Brake drums

[TONYT25T25]

MOT soon, so getting a few things done in advance, brakes working ok but have not inspected rear brake shoes and drums for several years so intend to have a look.  Seen a few vids and topics in preparation, but due to the uneven ground/surface I have to work on, I can only do one side at a time.  IE jacking up nearside cleaning adjusting etc, then other side.  Is this a problem due to balancing of hand brake cable.  Also does the diff become a problem when rotating each wheel to test for binding of shoes when adjusting or does it only come into affect when in gear.  Thanks in advance.

[maxstu]

Not really an issue. Select neutral first.
Adjusting the shoes through the hole in the backing plate is simple enough. Click down star wheel with a small screwdriver until wheel locks. Then release a couple of clicks or to where the wheel turns without binding. Same for both sides.
Handbrake cable not affected, to a degree. The rear brakes are self adjusting. But cable can get stretched. It only needs adjustment if not holding after five or six clicks on the handbrake ratchet. The adjustment bar has a habit of rusting then breaking when you try to release locking nut. Lubricate generously a few days before.
Taking drums off completely is another can of worms.
Diff not affected.
Good luck

[TONYT25T25]

Thanks, intend to take drums off, as last time I was in that area was several years ago when I changed the slave cylinders, so want to clear up any debris and check the area and lubricate, hopefully the drums will come off with a bit of encouragement. Another reason is occasionally I hear a creaking noise from the area after applying the handbrake making me think adjustment is required also.

[maxstu]

I havent been in that area for a few years. But l do recall marking the drums and back plate will help with assembly. The drums and shoes wear in an oval pattern. Putting drums back on in a different position can cause a pulsating feeling on brake pedal.
However contradiction the above, lf you put drum back with grub screw aligned with hole then not a problem.

[TONYT25T25]

Good point, didn't consider that idea, worth doing, anything to make it easier on reassembly. 

[RogerT]

The drums and shoes wear in an oval pattern.

How does that happen? Surely the shoes sweep the entire braking surface evenly?

I too got the pulsing, not sure if it started after taking it all apart, but I’m pretty sure I used the locating screw again.

[maxstu]

The drums and shoes wear in an oval pattern.

How does that happen? Surely the shoes sweep the entire braking surface evenly?

Not so. The shoes are activated through a pivot point at the top only. Through the brake cylinder. So it opens like a plump heart shape.

[Stesaw]

I wonder if they do self adjust. When I took my left side drum off it was quite mucky in there, I doubt that would help the springs do their job. Plus the adjuster was stuck.

[RogerT]

Sure MaxStu, but the drum rotates smoothly and evenly, meaning the drum gets swept evenly by the shoes as the drum rotates?

[RogerT]

I wonder if they do self adjust. When I took my left side drum off it was quite mucky in there, I doubt that would help the springs do their job. Plus the adjuster was stuck.

The adjusters “probably “ self adjust if they are well maintained. And not full of 30+years of gunk

[Oldiebut goodie]

The drums and shoes wear in an oval pattern. Putting drums back on in a different position can cause a pulsating feeling on brake pedal.

Err.... the drums do not wear in an oval pattern, impossible.
The easiest way to get them oval is to overheat them, have done that with a shoe stuck on.

[maxstu]

The drums and shoes wear in an oval pattern. Putting drums back on in a different position can cause a pulsating feeling on brake pedal.

Err.... the drums do not wear in an oval pattern, impossible.
The easiest way to get them oval is to overheat them, have done that with a shoe stuck on.

So they do oval. What else would cause a pulsating brake pedal?
Perhaps l should have said its the shoes that wear unevenly instead. If you have a fixed point at the bottom and a brake cylinder at the top pushing outwards, it will cause uneven wear.

[SurfT25]

I am in the process of replacing rubbers for both rear arms and have removed one of the drums.
I wished I had seen this before doing so.
I agree with both parties as to what maxstu and oldiebut goodie are negotiating.
No grubscrew on my drum so have 5 positions to try to get drum back on correctly.
Drums do wear in a complete circle but which location of the 5 is dead center that won't create pulsing ?
Wish I had a grubscrew
Will mark drum and stud when pulsing stops.
Braking was always pulsing before, understand why now, this discution has been very helpful

[maxstu]

Well, l always accept OBG sagacity without doubt.
Yet from my own experiences this is exactly what happened to me on my first camper. Took off the rear drums for a bit of maintenance. Then put drums back on without lining up retaining bolts. Partly because they had snapped off heads. And secondly rotating the drum to find easiest spot to slide back on was the easiest option. Nothing replaced. Just a cleaning and gease.
Got the pulsating rear brakes the first time l drove. So whipped them off and spent time aligning up retainers with hub. No issues afterwards.
The drums lve seen have two offset retaining screw bolt holes. So best you reset how you found them.



Bedtime reading for you...

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[TONYT25T25]

Update.  Did the offside brake drum today, several hours of fiddling about.  Brake drum bolts put up a bit of resistance but managed to get them off without rounding them.  Brake drum removed quite easily with gentle taps from a rubber hammer.  Slave cylinder was leaking (rubber dust cover full of fluid) no external visibility of this outside the drum so glad I took them off for a check.  Been losing fluid for a while so suspected this area as a possibility.  Ordered two slave cylinders from GSF and collected within an hour, bought two in case other side needs changing.  Lot of fiddling about to get cylinder swopped but eventually on.  Hopefully blead ok as tube popped off blead nipple and sprayed the area.  Few questions.

1.  Found it difficult to adjust the brake via the nurled wheel nob aperture at the back, any recommended tool for this, short screw driver tried but unsure if it was making contact with the wheel adjuster.  So took drum off again and tightened the wheel adjuster this way.  Drum back on and slight rubbing noise.  Handbrake on and drum/wheel would not move so ok there.  Tried footbrake but as working by myself difficulty to test even with a stick against the pedal, drum still rotated. I would have thought that this would prevent the wheel/drum from turning.

Any tips/observations welcome.