Spray paint issues

[T25Bluealloy]

Hi all,i hope someone can help me..

basically i am doing some work on my T25 and some rust repairs on the panels. i have removed the rust, filled, sanded, primed, sprayed and repeated the spraying 4 times, then sprayed with laquer, let it hardened for 24hrs then wet sanded with 400 progressing to 2000 paper, then did a final spray of the coat as recommended,then relaquared then used a compound and buffed it but i seem to be experiencing this problem below...is my method right or have I got it all completely wrong, as you can see i may have sanded back to much as you can start to see the filler....any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks alot!

spray paint problem

2017-04-05 13.21.23.gif (84.08 KiB) Viewed 3189 times

[xmarkx]

its ok till you start wet sanding with 400. 1500 then 3000 then compound. plus I don't know why you would clear it then paint again. You can flat back your clear coat, then reclear for a nicer finish but this isn't needed and wouldn't match the rest of your van.

[T25Bluealloy]

Hi xmarkx, thanks for the reply, so basically you would stop at the lacquer? my problem is that it seems very dull at that time and does not have a deep reflection like the rest of the van..I looked on the internet and saw people were wet sanding the lacquered coat to then use a compound to bring it to the deep shine..

[nsjtaylor]

After the clear-coat, unless you know what you're doing with wet-sanding, I'd recommend a good Dual Action polisher and some decent compound (like Chemical Guys). That should be more than you need to take the clear-coat to an excellent mirror-finish with a much lower risk of burning through the clear coat. Have a look on YouTube; Chemical Guys are a good place to start, they have pretty good videos on Detailing paintwork.

[T25Bluealloy]

After the clear-coat, unless you know what you're doing with wet-sanding, I'd recommend a good Dual Action polisher and some decent compound (like Chemical Guys). That should be more than you need to take the clear-coat to an excellent mirror-finish with a much lower risk of burning through the clear coat. Have a look on YouTube; Chemical Guys are a good place to start, they have pretty good videos on Detailing paintwork.

thanks nsjtaylor, i have a dual action polisher so i'll use that, the compound I'm using is Meguiars Ultimate Compound, i heard it was good but I'll have a look at the chemical guys ..thanks!

[xmarkx]

It sounds like your putting the clear on to dry. How many coats of clear are you putting on? You can get away with just 2 a grip coat then a wet coat. You know you have put enough on when you can see it shiny and this should do. Flatting with 1500 you shouldn't have a problem with cutting through use plenty of clean water with a bit a washing up liquid in. Then compound any will do I wouldn't go out and buy any more.

[multisi]

Throw away that 400 grit paper, . its way too coarse for final flatting. 1200 grit on lacquer.

[xmarkx]

Yeah 400 is not for wet flatting. You can start with 1200 but 1500 would be better you won't take it off as quick

[T25Bluealloy]

It sounds like your putting the clear on to dry. How many coats of clear are you putting on? You can get away with just 2 a grip coat then a wet coat. You know you have put enough on when you can see it shiny and this should do. Flatting with 1500 you shouldn't have a problem with cutting through use plenty of clean water with a bit a washing up liquid in. Then compound any will do I wouldn't go out and buy any more.

i'm waiting up to 24hrs before I apply the clear, is this too long then?

[xmarkx]

You can leave it 24 hour but you don't have. If its only a small patch your doing I would dry it off with a hot air gun what you use to strip paint in your house. If you keep it moving you will be fine. 10 minutes is enough if you haven't put the paint on to thick. Then put a quick coat of clear on and do the same. 10 minutes keep it moving then a wet coat of clear this is where you are looking for the shine. If its not shiny you haven't put enough on. Then again dry it off then leave it 24hours before you start wet sanding

[New Kentish Campers]

Hi all,i hope someone can help me..

basically i am doing some work on my T25 and some rust repairs on the panels. i have removed the rust, filled, sanded, primed, sprayed and repeated the spraying 4 times, then sprayed with laquer, let it hardened for 24hrs then wet sanded with 400 progressing to 2000 paper, then did a final spray of the coat as recommended,then relaquared then used a compound and buffed it but i seem to be experiencing this problem below...is my method right or have I got it all completely wrong, as you can see i may have sanded back to much as you can start to see the filler....any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks alot!

2017-04-05 13.21.23.gif

Flat it all back with p400, wet, with a little liquid soap, use a rubber rubbing down block, not your fingers. Remask, spot prime and re-flat any areas where you've busted through to filler etc, so you have a uniform surface, using p600 paper degrease the panel afterward.
Remask, apply your base coat colour so you have a uniform coloured surface. Any specs of dirt etc should be flatted with p800 and then apply 1 more base coat. The idea is that you don't touch the basecoat with an abrasive before you lacquer it. Remask if necessary ( because dried flatting residue risks being blown onto the surface you are painting) then apply I light coat of laquer, let that flash off and then one double coat. Allow to dry very thoroughly (10 hours next day) before you go anywhere near it because if it's soft you will bust through it again ( I'm assuming you are using an aIr dry product, not a 2k chemical hardener one) and then very lightly block flat it with p1200 or 1500 and plenty of soap. As you flat the surface, use the edge of the rubber block to squeegee the residue off so that you see what you are doing, to end up with flat matt surface,.
Then lightly cut the surface with a fine compound, like Farecla G3 white compound. You can use this by hand though a slow speed, foam headed mop will do it better. Take your time, don't allow the surface to get hot or you will risk spoiling it. Apply a decent wax product over the finished job and that's it.

[Titus A Duxass]

Flat it all back with p400, wet, with a little liquid soap, use a rubber rubbing down block, not your fingers. Remask, spot prime and re-flat any areas where you've busted through to filler etc, so you have a uniform surface, using p600 paper degrease the panel afterward.
Remask, apply your base coat colour so you have a uniform coloured surface. Any specs of dirt etc should be flatted with p800 and then apply 1 more base coat. The idea is that you don't touch the basecoat with an abrasive before you lacquer it. Remask if necessary ( because dried flatting residue risks being blown onto the surface you are painting) then apply I light coat of laquer, let that flash off and then one double coat. Allow to dry very thoroughly (10 hours next day) before you go anywhere near it because if it's soft you will bust through it again ( I'm assuming you are using an aIr dry product, not a 2k chemical hardener one) and then very lightly block flat it with p1200 or 1500 and plenty of soap. As you flat the surface, use the edge of the rubber block to squeegee the residue off so that you see what you are doing, to end up with flat matt surface,.
Then lightly cut the surface with a fine compound, like Farecla G3 white compound. You can use this by hand though a slow speed, foam headed mop will do it better. Take your time, don't allow the surface to get hot or you will risk spoiling it. Apply a decent wax product over the finished job and that's it.

Very informative, thank you for posting.

[T25Bluealloy]

Hi all,i hope someone can help me..

basically i am doing some work on my T25 and some rust repairs on the panels. i have removed the rust, filled, sanded, primed, sprayed and repeated the spraying 4 times, then sprayed with laquer, let it hardened for 24hrs then wet sanded with 400 progressing to 2000 paper, then did a final spray of the coat as recommended,then relaquared then used a compound and buffed it but i seem to be experiencing this problem below...is my method right or have I got it all completely wrong, as you can see i may have sanded back to much as you can start to see the filler....any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks alot!

2017-04-05 13.21.23.gif

Flat it all back with p400, wet, with a little liquid soap, use a rubber rubbing down block, not your fingers. Remask, spot prime and re-flat any areas where you've busted through to filler etc, so you have a uniform surface, using p600 paper degrease the panel afterward.
Remask, apply your base coat colour so you have a uniform coloured surface. Any specs of dirt etc should be flatted with p800 and then apply 1 more base coat. The idea is that you don't touch the basecoat with an abrasive before you lacquer it. Remask if necessary ( because dried flatting residue risks being blown onto the surface you are painting) then apply I light coat of laquer, let that flash off and then one double coat. Allow to dry very thoroughly (10 hours next day) before you go anywhere near it because if it's soft you will bust through it again ( I'm assuming you are using an aIr dry product, not a 2k chemical hardener one) and then very lightly block flat it with p1200 or 1500 and plenty of soap. As you flat the surface, use the edge of the rubber block to squeegee the residue off so that you see what you are doing, to end up with flat matt surface,.
Then lightly cut the surface with a fine compound, like Farecla G3 white compound. You can use this by hand though a slow speed, foam headed mop will do it better. Take your time, don't allow the surface to get hot or you will risk spoiling it. Apply a decent wax product over the finished job and that's it.

aha , trying this right now so thank you , I'll let you know how I get on ...thank you very much this has been a great help..