Hi All, recently obtained a welder in preparation for lots of bodywork repair including the falling apart foot wells and ready to go but unsure of the stages when the bare metal is ready to be treated. I see there is WaxOyl, Por15, StoneChip shield etc but in your experience what is the tried and tested method
Many Thanks
BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
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BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
Club 80-90 Member 4966
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
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Re: BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
No replies yet? I’ll kick things off.
WaxOyl is applied inside sections such as chassis rails and sills to prevent rust. Vactan (from eBay) is usually seen as the best rust converter. Acid etch primer on exterior panels followed by top coat of your choice. I’ve a long way Togo before thinking about finish so must confess I’m pretty ignorant. I just use what’s to hand at present and plan to roller it when all is done.
Someone else may be along to offer more expert advice. Good luck and keep us updated with your repairs.
WaxOyl is applied inside sections such as chassis rails and sills to prevent rust. Vactan (from eBay) is usually seen as the best rust converter. Acid etch primer on exterior panels followed by top coat of your choice. I’ve a long way Togo before thinking about finish so must confess I’m pretty ignorant. I just use what’s to hand at present and plan to roller it when all is done.
Someone else may be along to offer more expert advice. Good luck and keep us updated with your repairs.
Have you ever seen an unhappy fool?
88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.
88 Transporter with hitop camper conversion, 1.6td.
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Re: BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
I wouldn't say tried and tested yet, but the paints I've been using when fixing my van over the last year (outside, in Scotland) are:
- electrox - zinc paint, comes in a spray can, has a similar effect to galvanising. Dries quick, and is my go to after finishing welding. I've left metal painted in just this for months in the rain and it's still not rusty.
- Epoxy primer - applied over electrox or direct to clean metal. Waterproof so doesn't need topcoating straight away. Hard wearing, generally used instead of etch primers these days. Can be brushed/rollered or sprayed, but is 2 part so less convenient than electrox. I use lechler, which does not contain isocyanates so is relatively safe to spray.
- Combicolor - it's OK as a top coat. Goes on nicely with a roller, can be thinned with white spirits and is relatively safe to spray. Takes a while to cure fully and is not as hard wearing as 2k paint.
- Colour basecoat and 2k clear. Dangerous to spray without proper ventilation/mask, but is hard wearing and fast drying.
Regarding waxoyl, I'd recommend the Dynax range of cavity waxes instead. But don't bother with cavity wax until you've finished welding as it's flammable.
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- electrox - zinc paint, comes in a spray can, has a similar effect to galvanising. Dries quick, and is my go to after finishing welding. I've left metal painted in just this for months in the rain and it's still not rusty.
- Epoxy primer - applied over electrox or direct to clean metal. Waterproof so doesn't need topcoating straight away. Hard wearing, generally used instead of etch primers these days. Can be brushed/rollered or sprayed, but is 2 part so less convenient than electrox. I use lechler, which does not contain isocyanates so is relatively safe to spray.
- Combicolor - it's OK as a top coat. Goes on nicely with a roller, can be thinned with white spirits and is relatively safe to spray. Takes a while to cure fully and is not as hard wearing as 2k paint.
- Colour basecoat and 2k clear. Dangerous to spray without proper ventilation/mask, but is hard wearing and fast drying.
Regarding waxoyl, I'd recommend the Dynax range of cavity waxes instead. But don't bother with cavity wax until you've finished welding as it's flammable.
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1987 T25 Caravelle EJ22
Re: BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
Brilliant, Many Thanks, very useful
Club 80-90 Member 4966
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
T25 Transporter 1984
2.0l CU Engine
- clift_d
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Re: BodyWork Repair - Shopping List
My understanding with Combicolor paint is that a lot of places don’t recommend that you overspray it, so if you decide to start out with this but then decide to respray later, you may find it all needs to come off first.
1988 LHD T25 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker Hightop syncro