Club 80-90 Forums

Im attempting to fuse (ha!) together a part original VW Cruise Control unit and pump to a Subaru Forester stalk and a separate Subaru ON/OFF switch. So l need to know what the four wires on an original VW CC stalk do.
The original stalk incorporates an ON/OFF switch. These l believe are Nos 3&4 on the diagram below. Then there is Resume and Set. But l cant work out which is 1or 2?
If l had a CC stalk l could view wiring colours against this diagram from Bentley.

Regards
Stuart


Also what does this symbol ringed in pencil mean please?



Had a chat with some members on The Samba and got some good info.

On the VW CC stalk...
1, is pump hold
2, is Resume going to terminal six in control box
3, Set going to terminal two in control box
4, ON/OFF switch receiving 12 volts.
Bad news is a CC guru called Stacy does not recommend hybrid VW and Subaru mixture. The Subaru switches are notoriously unreliable. He may have some parts for sale. Waiting to hear.

Paging Baxter, come in Baxter.....



Lets see if the lad responds.. I'm following your CC exploits..

The pencil ringed number means the wire is going to a 4 pin terminal housing - but nothing is connected to it as the line is not continuing

I wonder if the unconnected 4 pin plug T4 was for increase and decrease speed function whilst in cruise (like the Subaru has) that wasn't implemented in production, but maybe could be using the subaru control switch

Thanks for the answers. Im working on the main Subaru CC ON/OFF switch at the moment. And have come to the conclusion the switch l sourced from eBay is faulty.
Both illuminations work. But only this light works via the six terminals. The CRUISE should illuminate too. Yet uncertain which one tells user CC is actually ON?

Doesn't the "cruise" text only light up when the lights are on, like dash lights?
I woulda assumed the small light would indicate if the CC is on or off?

WHS

The Subaru on off system switch for cruise control is a bit odd, I have a spare one here, vertical format from a 2003 Outback

without the wiring diagram to decipher it all I'd struggle to understand it, but in the Outback it just serves to arm the system and keep the memory of last setting alive, and the system resets every time the engine stops so wipes memory and it doesn't latch so to test continuity you'd have to hold it closed to check the functional connections, the two bulbs are fiddly to remove but once removed you should be able to figure out the wiring for the bulbs, the backlight bulb to illuminate the 'cruise' in mine is blown, but the red system on one works

The paddle switch on the steering wheel is the one that sets, resumes, increases and decreases speed and switches off, but when switched off or overridden the system remembers the previous set speed so if you resume it goes back to that speed, changing gear or braking also switches it off, again it remembers; only by switching the dash switch do you turn off the system and clear the memory

Okay and thanks to both for posting your views.

So illuminated CRUISE is a dash light. Whereas the ON/OFF is the small illumination.

I have taken it apart to view internals many times now. And, oh yes! Very fiddly indeed to rebuild. Getting that spring to stay put, the pin into a small plastic key lever and the body together while holding pressure on the fascia (with my dim eyes) is very testing.

However the switch when depressed does not possess a defined ON/OFF click. And powered up on terminals 5&6 the CC ON/OFF light stays illuminated all the time. Also the CRUISE bulb works.But not via terminals as already mentioned.

So l think it is ready for the bin.

For the record l thinks terminal pins 1-6 are
1, Brake switch
2, CRUISE illumination
3, 12 Volts ignition on
4, not certain
5, Switch on light going to/from CC box
6, Earth

Am l looking for another switch?

Regards
Stuart

I have a SA "Speedocruise" system stashed if anyone wants to have a go? Its fully adjustable, just needs new magnets for the speed pickup afaik as they dont seem to have any magnetism left. The vacuum actuator seems to be ok but needs a new cable.
Complete with original instructions!

as I say the dash switch doesn't latch (I have driven the car and used the system for many years), it just makes a momentary connection when pressed which arms (or disarms) the CC system, it must be the CC control unit that then turns the bulb on to tell you it is armed, and off if you press it when on, and the system also disarms when ignition feed is lost.
The cruise control unit once armed is controlled by the steering wheel switch, pressing down initially sets it to the speed you are doing, pressing down once a speed is set drops speed by 1.5mph, if you keep pressing it will slow down incrementally every second or so in 1.5mph increments, pressing up when set increases speed by 1.5mph and again it will continue to accelerate incrementally every second or so, pressing up when not set but having been previously set (and system not switched off) will resume at the speed previously set and pulling switch towards you will switch off set speed as will changing gear or pressing the brake pedal, if you press the accelerator when cruising with a speed set you will accelerate as normal but if you then release the accelerator will resume in cruise at the previous set speed. The logic of the Subaru CC control switch may not suit the simpler VW system.
So if you don't have a VW cruise stalk you'll need a simple switch to switch the system on and off, maybe with an indicator lamp
 

Okay and thanks to both for enlightening me.
This is on hold at present while we refurb flat after losing (not Covid related) our tenant back in Oct.
Needless to say new boiler now required at £2.5K fitted, with some new rads too. Also an electrical bill hitting £700 for the EICR updates.
And a house move (perhaps) on the near horizon too.

Thanks

maxstu wrote: ↑05 Feb 2021, 15:07 Okay and thanks to both for enlightening me.
This is on hold at present while we refurb flat after losing (not Covid related) our tenant back in Oct.
Needless to say new boiler now required at £2.5K fitted, with some new rads too. Also an electrical bill hitting £700 for the EICR updates.
And a house move (perhaps) on the near horizon too.

Thanks

That all sounds like an excuse to not progress your engine build!

 

Stesaw wrote: ↑05 Feb 2021, 15:24

maxstu wrote: ↑05 Feb 2021, 15:07 Okay and thanks to both for enlightening me.
This is on hold at present while we refurb flat after losing (not Covid related) our tenant back in Oct.
Needless to say new boiler now required at £2.5K fitted, with some new rads too. Also an electrical bill hitting £700 for the EICR updates.
And a house move (perhaps) on the near horizon too.

Thanks

That all sounds like an excuse to not progress your engine build!

 

Rumbled already!