Auto Electrician Recommendation

[dirtos3000]

Hello,

I’ve got an ongoing problem with the electrics on my 2.1i, automatic, T25 (1986) that causes the engine to overheat and cut out.

Anyhow, long story short; does anyone have a recommendation for a sh*t hot Auto Electrician (preferably London based)?

Many thanks in advance!
 

[maxstu]

London is a very big area. Narrow it down a bit. Add your location...or even better, why not become a full member?

Also try asking a few question on here first.
Engine overheats and cuts out? Are you saying the engine stops because it has overheated? Or this is two separate issues.

Here to help

[dirtos3000]

Hello Maxstu,

The engine cuts out because it overheats. It’s actually a reconditioned 2.1 injection, so, to all extents and purposes is ‘new’. 

This issue has been dogging me for a while now (18 months, 2 different garages and two engines..!). We’ve narrowed it down to electrics; something not clicking into place to cool the engine down. This is most noticeable when driving around town; circa 10-20mph for 30 mins or so. Engine starts coughing, backfiring and cuts out entirely at very low speed. Lots of fun when that happened in the Blackwall tunnel...!

I’m in north east London, garage in west London, so happy to cast a wide net in a bid to find a decent London based electrician.

I thought I already was a member..? Clearly not!

cheers



 

[Aidan]

I'd contact little Mick at EliteVW, he is a really good fault finder
Failing that Doug's VWwerks

[Stesaw]

Air flow meter probably? google vanagon syndrome. It's probably on the wiki as well.

[maxstu]

I suspect you have more than one issue. There are a host of reasons for poor running and overheating. But temp does play an important part for a smooth running DJ. Yet there are so many parts you need testing for proper running.

Temp gauge shows high temperature in heaving traffic? Fan kicks in at both stages during slow traffic? Temp drop back down again? Then fine. Otherwise could be an airlock in cooling system

Check idle switch on throttle body and throttle wide open switch.

Temp 2 sensor in thermostat housing meters pre-heater switch for crankcase breather. Collapsed breather pipe.
Air flow meter
Faulty ECU
Timing incorrect
Idle speed stabilizer faulty.
Air leak on injection side.
Worn throttle body.
Bad fuel
Even a dirty air filter could cause problems.

[dirtos3000]

Hello,

thanks for the above. 

Vanagon Syndrome sounds interesting..! Could be the issue, maybe.

 

[dirtos3000]

Hello,

thanks for the above. 

Vanagon Syndrome sounds interesting..! Could be the issue, maybe.

 

[davidoft1]

How does it run upto when it over heats and how quickly does it overheat? 5-10 minutes, how does it start hot and cold , does it over heat and cut out or overheat run rough and cut out

[maxstu]

Hello,

thanks for the above. 

Vanagon Syndrome sounds interesting..! Could be the issue, maybe.

 

Not sure this is your problem. Vanagon Syndrome often occurs under "normal" driving conditions. Everthing is cool (as in kool) and suddenly there is a loss of power. Even at motorway speeds. Engine just switches off. Sometimes starting immediately. Or needing a wait of 15-30 minutes before it will restart. No issues with overheating though.
Sort out the overheating issue first.

For months l chased an ongoing issue of engine regularly cutting out. Could have been Vanagon Syndrome. Not sure. It always restarted straightaway though. But with an Auto it was mentally painful to move the Auto lever to neutral while freewheeling to restart engine. Temp fine all the time. Engine healthy (according to a compression test) too.

In the end l gave in and handed it over to an Old Skool VW trained mechanic. Place in Broadstairs called Victoria VW. He removed the Idle Speed Stabiliser. Properly retimed engine. Sorted a weak spark plug thread. Tested all leads. And now it runs beautifully. That was in Oct 2018. Best £110 spent in yonks.

[Stesaw]

I mean if it's overheating does the rad get hot? have you tried bleeding the system, replace the thermostat?

I had to bodge the halo ring on mine because it had blocked up with rust from the left hand head connection, causing the pipe to split on me, that was fun. Defo need a new one of those as the ID of that pipe was a lot smaller than it should be due to all the corrosion, but back to the topic..

Maxstu has a DJ with all the EFI stuff so he defo has more experience than I with it! I'd check the stuff he has mentioned.
Check the wiki as well for all the bits on there. 

[maxstu]

I mean if it's overheating does the rad get hot? have you tried bleeding the system, replace the thermostat?

I had to bodge the halo ring on mine because it had blocked up with rust from the left hand head connection, causing the pipe to split on me, that was fun. Defo need a new one of those as the ID of that pipe was a lot smaller than it should be due to all the corrosion, but back to the topic..

Maxstu has a DJ with all the EFI stuff so he defo has more experience than I with it! I'd check the stuff he has mentioned.
Check the wiki as well for all the bits on there. 

Thanks matey.

Forgot to mention vacuum pipes must be absolutely leak free. Also squeaky clean earth cable in engine bay on left cylinder head.