Club 80-90 Forums

Hi all,

I am looking at getting the keys sorted as part of my overall van restoration.
I want proper VW keys for originality rather than the single random third-party brand key that I have at present.

I have checked the key numbers stamped on the lock assemblies, and it appears that the numbers match for the sliding door and tail gate.
But...
The current aftermarket key fits the cab doors' and the tail-gate locks, but not the sliding door lock.
It will not go into the barrel slot at all.

Now, I understand the standard key profile is an "N" profile.

Any idea if the early 1983 long handle sliding door lock / key is a different profile?

I have looked in the Wiki, but I could not find any info on the different key profiles for the doors, glove box and sliding door etc.

I think that I remember that the owners' manual shows four different shapes. But no real help otherwise.

Any info is gratefully received.

Thanks,
Rob

All are "N" profile 
oneof ours ( 1983) had a new sliding door barrel, we have the same issue, it did work , now it doesn’t , I haven’t got around to taking it apart , but I suspect one of the wafers has slipped or a spring has failed .

 

Thanks for that...

It just really puzzled me that the key refuses to go into the lock slot - as if the key is completely the wrong shape (looking from the end).

Here is an excerpt from the owners' manual.



I will remove the sliding door handle, and see if I can investigate it more closely.

I’ve never seen that page before ... 
 

It is from a scan of the '83 manual on
www.WestfaliaT3.info website

It appears to be a UK site, so should be relevant for my 1983 converted panel van. Or at least, so I would have thought.

If in doubt, remove the lock from one of the doors, they key code should be punched on the side

Hmmm, I only have key A and that does everything except the glove box lock. Same with my previous van and the van I used to borrow off my dad back in the eighties. Didn't even know there was any other types of key 

Do you not have a locking fools gold cap Bren ? 

937carrera wrote: ↑29 Jul 2020, 07:41 If in doubt, remove the lock from one of the doors, they key code should be punched on the side

I would have done that, but the alloy where the number should be stamped is heavily corroded, and lumpy.

Not an urgent issue really.
I have 37 years worth of corrosion and neglect to sort.
But these little distractions help clear your head when the rust seems never ending.

Still in the early stages of cutting out the passenger side door step and front arch, with 95% of the panels on the van needing attention.

Oh joy...

Mocki wrote: ↑29 Jul 2020, 10:44 Do you not have a locking fools gold cap Bren ? 

Yeah the key does that too, not sure if its a fools gold type though, its black plastic 

Key D safety locks are different they are a Yale type lock very rarely fitted and require a different handle as they are larger 

Yes, I have seen that lock for sale.
It isn't particularly any more expensive than a standard lock barrel.

So here is my situation.

The aftermarket N type key goes about 2/3rds the way in, and then stops.

The sprung flap makes it impossible to see the lock profile inside.

And if I dismantle the lock from the handle, then I know that I will get bits of metal and springs flying everywhere, as there is no key to prevent them from doing so.





I suppose, I could just get a new lock with keys, but nobody really wants to carry around a whole array of keys, when one would suffice... or at least it should do.

Mine are all Type A apart from the one for the petrol cap. I have to carry three of them around as they only work in certain doors and the ignition, been like that since Ive had the camper, so must have been changed several times in the past.

The fear of little springs and bits of metal flying everywhere is overstated in my opinion

Give it a go, having a clean work area also helps

I guess you are right -
and besides, what do I have to lose.?
It is buggered anyway.

UPDATE -
I managed to get the N type key almost fully in.
I think as suggested earlier, all the inards have moved or become dislodged.
I did see a piece of spring protruding out at one stage.

I then tried to undo the little screw that retains the lock in the barrel.

As usual, no chuffin' way was it going to budge.

I am thinking that maybe I need to start saving up for a complete lock set and stop messing about, flogging a dead horse. (That was my polite forum translation).