Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

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irishkeet
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by irishkeet »

garyd wrote:I made my own simple tool to avoid risking the vacuum actuator to push and pull the rod in & out.

It is basically 'T' shaped with the centre shaft matching the vacuum servo rod in diameter and with a similar groove filed around it. After removing the servo, the tool can be fitted in it's place with the roll pin and used to push/pull the actuator rod.

Adding this to the oil in the switch aperture and lots of effort has worked well for me.

Hi

Any chance you can pop up a photo of this please?

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clift_d
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by clift_d »

garyd wrote:I made my own simple tool to avoid risking the vacuum actuator to push and pull the rod in & out.

Pics or it didn't happen :D
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro

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Gary.
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Gary. »

garyd wrote:Adding this to the oil in the switch aperture and lots of effort has worked well for me.

Are you suggesting removing the switch and putting penetrating oil in there?
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

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garyd
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by garyd »

Gary. wrote: Are you suggesting removing the switch and putting penetrating oil in there?

Yes, the warning light switch above the diff-lock actuator unscrews leaving a hole (8mm? down onto the actuator shaft, Putting oil (probably best to be gear oil) in their gets it onto the shaft on the inner side of the bearing bore and seal where most/all of the dryness/ corrosion/tightness exists. The inner end of the shaft gets splashed directly by the diff gears throwing oil about. Gear oil here and penetrating oil on the outside where the shaft disappears into the casing followed by much pushing & pulling is the way to go.

If this still doesn't free it up then the only answer is to open the end of the diff and withdraw the whole actuator shaft in it's mounting tube.
Garyd

1990 Transporter syncro camper
2 litre AGG 'GTi' engine

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Gary. »

:ok
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by garyd »

clift_d wrote: Pics or it didn't happen :D

I could sort out a pic but, if you know what the vacuum unit shaft looks like then your there. Replicate the end of that on an appropriate diameter steel shaft maybe 50mm long then fix a short (75mm?) cross bar to the other end to form a 'T'.

Engage this in the actuator shaft in place of the vacuum unit, using the same roll-pin and there you are.

Pic of vacuum unit here: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j ... 2203075991 where you'll see the cost of a new one and the reason for not using it to free up the actuator!!
Garyd

1990 Transporter syncro camper
2 litre AGG 'GTi' engine

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irishkeet
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by irishkeet »

here ya go

Image
garyd wrote:
clift_d wrote: Pics or it didn't happen :D

I could sort out a pic but, if you know what the vacuum unit shaft looks like then your there. Replicate the end of that on an appropriate diameter steel shaft maybe 50mm long then fix a short (75mm?) cross bar to the other end to form a 'T'.

Engage this in the actuator shaft in place of the vacuum unit, using the same roll-pin and there you are.

Pic of vacuum unit here: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j ... 2203075991 where you'll see the cost of a new one and the reason for not using it to free up the actuator!!

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Gary. »

This is the view I have at the moment:

Image

The end of the actuator inserts into the off-set hole, held in place with pin through side.

Then the very hard to access switch. I'm in need of a 22mm long barrel socket, can't get access with an open spanner. *correction: 23mm"

Image

Used a large syringe and pipe to get oil into the switch socket. Back and forth it went 10'000 times, but it is still stiff to push in!
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Reverend »

I need to do this to both my syncros (one is for sale), more pics would be even better :) I like the write up so far!
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Gary.
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Gary. »

The rear locker will still not engage on the vacuum system alone, so I will be looking at replacing/reconditioning the shaft mechanism.

Does anyone supply more suitable parts for re-instating a better system, less prone to corrosion? Any pointers to get the whole mechanism off in-situe?

Thanks
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by tforturton »

Both of mine decided to stop working sometime last year, when I wasn't looking. But seeing as I am not only not particularly mechanical, but also intrinsically lazy, I haven't done anything about it so far. This thread has revived my interest, but I have a question. If the actuators are available new, why not just replace the whole thing, instead of all this fiddling about? Or am I missing something?
1990 2.1 DJ Syncro Caravelle/Westfalia conversion RHD

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Winchweight »

Actuators are available new, but they are quite flimsy parts. And if the problem lies in the vacuum system or gearbox mechanism, then changing the actuator won't fix it.
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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by Gary. »

The actuator is as strong as an ox, it's the shaft the goes into the gearbox which is stiff. I think it's to do with corrosion as the collar appears to be aluminium. I just want to know if / how to pull the whole thing out!
Gary.

1990 Syncro doka (RHD), 1.6TD.

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Re: Help freeing up front and rear diff locks...

Post by silverbullet »

IIRC you can only remove the rod by dismantling the diff or transaxle.
Pretty sure that it is pinned to the diff locking fork.

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