Collant change advice

[937carrera]

2, my drive has a small slope, say a 300mm rise over 8m, which end of the van should i put the top of the drive?

I have read and was going to try and use the Baxter way.

So that's 150mm over the length of the van meaning that even if you park "downhill" the bleed on the rad is still higher than anywhere else on the engine.

Gravity is your friend and it's pressure above ambient that forces the air out.

If you are going to be filling multiple times do it both ways

[itchyfeet]

Opinions are offered, it's entirely up to the reader to choose which route to take.

Ahh so you are entertaining that you could be wrong now

My take on it is:

MrB and VW want the job done on the day, in fact in the hour, they can't afford to have to top up the next day

So they have their methods to do it, VW is probably all about health and safety of their staff and not taking the cap off when heating up, Mr. B takes his own risks, raising one end makes the tiny bubbles stuck to the pipe walls travel faster to the highest point.

If you can wait and top up next day the exact process is not important.

[Pinkythelabrat]

This ‘drain from multiple locations’ lark - doesn’t your van already do that itself? Onto the road?

I jest of course but I just spent 20 minutes looking for a water jacket drain bolt on the underside of my van which the manual claims is the proper way of doing it. I can’t reconcile this picture with any part of the van at all!




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[Pinkythelabrat]

This ‘drain from multiple locations’ lark - doesn’t your van already do that itself? Onto the road?

I jest of course but I just spent 20 minutes looking for a water jacket drain bolt on the underside of my van which the manual claims is the proper way of doing it. I can’t reconcile this picture with any part of the van at all!




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[itchyfeet]

This ‘drain from multiple locations’ lark - doesn’t your van already do that itself? Onto the road?

I jest of course but I just spent 20 minutes looking for a water jacket drain bolt on the underside of my van which the manual claims is the proper way of doing it. I can’t reconcile this picture with any part of the van at all!




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If you have a wbx they are under the push rod covers and between pushrods. Don't bother too much effort just flush it out with a hose pipe but you need to flush both water jackets on both sides and the front to back coolant pipes and rad so need to take off a number of hoses to achieve that.

[HansT]

When running the engine up to warm (as suggested above) remember to set the heater controls to hot, so that the heater matrix flushes.
If you live in a hard water area suggest you use deionised water to dilute the coolant of your choice.
I parked our van nose up our slightly sloping drive. A few turns of PTFE plumbers tape made a tight fit on a four pint milk bottle (with hole cut in base) 'screwed' into the header tank. (Quick and dirty replacement for a Libby bong.)
A thin plastic tube from a kitchen spray pushed into a clean washing up liquid bottle will allow you to top up the radiator through the bleed screw hole (once you have topped up and replaced header tank cap).
H

[Holty]

Thanks for all the reply's and info