Club 80-90 Forums

Ordered my NOS Rover bits. Two x 4-pot tachos and a full house of switches (6) All delivered for under 70 quid. Try doing that with VW!

Found a company stateside that makes speedo calibration boxes.
I think that I need a 37.5% reduction box to convert 1600 turns/mile into 1000/mile
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speed ... ____va.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Sent from my Atari 7800

A bit more progress today

Marked out and drilled the corners, allowed for the apertures to have returns to maintain some stiffness in the panel.
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... juvqwy.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The original ribs under the dash will need remaking. Its now a big hole:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... 6p5ifk.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Some very careful work with a very sharp knife (only to find the reinforcing steel insert in the rubber edging. Even more careful work with cutting disc...)
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... cjpfqv.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A couple of goes and it sits in quite well. Note the use of an old heater box and DIN radio cage to check for potential clashes:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... 0w3vom.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Tried it in the syncro, it seems to be doing mule duties at the moment.
Back to the future, its 1986!
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... jqsdph.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
One tiny snag. The brake pipe fouls the back of the speedo and the dash chassis. Only just, though...
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... pavz7b.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Sent from my Atari 7800

Looking good Ian

Thanks!
I think that I now have a rhd dash coming my way for the syncro, being as I have just cut a big hole in it for this side project...
Brake pipe tweaking tomorrow, if its dry out.

Sent from my Atari 7800

Well it couldnt be tighter! Here's looking under the dash at the brake master cylinder:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... rusnhn.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Through the screen it all looks ok, the tweaked brake pipe clears the metalwork but is up against the speedo and the ribbon connector: not good... (changing the warning lamp bulbs will be a laugh too, LED's will be a good idea here)
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... 5gbo0j.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Line of sight to the gauges is just about ok, it could be 10mm lower to get the 50-70 mph range clearly in view along with peak rpm, but othewise it's all good

PS this is with my prototype "pedal box angle/height adjuster" kit fitted which does drop the end of the master cylinder a touch, but the other recipient bus will get that any way.

Now, what was it that I needed to justify a 140 mph speedo again? Oh yes, 280 bhp...

Sent from my Atari 7800

My 10-way connector block for the Audi 90 type 85 dash arrived today from BW
So the next question: is there a plug that will connect to the T3 dash pod loom, to enable a plug n play swap? I am thinking with regard to syncroandy's Passat dash conversion...

Ich fahre einen Bulli. Ich hilfe mir selbst...meistens!

Anyone know if it's possible to use this Passat 3BG dash together with an AFN engine?

Italjohn wrote: ↑21 Nov 2020, 19:32 Anyone know if it's possible to use this Passat 3BG dash together with an AFN engine?

Try http://syncrosport.com

Regards Gary
 

Yep, you need a Canbus ECU though. Assuming your AFN is 80-pin (the majority are) you need the GA suffix ECU.

The 'upgrade kit' I sell includes a unit such as the one pictured, modified to get the fuel gauge to read the right way round, and an interface board to make connecting it up much easier than trying to splice the dash donor wiring pigtail to the T3 wiring. That dash panel is a version that can be tweaked to display 'distance-to-empty'.

Andy you'r the man.

I have got myself a VW Passast **919** cluster, and have got most of it to work togheter with my AAZ mechanical diesel engine.
I need some help with the tacho and charging. (Fuel gauge is corrected via eprom and is working)
I can't seem to get it to work when I connect the blue wire and the W wire to this cluster.
Any tip on how to carry on?

Is it an optical illusion?

It looks from here that you have blue in position 11 and green in position 9 or 10. (??)
Apologies if I need glasses...

Green for (W) rpm signal should be pin 9

And blue for charge light should be pin 10.

I have a -86 diesel https://www.vanagon.org/instrument-clus ... -explained

 Oil buzzer, Digital clock, Tachometer (CMBDT)
Very common. Typically 1986 - 1991. Horizontal connection. If you have an engine conversion and have a CMBDT layout you now have a CMDT layout (see above). This is due to your new conversion only having one oil sensor, not two like the original Waterboxer engine.

1. Instrument Lights
   
2. Hi Beam
   
3. Ground
   
4. BLANK
   
5. Clock
   
6. Coolant Temperature Gauge
   
7. Fuel Gauge
   
8. Ignition (main power when turned on)
   
9. Tachometer (W green)
   
10. Turn Signal Indicator
    
11. Alternator (Blue)
    
12. Dynamic Oil Pressure Buzzer - high - turns on (flashes and buzzes) when pressure drops below 15 PSI
    
13. Oil Pressure Indicator - low - turns on (steady light) when pressure drops below 2 - 5 PSI
    
14. OXS Indicator (oxygen sensor) - OR - Glow Plug if Diesel
    

Do I need to add the resistors on the backside of the cluster to make the charging work?
If anyone has a diagram that shows the inside of the Golf cluster, that would be really helpful.

Bump

Bump indeed. Here's a couple along these lines, two chapters of one story:

https://intrepidoverland.com/dash-redo-deluxe/

https://intrepidoverland.com/up-cocking-the-pit/

There's other blog entries with more features of the remodel, too.