Running the Rust Race

Thin bits of metal and bright blue light. Including glass & trim.

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Spailpin Fanach
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Joined: 06 Sep 2020, 08:32
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Location: Dublin, Ireland 🇮🇪
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Running the Rust Race

Post by Spailpin Fanach »

I recently bought a 1989 Westy and noticing slight signs of rust around the seams. They're very faint and I can rub them off. The rest of the van is on great nick though. I currently store in an open car park but moving to an underground dry car park from next week onwards.

Any advice about handling the rust and not letting it win? ImageImage

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1989 VW T25 1.6TD JX Westfalia California poptop with 5 gears. 


There are two types of people in this world:
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Robsey
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Joined: 19 May 2012, 20:45
80-90 Mem No: 11137
Location: East Manchester

Re: Running the Rust Race

Post by Robsey »

Hmmm - time to be the bearer of bad news.

If rust is showing on the outside, it is likely to be pretty bad further inside.

You could clean out the exterior seam as far as you can, and then try and feed in some phosphoric acid or other rust converter fluid into the exposed seam.

Hopefully capillary action will draw the converter fluid further into the seam.

This will be better in a dry parking area, as the seam will be drier to start with, so the rust converter will be sucked in better.

Allow to do it's magic for as long as you can. Leave for a few days or weeks, possibly applying / feeding in more converter as you go.

A few days after applying the last dose, clean up the exposed area,
Apply etch-primer,
Leave for a day or so.. no point rushing.
And finally your top coats of paint.

Obviously flatting back between coats to ensure a smoother, better final finish.

After a week or so, to allow time for the paint to harden,
Finally apply a good wax polish to seal the paint and keep out the baddies.

Hopefully this should protect the finish of the van for a few years, but it will not be a permanent fix if rust is hidden / present within the seam.

The only thorough / permanent repair would be replacing any rot with good metal.
It all depends on how long you plan to keep the van.
Last edited by Robsey on 18 Oct 2020, 10:44, edited 1 time in total.
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF.
Soon to have a whizzy DJ.

Spailpin Fanach
Posts: 8
Joined: 06 Sep 2020, 08:32
80-90 Mem No: 17276
Location: Dublin, Ireland 🇮🇪
Contact:

Re: Running the Rust Race

Post by Spailpin Fanach »

Thanks for this, Robsey. Very useful. I intend to keep van for several years so prepared to invest. However, I spent a lot in buying and importing to Ireland and a bit short of change at the moment. I'll do what you suggest and wait for a year or so to see what happens. 

Just a thing? What final coat paint should I use. It's an original 1989 Westy California. I guess paint must have faded a bit in 30 years plus. What should I ask for and where would I order? 

Thanks again. 

 

1989 VW T25 1.6TD JX Westfalia California poptop with 5 gears. 


There are two types of people in this world:
1. Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data

User avatar
Robsey
Posts: 111
Joined: 19 May 2012, 20:45
80-90 Mem No: 11137
Location: East Manchester

Re: Running the Rust Race

Post by Robsey »

There is a white sticker on the underside of the dash on the driver's side (UK RHD).

On this sticker will be a code four characters long.
This will be the code for the paint colour.

Often two letters, a number and a letter.
Mine is LH5G which is Medium Blue.

Try looking in the Wiki - it is a great resource.
Full of information.

-------------------------------

Where to order?

With the correct code, you can order online.
But watch out for German suppliers - they can be very expensive... and so can carriage costs.

Or
You could take your rear oil filler flap to any local paint supplier. They should be able to get a reasonable match.
1983 Tin Top with a poorly DF.
Soon to have a whizzy DJ.

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