to get a bit of a sweat on.
The plan was to get the roof to the extended height. Somehow support it there and then attach the struts then the end panels. I used an acroprop at the cab end and I cut some 4'' x 2'' the correct length for the back. Then attached a cross piece on each, which was then padded using foam so as not to damage the inside of the roof when supporting it.
I then attached the 4 struts to the roof and tie-wrapped them to the roof to stop them dangling down as we lifted it.
Covering the aluminium panels on the top of the van with old carpet, we positioned the new roof on top and gradually lifted it at each end to get it to height. At the driver's end it was easy as you can stand on the roof above the cab. A bit more emotional at the back stood on the bumper then on some steps. However, once achieved, it was relatively stable propped up but if there had been any wind, it would not have worked.
Then we were able to attach the struts to the van. This was a struggle and took some manoeuvring of the roof to get it all to line up. The roof still needed to be supported but hand as well as the home made supports as the struts have no lateral stability and if left will allow the roof to fall sideways as shown in the photo of removal.
Then from inside, I was able to extend up and attach the end aluminium panels, which prevent the roof moving side to side. Again, this took some sweat and language to line up and compress the roof down a bit in order that the panels match the original positions.
Overall this process took a couple of us 90 mins. I'm not sure that more people would have helped due to the limited amount of space around the van.
The proof of the pudding was in lowering the roof. And it fitted perfectly, even on both sides and latch both front and back. Thus the importance of getting the measurements for the struts, catches etc exactly right.
I will try to redo all the photos to allow me to add the later ones but the roof being all one piece and white is a huge improvement over the old as well as being watertight for the first time in a few years.
The overall cost including top, paint, roller, hinge, ply, insulation and stuff I had in the garage was around £475, significantly cheaper than the alternatives.
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- Registered user
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- Joined: 16 Nov 2010, 16:30
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- Location: Sleaford, Lincolnshire
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Nice one - they're a real pain to fix back on aren't they? The back is definitely more dangerous. Neighbours called out an ambulance for me when I fell off the steps! Managed to hobble to the pub later though...
1986 1.9DG Autohomes Kamper "Doreen"
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Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Ours doesn't leak, at the moment! But this is great info that I'm sure I'll need at some point! Thank you!
1981 T25 2.0l air cooled Autohomes Kamper. "Bob"
Re: Autohomes roof replacement blog
Hi, I know it's been a long time since you replaced your roof, but could to post some pics, as we had awful trouble trying to get the roof up and when we did, one of the struts gave way . Never attempted anything like this before! Thanks