Surface rust... My plan

[crazyhorse]

Hi gang,

I am in need or some advice here.

I have some surface rust on the van, was planning on rollering in the summer, but need a temp barrier.

I have read the wiki, and the plan is to;

1. Clean area with wire brush

Question 1

Do I have to go back to bare metal or is a little surface rust OK.

2. Apply some Bit Hamber Hydrate 80

Do I need to do anything to protect it till the warmer months?? Red Oxide on top maybe??

Any advice would be ace and apologies if this has been covered on many many occasions

[Slider2]

I have a fair few rust patches - mostly at the seams.
In an effort to slow things down before more drastic metal slicing this summer I cleaned up a few areas to see how things survived with various levels of protection.

I used a wire wheel on a grinder to remove any loose rust as far as I could into the seams and give a solid surface. Some areas got a couple of coats of hydrate80 and some areas got a coating of rattlecan paint on top too.

Bizarrely the areas left in just h80 remain the matt black surface and don't look any worse.

The areas which had paint on top are starting to show a smattering of micro blisters.

In honesty it was probably not done at the best time of year and there was no doubt some moisture left in the rust pores before I h80'd it.

If you're looking for a temporary pause, I'd grind, dry and h80 it.
If you're looking for a long term base to paint I'd go to lengths to follow the instructions properly and ensure amongst other things the rust isn't just going to push through from the back of the seam etc and the surfaces are washed before coating, and the h80 has time to propely cure before being exposed to rain or even overnight damp.

G'luck

Ps I'm a big fan of Bilt Hamber - have used it with excellent results on my other restoration job so always recommend it..... When used correctly!

[crazyhorse]

I have a fair few rust patches - mostly at the seams.
In an effort to slow things down before more drastic metal slicing this summer I cleaned up a few areas to see how things survived with various levels of protection.

I used a wire wheel on a grinder to remove any loose rust as far as I could into the seams and give a solid surface. Some areas got a couple of coats of hydrate80 and some areas got a coating of rattlecan paint on top too.

Bizarrely the areas left in just h80 remain the matt black surface and don't look any worse.

The areas which had paint on top are starting to show a smattering of micro blisters.

In honesty it was probably not done at the best time of year and there was no doubt some moisture left in the rust pores before I h80'd it.

If you're looking for a temporary pause, I'd grind, dry and h80 it.
If you're looking for a long term base to paint I'd go to lengths to follow the instructions properly and ensure amongst other things the rust isn't just going to push through from the back of the seam etc and the surfaces are washed before coating, and the h80 has time to propely cure before being exposed to rain or even overnight damp.

G'luck

Ps I'm a big fan of Bilt Hamber - have used it with excellent results on my other restoration job so always recommend it..... When used correctly!

Much obliged,

will get cracking once the weather dries up a bit (whenever that may be)

[Plasticman]

i did send a reply via my phone but its dissapeared ?????
part what was said above but do not use a grinder , well not to grind, use a wire wheel with full face mask, also an industrial stanley knife to dig through the crap and then hit it with the hydrate as its better than vactan, remember rust is often pits in the surface and all a disc will do is remove surface metal and leave the pits alone, and in so doing the parent metal will be even thinner and then when further repairs are needed life gets difficult. which is why i and many other grit blast stuff or cut out and replace and even this cant be guaranteed
mm

[crazyhorse]

i did send a reply via my phone but its dissapeared ?????
part what was said above but do not use a grinder , well not to grind, use a wire wheel with full face mask, also an industrial stanley knife to dig through the crap and then hit it with the hydrate as its better than vactan, remember rust is often pits in the surface and all a disc will do is remove surface metal and leave the pits alone, and in so doing the parent metal will be even thinner and then when further repairs are needed life gets difficult. which is why i and many other grit blast stuff or cut out and replace and even this cant be guaranteed
mm

Thanks also.

Just as well really as I dont have a grinder, but have wire brush and wire wheel.

Front and back I presume and hydrate 80 on both sides.

Thanks

[Plasticman]

Yep

[restoman]

Is this the one you brought up to me to look at?
If so, then no offence, but it needs some new panels replaced before painting it..

[crazyhorse]

Is this the one you brought up to me to look at?
If so, then no offence, but it needs some new panels replaced before painting it..

No offence taken, just wanted to prolong the inevitable until you were ready to fit me in and do some work on the old boy.

[restoman]

ok