Starting and idle problems carb

[Mooney]

Hi,

So van was running fine for about a month no problem, probably covered 200 miles in that time.

Driving it one day and it cuts out mid drive. Struggles to restart but goes again. When I next go to start it, it cranks but nothing happens.

Check engine bay and fuel pump is super hot, maybe 70-100 c. Replaced with another pump I had on hand and no dice.

Waited a day for it to cool down and it would start and idle for about 3 secs before cutting out. After that it wouldn't idle and would only stay on if my foot was on the accelerator doing maybe 1-2k revs after 5secs plus of cranking to get it going. Replaced mechanical pump with electric pump, going by covkids guide and no dice.

Fuel starvation is not the problem, checked spark plugs and according to a mixture chart is pretty lean so increased it. This time it idled for about 15 secs and cut out. Been tinkering with it but no longer idles at any point.

Carb is new model brosol, replacing the pierberg 2e3. All new pipes and hoses so dont think that's the issue.

Running out of ideas now and have a trip next month I was hoping to take in it. Any advice before I throw in the towel and call a mechanic?

Thanks in advance

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[kevtherev]

So let me get this straight.
It will start and run as long as your foot is on the accelerator (i.e. pumping it.)?

If you remove the duct off the carb and put your hand over it (creating a seal) get an operative to crank it a few times, does it try to start, or try when your hand is removed?
Alternatively tried the neat fuel tipped in the carb trick.
If it tries to start then it's the idle circuit thats the issue.
Pierburg has two circuits idle and main.
Even though it's new something is blocking fuel for the idle.

[Mooney]

It will start with my foot on the accelerator after excessive cranking 5+ seconds

At work at the moment but will try when I get home.

When you say idle and main circuit are you referring to the jets and saying something might be clogging those? Is it likely as I've only had this carb 6ish months and with all new filters and fuel tank too?

Have already tried pouring fuel into carb bowl and it instantly steams/evaporates within a couple of seconds.

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[Mooney]

And by foot on accelerator I meant constantly depressed to some extent to get 1/2 k revs if I let it off for a second even going down a road at 40mph itll cut the engine

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[diabolov]

Hi Mooney,

Take the pancake cover off the top of the carbatooter and remove the idle jet, I'm sure it's the only one you can unscrew
from the top (on a pierburg). Make sure you have a good fitting flat blade screwdriver so you don't break the jet.

Once out blow through and look up the middle to make sure you can see light through the centre, replace and then try.

symptoms, sounds like a blocked idle jet, as it will run once off idle and main kicks in but won't start without your foot
on the accelerator.

My symptoms started on a run where it would cut out at junctions or when I slowed down to stop ( come of main or main/idle onto idle).
I could restart but had to keep the revs up to keep it running.

Regards

M

[Ralf85]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. The van started fine from cold but when it warmed up it stalled. It turned out that the vacuum hoses attached to my Solex carb were perished. They looked ok but were not. I bought some replacement hose, cut it into the four pieces needed and hey presto problem solved.

I suggest that you try this option first. The hose costs a couple of quid and it is one less problem to worry about, going forward.

Let us know how you get on.

[937carrera]

I had a similar issue with my Weber - blocked jets

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=165352

[T25Convert]

As an alternative could be the idle cut off getting stuck in the off position. Your symptoms sound about right, and assuming you have nice new clean carb and clean filter might be more likely than a blocked jet.

I've been through a few repro carbs on various vehicles, and the new valves have been rubbish on all of them - they lack the pull of the old ones and don't seem to pull square, so they get stuck on the side of the bore.

Easy to check, with the ignition on, just take the lead on and off the idle cut-off valve, you should hear a good 'click' every time you put it on. If not, it doesn't work! If it is this, you may find that just taking the valve off and putting it back on gets it working for a little while....

[Mooney]

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions guys, going to visit it tomorrow (limped it to the gfs house) and run through all these. Hopefully will be back on the road soon.

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[Mocki]

Are you sure it’s not fuel starvation ? It has all the symptoms
If it were a gen peirburgh I would say clean the inlet filter , I’m not sure the copy ones have them ?

Also check you don’t have a damaged or disconnected brake vacuum pipe , for that will also give you the same symptoms of it cutting out with out throttle assistance

[Mooney]

Ok update:

With pancake off off carb and hand off/on it doesnt try to start, cranks fine but nothing else.

I disconnected the fuel inlet and cranked and got plenty of fuel straight away, healthy spurts of it.

I refused my pierberg fuel filter in the inlet and its clean.

Haven't removed idle jet yet but on to do list.

Idle cut off works, can hear the click.

All vac hoses were replaced recently, same with brake vacuum hoses, and all air parts of system.

After this I went searching through the forums. So I'm getting air, fuel and compression. Tested for spark which was very intermittent.

Replaced ignition module with a spare I had and performed the hall sensor test with the king lead and wire in the middle pin test and it sparked! Pretty sure it's a dodgy hall sensor which is intermittent. I've ordered a new dizzy as I cant be bothered taking the current one apart so fingers crossed that solves my problems!


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[Mooney]

And thanks for the suggestions everyone! This forum is such a great source for troubleshooting

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[Mooney]

Update, replaced distributor and tested for spark. No spark. Was getting intermittent spark off king lead to engine ground every 2 or so seconds, weak orange spark.

I tested the voltage on the positive and negative posts on ignition coil and 0 volts.

Checking the resistance with the coil fully disconnected got me 7.82 on 20k ohms setting. I think this means 7800 ohms. Mines an early dg so according to brickwerks it should be 3200 ohm max

https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/brickwerks ... ion-coils/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is my problem with the earths? I've replaced ignition control unit.

Since I'm getting 0 volts with coil plugged in and key in ignition, as well as key out is this an earth issue, wiring in general?

Any help greatly appreciated.

My thoughts at the moment is to replace earths and get new coil?

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[937carrera]

Since I'm getting 0 volts with coil plugged in and key in ignition, as well as key out is this an earth issue, wiring in general?

It's the test method. To test voltage the +ve lead to terminal 15 on the ignition coil needs to be disconnected. You put the red probe onto the wire and the black to a good earth.

Can you recheck and post both the coil resistances:

Primary circuit, between 15 / +ve and 1 / -ve
Secondary, between 16/ +ve and the king pin connection

Make sure the plug onto the ignition amplifier and dizzy are properly in place, and by all means make sure the earth (brown cable) from the ignition amplifier is in good shape.

[Mooney]

Ok van started!! Timing is definitely out but I can adjust that. Still not sure if I need a new coil. Tested the resistance and they seem way out of spec.

With everything unplugged:

Primary: 3.4 ohms on 200 setting of multimeter

Secondary: 7.95 on 20k ohms setting

Apparently I should be getting for early dg engine according to brickwerks:

Primary: .52 to .76

Secondary: 2.4k to 3.5k

Is this likely the reason for cutting out a lot?

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