Screwing down new floor

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mariner
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Screwing down new floor

Post by mariner »

About to do this and just after some quick advice/reassurance. Going to lay strips of sound deadening in the troughs that run across the van and then use 12mm hardwood ply. I plan to drill then screw directly to the floor, avoiding the troughs and using the peaks. Thinking 15mm screws will suffice. Ideally I'd go through the screw holes of the previous floor and have kept the floor as a template, but I think this may be wishful thinking!

I will obviously check under the van myself but is anyone aware of potential areas of trouble - I obviously want to avoid screwing into anything other than the flooring of the van! I thinking that with the peaks and troughs running across the van and most things underneath running the length of the van, I should he okay as long as I stay screwing through the peaks.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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mrhutch
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by mrhutch »

how about bonding it to the "peaks" rather than peppering the floor with holes?

Sikaflex with a good weight on it overnight would suffice.
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Stesaw
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by Stesaw »

If you're gonna put holes in the floor make sure you treat the fresh metal. My floor was screwed into the body from leisuredrive so when I redid my interior I just resued the holes.
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keynsham1
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by keynsham1 »

I had a wooden floor panel that was pop riveted to the peaks of the floor. I have removed it now as I am refurbishing the van but I will put it back in the same way. It was fine for over 30 years after all!!

Also be careful regarding using sound deadening material. I have decided not to put any sound deadening or insulation in my van when I rebuild it. Even closed cell stuff can cause condensation. I prefer to leave the gaps so any water is never trapped and can drain or evaporate. The only exception will be the cab floor but that is easily removed if it gets damp. 

TBH I never though of my van as being particularly noisy anyway, It is full of cupboards, carpet and soft furnishings after all to act as a sound barrier!!

mariner
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by mariner »

Cheers all, useful stuff. Good point about the sound deadening although no reason for any water to gather under the floor I’d hope. Was thinking of just inch and half strips across every alternate point on the floor panel just to make every effort to keep noise down! Interested if anyone else has put any down on the floor panel?

Oh, and how did you locate the screw holes once the flooring was down Stesaw?? Pretty precise art I guess!
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1981 air-cooled 2.0 high top

Stesaw
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by Stesaw »

I covered my floor with thin closed cell foam and insulation tape on the joins and edges in the front and back. In the back I just plonked the floor back on over that.
If you are cautious about doing that due to water etc but want to put sound deadening in, just put strips of the stuff in the lower runs of the floor while leaving the top bare as that wont raise the floor level.

If you sound deaden your panels and doors it makes a massive difference in noise. At least in my van, before at 50 you'd have to shout to have a conversation with your passenger, now you can talk normally.

I found the screw holes in the floor when putting it back in because the wooden floor is a tight fit, plus the table stand is a good alignment tool as that is a big hole in the floor!
Last edited by Stesaw on 13 Jul 2021, 15:15, edited 1 time in total.
1985 LeisureDrive 2.1DJ 5 Speed syncro conversion project.
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Aidan
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Re: Screwing down new floor

Post by Aidan »

caravelles with carpet had sound deadening foam composite underlay material on the floor moulded to fit exactly about an inch thick in the troughs about 2/3"thick on the tops with the seat fittings in gaps direct to the floor with captive nuts underneath

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