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Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 12:39
by johnwayne
Jim San wrote: 05 Apr 2021, 08:57
johnwayne wrote: 05 Apr 2021, 08:47
maxstu wrote: 04 Apr 2021, 14:14 Sorry. I cant help any more at the moment. Easter Sunday lunch to cook.
But l think the alternator bit is least of your worries right now. The thrown belt stopped waterpump working. Have you checked the waterpump hasnt seized?

Thanks for your help, hope you had a good day!

The cog for the water pump seems to be turning so hopefully not seized?
Does it feel smooth when you rotate it?   (check both pulleys rotate easily and smoothly)

What did the belt look like? was it shredded or did it look curly - like it had been melted


Shredded, definitely not melted.

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 12:45
by johnwayne
Mocki wrote: 05 Apr 2021, 10:57 Sounds to me like the water pump is the issue , just from how it reads ... 

but red lights mean STOP! immediately, not eventually! 

 The flashing red light in the temp gauge has two functions ....
 1. If the gauge is above 3/4 and it's flashing it means over heating 
 2. If the gauge is below 3/4 and it's flashing , it means low coolant in the header tank. 
  
 If it's says low coolant , and you can see the header tank is full to the brim ( not the number plate flap top up tank) then it's an electrical issue , and simple fault diagnostics will need to be employed ! 
  
 Red flashing coolant light self tests when you switch the ignition on and then goes off ......
  
 The system is very simple....
 The headertank ( the one in the engine bay ) should always be full to the brim, and the top up tank ( behind the number plate flap) should be full to the max mark when cold. When the engine is up to normal running temp the coolant expands and is pushed into the top up tank, when the engine cools down the coolant is sucked back into the header tank

Just to clarify, by header tank you mean what I have called the expansion tank - which is cracked?

The gauge was indicating empty and flashing. 

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 13:28
by Jim San
johnwayne wrote: 06 Apr 2021, 12:45
Mocki wrote: 05 Apr 2021, 10:57 Sounds to me like the water pump is the issue , just from how it reads ... 

but red lights mean STOP! immediately, not eventually! 

 The flashing red light in the temp gauge has two functions ....
 1. If the gauge is above 3/4 and it's flashing it means over heating 
 2. If the gauge is below 3/4 and it's flashing , it means low coolant in the header tank. 
  
 If it's says low coolant , and you can see the header tank is full to the brim ( not the number plate flap top up tank) then it's an electrical issue , and simple fault diagnostics will need to be employed ! 
  
 Red flashing coolant light self tests when you switch the ignition on and then goes off ......
  
 The system is very simple....
 The headertank ( the one in the engine bay ) should always be full to the brim, and the top up tank ( behind the number plate flap) should be full to the max mark when cold. When the engine is up to normal running temp the coolant expands and is pushed into the top up tank, when the engine cools down the coolant is sucked back into the header tank

Just to clarify, by header tank you mean what I have called the expansion tank - which is cracked?

The gauge was indicating empty and flashing. 
No - What Mocki is calling the Header Tank, you are calling the top up tank - This is the main tank and should be full (and not cracked! - get a new one).   The other tank is behind the number plate flap (the overflow or expansion tank).

Put up a photo of the Header Tank - and the top (Dalek).  
Check the sensor on the top of the tank - mine had a PPoor connection (in fact, still has) and lit up the  dash when it shouldn't.

It may be you have a couple of issues here - the big hint being the seller saying "it always does that".  

 

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 15:20
by TONYT25T25
Header Tank, dependant on vehicle type and engine may have different pipework and location within engine bay

Image


Top Up tank normally found behind the rear number plate.

Image

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 20:46
by johnwayne
Yes, we did mean the same thing. Apologies for knowledge level, still trying to get into this.

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 06 Apr 2021, 21:02
by maxstu
You have done the OFFICIAL Vanagon coolant cap test too...

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=va ... RC&PC=SMSM

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 07 Apr 2021, 07:44
by johnwayne
Haha! Got a whole new header tank on the way, with cap.

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 07 Apr 2021, 07:58
by maxstu
Good un, innit? Check new cap too. There are a few duds in circulation

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 16:47
by johnwayne
Here’s the current tank

ImageImage

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 20:02
by johnwayne
So, a bit of progress today. Fitted the new belt and refilled the coolant system according to the procedure in the Haynes manual (when having a steep bit on the driveway comes in handy). Coolant light no longer stays on and everything runs OK...except the oil pressure light and alarm still come on after a minute or two of driving  :roll: Oil level is fine, is there anything else that alarm is trying to tell me?

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 20:16
by TONYT25T25
Before somebody comes in with more technical advice, does the oil level on the dipstick move after engine has run, also presume the oil pressure light and ignition light come on before starting and then go off when engine is running.  Just done a bit of research on line but may not apply to you but added for comments from others if it applies with regards to oil pressure.

"Please Note: T25s from 1985 onward are fitted with two switches – one behind the water pump and the other between the pushrod tubes. Please check the colour and pressure rating of your switch before ordering"

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 20:32
by Mocki
The DoPs (Dynamic Oil Pressure System ) is not a oil level warning ⚠️ it’s telling you that you have low oil pressure 
If it’s working correctly it will start shouting once you Rev above 2000rpm .

Normal advice is to get the oil pressure checked before driving it .

however, as you have just experienced a water pump belt issue, where the belt shredded , I would suggest you maybe have a disconnected or damaged wire where it connects to the pressure switch , just behind the water pump pulley . You are looking for a brown wire with a right angled spade connector on, which may or may not be connected to the pressure switch .it’s common for the belt to whip it off or damage it if it shreds 



 

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 20:43
by R0B
Just so you know. That hose clip is not needed on the cap. Maybe change the hose as well.



johnwayne wrote: 08 Apr 2021, 16:47 Here’s the current tank

ImageImage

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 08 Apr 2021, 21:01
by johnwayne
Mocki wrote: 08 Apr 2021, 20:32 The DoPs (Dynamic Oil Pressure System ) is not a oil level warning ⚠️ it’s telling you that you have low oil pressure 
If it’s working correctly it will start shouting once you Rev above 2000rpm .

Normal advice is to get the oil pressure checked before driving it .

however, as you have just experienced a water pump belt issue, where the belt shredded , I would suggest you maybe have a disconnected or damaged wire where it connects to the pressure switch , just behind the water pump pulley . You are looking for a brown wire with a right angled spade connector on, which may or may not be connected to the pressure switch .it’s common for the belt to whip it off or damage it if it shreds 
I might be just be feeling a little too optimistic, but this suggestion best fits the scenario of what happened. Will be out there at first light looking for that wire.
 

Re: Alternator belt issues

Posted: 09 Apr 2021, 09:59
by johnwayne
Ok, maybe not first light...

Just checked and  YES! it's the disconnected wire to the oil pressure switch. Can you please advise where this should be attached?

E D I T: No worries, I've looked it up - goes between crank shaft and water pump pulleys, black, grey or white switch.