Rust sealer and filler choice's

[SurfT25]

Advice needed on these articles.
Got bus last year so am a novice.
After reading the wiki and comments ( great help and advice on here) I bought waxoyl to treat and protect the metal , I was to expose, from rust. Started on LHS vertical seam between door and pillar only the did I read what it said on the tin,basically for underside and inside work not body parts to be painted.
Rushed out and managed to get some primer etch primer, so ok for now
Question is though what rust cure/protection and what filler to use.
Advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Thanks for reading
Peter

[GreenBlood]

What did you do? Just grind the seam out?

[dirtbox]

Hi Im also interested in replies.
I have bought Fertan to use as it was recommended by a friend.
I am led to believe that you need to get rid of all rust so wash down, sand off as much as poss, then use rust remover (I bought this to use https://www.fertan.co.uk/?product=fedogel ) to make sure there is nothing left, then filler, sand back and get primer on, then paint. 
But I am also learning this at mo so would love to hear from the experts who have already dealt with their rust etc
thanks
simon

[GreenBlood]

I bought a phosphorus acid converter from Germany called Optimal Ferrucid, I have rust around a rear window, I plan on using hydrochloric acid to remove rust, the wash it off, then use the Phosphate Acid to convert any rust not removed to ... whatever it converts to. Then to prime, filler prime, sand then over paint with any paint I have to hand. At some stage I will repaint to match, but for now, I just want to remove rust and prevent it getting worse.
i have bigger fish to fry, many panels to replace and various sill repairs too.
steve

[SurfT25]

Thank you for your replies.
I only used the drill with a small flat wire brush to get at the rust. I noticed the depth too but thought it's normal.
After searching for rust on the pages found that Vactan was suggested to be a popular curer/ preventer in the club. Waiting for delivery off fleabay.
Hi Green blood
You mention "filler prime" in your reply is this a make of filler. Excuse the question, havent bought filler in years, just used what was in the shed for bike or car. These jobs have more importance and pride, want the best for our bus
Thank you too dirt box, have made a note of your suggestion and would also like what our experts have to say
Cheers
Peter

[GreenBlood]

Filler prime paint is just a thick sandable sprayon filler that also primes. A few coats to build the level up, sand down so all level.

[937carrera]

I have had good results from Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80, it's a non acidic rust converter that creates a paintable barrier.

Not used it on body panels yet, though and don't recall seeing it mentioned on here before.

[matteo]

It's good that you're tackling the seams sooner rather than later SurfT25.

I use a dremel tool with a small grinder attachment to work on seams - you can be realy precise.
My preferred rust treatment/stabiliser is Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 - same as 937carrera recommends. I've found it to be effective in the long term.

 

[SurfT25]

Bilt Hamber 80 noted.
Thank you 937carrera and Matteo
For your replies

[BigAitch]

I posted a similar question a couple of weeks ago and had a couple of very helpful responses.

I may've been a bit hasty going for the Bilt Hamber Hydrate, apparently the Vatcan has advantages, but having done quite a lot more reading both are great products.

Primer filler, in my experience, is great at the former but really only good for 'filling' scratches. Anything more than that and a true filler is needed.

Seam sealer is another product I have used in the past, once all the priming and prep is done, right into both sides of any seams. It will seal any gaps, prevent water ingress and can take top coat to hide it.