Club 80-90 Forums

Hi All,

Our hazard lights, from the outside, just look like we're indicating left.

The right indicators work fine as indicators, but don't come on with the hazard light switch.

Is there any way of fixing this?

Thanks,
Damian

Faulty hazard light switch, you can take them apart and clean out the hardened grease should restore it.

Yep agree with BH ! It’s the switch or it’s connections

Are the switches easy to take out?

Is it a case of screwdriver underneath and a bit of a jiggle, or more to it than that?

Take binnacle cover off above speedo/clock. Unclip switch from behind and push out.

This switch is driving me mad!

Take it out - Works perfectly.

Put it back in, it's intermittent at best. Mostly back to just doing left indicators.

On the dashboard, when both red lights are alternating, then it's working, but most of the time, one, or the other, or neither of the lights are working.

Just taken the switch out completely and brought it inside for cleaning, but I think that the problem may be a connection in the block that the switch goes into, and the wires don't seem long enough for me to do much fiddling there, even if I did know how to get the bloody connectors out of the block (which I don't!)

Well. that was disappointing.

I took the switch apart and gave it a really good clean inside. There was quite a build up of grease, so I was hopeful that it would solve the problem.

Unfortunately, after putting it back, the problem is pretty much exactly the same. Not even a bit better.

So, I think that the problem is in the white block, at the back of the switch. If I push down on that white block, when the switch is in place, then it seems to help.

Wiggling the back of the individual wires, at the back of the white block, doesn't seem to make it easy for me to tell where the problem is, but I still think that the problem is in there.

Is it possible to remove the wires and connectors from that white block?

There doesn't seem to be enough room for me to be restripping wires, but maybe I could add a bit of solder to any connection that seems bad?

What do you guys think?

Is there room on either side of the white block you mention to do a continuity test with a multimeter in order to determine if there is a dry connection within the block between one or more of the wires.

I could put one end of my meter in the holes with the heads of the connections (that the switch fits into), but I don'y know where I'd put the other end of the meter?

I see or don't see what you mean, when you mentioned a block I thought it was a flexible item that the switch plugged into and could be accessed from either side wiring wise or is it a fixed item with no access at the back.  

Just went out to take some photographs.

This is the white block ...

Good pictures, I would do  continuity test with the meter on the white block checking each contact in turn ie the opposite end of each contact to ensure nothing has come loose in the block, maybe removing the switch has dislodged something inside the block, I am only surmising as this is the test I would do, if these are ok then the switch must be suspect, as I think was mentioned earlier. I would also clean all the contacts that the switch is connected to external of the block.  If this is ok, plug the switch back into the white block and check that the contacts are good and the connectors at the back of the white block have not been pushed out by the switch when back in place.

Piece of pee to remove the terminals, look at the end at the slot - there is a smaller slot, slip a fine screwdriver down the slot and depress the tang on the terminal which can then be withdrawn. To replace just raise the tang back up before insertion. Same principle on most connectors, some having two tangs, some more modern ones have locking plastic mechanisms though.

I'm trying to find the time, and brave the cold, to do some more work on this.

Will update when I do.

Success!

I went back to this today.

I removed every pin, from the white block, and all seemed sound.

After putting it all back together, I noticed that it all worked fine until the long sides of the switch were squeezed. I eliminated the block as the issue and decided to take the switch apart for a third time.

This final attempt and switch TLC seemed to have done the trick.

I now have a fully functioning hazzard light system again!

Thanks for the hand holding, through the process, everyone!