Rear brake pulsing

[zoona]

Hi

I have an odd problem, and wanted to get some advice.

We had a rear bearing that needed replacing. Took it to local place after ordering the parts from brickwerks (so no random dodgy parts were used).

These were replaced on both sides.

When the brakes were tested after that (it is the law that every time to touch the brakes, they need to be officially tested apparently) there was a pulsing sensation (similar to warped brakes) from the rear. Very noticable when driving, really unpleasant.

Suggestion was to replace the rear brakes as they were pretty old anyway.
Did that, and it was the same.


In discussion with the garage, it has been suggested to replace the bearing housing. While the inner bearing face was good, the rear face where it meets the suspension arm was very corroded. (they did tell me about this at the time)


I have used this garage a few times, and while they are not VW specialists, they do deal with classics and they run a Dokka as their works van - so they do know them.
I have always been very happy with them, and they will always to take the time to talk through the problems with me - this is not a case of "just replace then next bit and see if it works"

Two questions:

1. Does this sound like the sensible next step, or do you have any other suggestions first?
   
2. Do you know where I can get rear bearing housings from? Everywhere seems to be out of stock...
   

[maxstu]

Hi Ian, hope you are well?

Only the shoes replaced? If so, the drums may have worn oval shape mirroring the old shoes. New shoes. New drums. Otherwise lm not certain. Someone else with more knowledge will likely help you.

As for rear bearing, was there much play in rear wheel? If so on which plane? Clockface check 9-3, 12-6 or whole wheel in and out? There is alway a small bit of play. It is designed so.

Regards
Stuart

[maxstu]

Rear bearing housing. Used. Try Irishkeet, Mick NWVW, Bene or Davidoft. But not particularly in that order.

[zoona]

Hi

Not sure about play, but I could hear and feel it. And mechanic and I test drove and he confirmed what i thought.

Replaced shoes and drums. Twice...

Only logical thing now is that face between the bearing housing and the suspension arm, as it was corroded.
The main problem is that labour costs here mean it is more sensible to replace everything (the housing, the stub Axel, the hub etc), than find out later that it all needs to come off again to replace another part.
Finding difficult to get parts though...

[zoona]

Rear bearing housing. Used. Try Irishkeet, Mick NWVW, Bene or Davidoft. But not particularly in that order.

Thanks. Trying to avoid second hand at the moment... Just to eliminate problems. All comes down to crazy labour costs...

[keynsham1]

Did you replace the drums? I replaced mine once as a matter of course even though the originals were not badly worn and still serviceable. I bought new drums from JK and I had the same issue. Turned out the brand new ones weren't round! I just put the old ones back with new shoes and it has been fine ever since! Aftermarket parts are a gamble. If they are cheap, there is a reason!!!

[zoona]

Did you replace the drums? I replaced mine once as a matter of course even though the originals were not badly worn and still serviceable. I bought new drums from JK and I had the same issue. Turned out the brand new ones weren't round! I just put the old ones back with new shoes and it has been fine ever since! Aftermarket parts are a gamble. If they are cheap, there is a reason!!!

Yeah, replaced both. And tried old ones again.
Pretty sure it is the bearing replacement that was the problem.

Parts were from brickwerks, so going to be about as good as you can get.

[maxstu]

Did you replace the drums? I replaced mine once as a matter of course even though the originals were not badly worn and still serviceable. I bought new drums from JK and I had the same issue. Turned out the brand new ones weren't round! I just put the old ones back with new shoes and it has been fine ever since! Aftermarket parts are a gamble. If they are cheap, there is a reason!!!

Yeah, replaced both. And tried old ones again.
Pretty sure it is the bearing replacement that was the problem.

Parts were from brickwerks, so going to be about as good as you can get.

For the pair...

https://burleymotorsports.net/product/b ... g-housing/

[zoona]

For the pair...

https://burleymotorsports.net/product/b ... g-housing/

Ooh. Good find. Thanks very much for that.

[maxstu]

If you have family or friends' in US then import tax may be dismissed. Or take a chance getting posted direct.

Consider hub complete with bearing included. Then use Jed's (Campervanculture) video guide to hub exchange. DIY job.

Bon Chance!

[zoona]

I have been searching since the last post to get hold of some.

Burley are not responding to emails or phone
Campervanculture said they would get them in december, but don't seem to have got them yet.

I contacted the manufacturer of the ones that campervanculture use and found a supplier in Germany who have them in stock.

https://tk-carparts.de/radlagergehaeuse ... 51501253_1

I would normally wait for Campervanculture to get them as they have always been very helpful, but I just can't wait any more and I am not sure I trust delivery from the UK at the moment (my in-laws wanted to send something to us and the post office refused to take it as they couldn't guarantee that it would actually make it. Take back control...)

Anyway, if you need some - they apparently have some. Let's see if I can get them in time to fit for the test...

[maxstu]

Good bit of info, Ian.

They seem reasonably priced. That includes bearings too by looks of photos.

Good luck and happy new year matey.

[zoona]

I still have this problem, and really need some guidance.

To summarise:

• Bearings were dead in one rear corner
  
• Also noticed a very slight brake pulsing on the test drive with the garage
  
• Garage replaced bearings (brickwerks)
  
• Pulsing was really bad
  
• I changed shoes and drums (brickwerks)
  
• Pulsing was the same
  
• Garage changed shoes and drums (brickerks)
  
• Pulsing was the same
  
• Garage replaced rear bearing housings and bearings (Same ones that brickwerks and campervanculture have i think - but ordered from elsewhere)
  
• Pulsing was the same
  
• Now replaced stub axles, hubs, backing plate (all from vw heritage)
  
• Pulsing. Still. The. Same...
  

When I say pulsing, this is not just a little tickle, it is quite strong and has been measured properly. I think to pass the test here it has to be no more than 3% surge in braking force - it is showing as 30% - so way over.


So now everything has been replaced on each rear corner and we still have the problem.
The garage as checked the run out on the hubs and they are fine.


What else could be wrong?
- Could it be the original drums/shoes were worn and I have been unlucky to have to new sets that are out of round? (the reason I just bought new ones and didn't get them checked was because the labour to check them is more than a new set) But perhaps that is the next step.
- Could there be something further back in the braking system that is causing the pulsing? Booster, proportioning valve?
- is there anything else that can be checked?

At the moment it is due for it's MOT equivalent on 3rd Feb and if we can't sort this, it will not pass. It is costing a bloody fortune to sort out and I am no closer to a resolution.

Any guidance you can give me will be greatly appreciated...

[Oldiebut goodie]

Don't know your engine but my thoughts would be a vacuum leak on the servo.

[tobydog]

The garage as checked the run out on the hubs and they are fine.


What else could be wrong?
- Could it be the original drums/shoes were worn and I have been unlucky to have to new sets that are out of round? (the reason I just bought new ones and didn't get them checked was because the labour to check them is more than a new set)

I wonder if it would be possible to bolt the drums on "inside out" and get a clock (dti) set up to check the run-out.....