Club 80-90 Forums

I have an issue with the ignition switch (new one on order) but it made me think about how to wire in a starter button.

I also read about remote start from the engine bay (which I may try until the new switch comes), and wondered whether there was an issue with normal running. When you turn the key the running circuit is broken until you release the key and it returns to that state. If you have the ignition switched on (in normal running state) and keep that open while initiating the solenoid and starter, is there any risk of a kick back from the alternator?

Which is where I was coming from before reading the above thread. If you install a button would it have to be double pole so that normal running state is normally closed and start is normally open, and when you press the states are reversed? Or could you just have one pole on the start cable (red/black)?


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I don't know the answer, but the experience I have had with starter buttons is it worked along side a functional ignition switch. Key to pos 2 and leave it there, push the button is just to replace turning the key to pos 3.
I must admit when he fitted it, I thought what a waste of time (but he liked the racing car look)

I was thinking if position 2 fed the switch, and then went out via the NC state, and fed the starter via the NO state, it would replicate what the switch does??


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So I got a double throw momentary illuminated switch from Uncle Jeff. Common fed by position 2 on the switch (running) NC feeding the position two lead and LED in switch, and NO feeding position 3 (Starter). Has a gentle illumination of the gear stick in the dark too.




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I'm a bit late to the party as you've already done it, but for your reassurance.......

When we got Vinnie he already had a starter button, apparently because the contacts on the start position on the ignition barrel had died, and rather than replace the ignition switch he just had a button spliced into the wiring.  I "upgraded" it to a big red illuminated "ENGINE START" button that's as close to an Aston Martin as I'll ever get!
It's a single pole momentary push to close, so just as yours.  Vinnie has been wired like this for at least 15 years and he's still on the original alternator and never had any battery or charging issues, so you should be fine.

Rob

tandemsandy wrote:apparently because the contacts on the start position on the ignition barrel had died, and rather than replace the ignition switch he just had a button spliced into the wiring

Exactly the reason I did although I have bought a new switch.

As I wired in the running/position 2 yellow/black line through the switch it has current going through it all the time it’s running. It did smell and feel a bit warm, but I wanted to have that momentary isolation on start up. So I’ll write in a relay too. I know it’s getting overly complicated but I like it


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Surely you just need a push-to-make switch between battery positive and the starter solenoid - a bit like one of these Sealey switches:

if it can handle the current then sure. It’s only for as long as it takes to start so not too much pressure.

I got an illuminated switch fed by the permanent ignition feed. Proved too much current flow for the switch over the period of a couple of hours. The leads had signs of overheating and I did smell that burning plastic pong.


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The size of switch wouldn’t matter if you just used a simple automotive relay  triggered by your switch to trigger the solenoid on the starter .

I agree - use a hard start relay.
Then you can use any momentary switch to operate the relay.

I have one too.

This works for me when I’m working alone, just wire it to the stud and spade on back of starter motor. No need to turn ignition key then. The leads on this one are a bit short to be honest but it does the job. Useful when you’re chasing spark issues.

Mocki wrote:The size of switch wouldn’t matter if you just used a simple automotive relay  triggered by your switch to trigger the solenoid on the starter .

Yes I put in a relay and it’s peachy now




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I think this is how I wired it up.


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