T-Cut

[ghost123uk]

From other threads =

T cut has ammonia in so I wouldn't use it on fresh 2k paint.

And

old red can T-Cut....... but I think T-cut has changed its formula nowadays.

I have got a Litre of the old red bottle T-Cut here (bought unopened from a car boot sale on Sunday for 20p).
Paint is 6+ months old by now. Is it OK to use it in my ongoing quest to remove over-spray, (or best not ?)



p.s. = Overspray left on vehicle after "that" bodyshop had it, but lets not get into that again now.

[Jakemate]

G3 cutting compound should get it off fine

[ghost123uk]

G3 cutting compound should get it off fine

Does that mean best not to use the old style "red bottle" type T-Cut I already have ?

[Jakemate]

I wouldn't as it's probably petroleum based, cutting compound is a gentle abrasive for paint if you go for g6 (finer) or g3 (rougher) it will get your over spray off for sure and not damage new paint if you get it on it.

[ghost123uk]

OK, ta for the input, I was thinking now the paint was 6+ months old it might be OK, but from what you say, I won't risk it.

I will buy some cutting compound as you suggest

I have done some of the less "important" areas with some P1800 wet and dry, with water with some car shampoo in it. That seemed to work ok. It left the paint feeling smooth and glossy. I then clay-bared it, then waxed it with "Poorboys Natty's wax". The results look good to my eye, but I am hesitant to use that method on the main panels.

[itchyfeet]

20p

[New Kentish Campers]

I have done some of the less "important" areas with some P1800 wet and dry, with water with some car shampoo in it. That seemed to work ok. It left the paint feeling smooth and glossy. I then clay-bared it, then waxed it with "Poorboys Natty's wax". The results look good to my eye, but I am hesitant to use that method on the main panels.

John, I take it that this is the van you had a little grief with a while back? If you have overspray on adjacent panels and the like, dont worry too much as the paint - 2k presumably - will be well and truly cured by now.In fact, so hard that cutting it by hand will be bliddy hard graft!

Buy yourself a 3m or similar rubber hand rubbing down block, some P1200/1500 grit wet and dry paper and tackle it accordingly, with some washing up liquid to help 'slip' Keep away from any edges or you risk busting through and from time to time, remove the paper and use the block as a squeegee across the area treated to see what you have. You should have a nice, flat surface, perhaps with a degree of 'orange-peel' which is fine. [You could use 800/1000 grit too, but it is a little more risky to break into undercoats, but of course faster]Then apply some Farecla G3 to cut the paint, moving up to the next grade for a final finish. I use an varible speed electric mop, fitted with a solid foam head. There are a few foam densities to choose from, like red, for aggresive cutting, then white, and onto black [I think thats correct, but the paint factor can advise you for sure] And dont use a high speed one, or you do risk damaging the paint film.

Apply the compounds with a mist of water, remember you are using a mains 240v mop from a house plant watering bottle for example, and machine the surface for a high gloss, without resorting to wax though of course, do apply some right at the end of the processto preserve it.

And I'd advise your masking adjacent rubbers, blackwork,etc as the compound waste will stain it

Good luck, and take your time

[jimpainter]

I'm with the g3 route, flatting with fine wet and dry would work ok but it all depends on how much paint has been put on, if it's not much you will risk burning through and then you know what that means

You should be able to hire a variable speed polisher just take it slow, keep the panels/paint cool and take your time. Your welcome to call over to try/borrow mine for a bit.

Jim

[Plasticman]

if its on reveals then i would shy away from a block as this will do the high spots and cut through and do notyhing for the lows, paper in hand and go carefully. likewise power mops ,.......if youve not used them much or ever thern i would stay away or get someone that has
mm

[ghost123uk]

Cheers folks

I think I will stick with the very fine wet and dry using my hand, then some G3 by hand, then the PoorBoy wax. I don't trust myself with a power mop never having used one.

[Jakemate]

Don't forget bit of washing up liquid with the water when wet n drying, think it was mentioned

[sweller]

I wouldn't waste my time with T Cut to remove overspray. Farecla G3 is the stuff to use.

[Plasticman]

Oh really? That's usefull to know, tell me how do you determine the degre of overspray so as to know what to use to remove it,take the op,s case ,what did you think when you saw the van
mm