Club 80-90 Forums

usually just the gasket but curil t instructions say both sides
your choice all sides is better but probably not needed.

Snowmark wrote:

looks quite dirty inside that bell housing is that oil or clutch dust?

I think it’s just dust - therefore, I’m guessing, clutch dust?
If so, I’ll just order the new one. I’ll check when I get down there on monday


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After an afternoon yesterday of setting the end float on the flywheel I’m now ready to put the DJ into the van. I’ve taken an extra day off on Monday - just a couple of questions before I attempt it

Do you put any grease between the casing and the bell housing when it goes back together?
Any tips for fitting the spigot shaft bearing into the case?
Many thanks


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Just a smear on the shaft. Not too much, it will attract dust otherwise.

Offer up the engine and turn the front pulley to rotate the engine, it drop in if it’s aligned. Don’t force it, just keep checking the alignment, vertically and horizontally.

Oh, don’t over tighten those long bolts between engine and gearbox. It’s only aluminium, aye. From memory, 20-25Nm torque.

30Nm

and remember the earth goes via the gearbox bracket and via the bellhousing to starter motor so worth making sure the mating surface and bolts to the starter are cleaned and add a little vaseline.

as said just a smear of grease on input shaft and a little on the fork when thrust bearing fits/touches is good. Don't forget to tie the clutch arm up to stop the thrust bearing coming off as you fit it.

After a successful (I think) day of torquing and tightening, it’s actually in the van.





Slight error in first fit when the bottom studs didn’t appear through the bell housing- the engine had shorter studs having been used with an auto box and I hadn’t checked. Luckily, all studs came out ok and I swapped and refitted.

My next question - if the engine is sitting correctly should there be a slight gap underneath between the mating faces? The top is tight up against the bell housing but there seems to be a 2mm gap visible from underneath. It was getting dark and cold so I could be mistaken - it all seemed to go together well, just concerned it’s not actually aligned.


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Well done

there is a step in the bell housing and probably what you can see

Thanks Paul - I’ll sleep better now!
Roll on Thursday when I’ll attempt to plumb it in and fire it up!


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check the clutch works before going further!!!

Not sure what you knowledge is but hope this helps:

Connect all the 12V feeds.

Leave king lead off dizzy, and make sure you have oil pressure first.

Check you have spark.

Drop 10ml fuel in carb Venturi to save fuel pump pulling up fuel when it’s ready to fire. Or disconnect fuel pipe to fuel pump inlet and turn engine until fuel comes out then reconnect.

Give it a go.

Set timing.

Good Luck!

Please assume that my knowledge is absolutely zero......

‘Check you have oil pressure’ - how might I go about such a thing?

Thanks for the advice- it’s much appreciated as I stumble blindly through this


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oil pressure light goes out but thats not saying much as its 0.25 bar switch.

We discussed borrowing my wet guage screws in low pressure switch hole but you said you wanted to get it going first.

Successful day - having double and triple checked every join and clip and junction I was brave enough to turn the key.......it only went and started!



I had a video to post but can’t work out how.

It sounds great (once the tappets had quietened down). Much quieter than the old DG and the Speedshop exhaust sounds much better.
Slight disappointment that there is an oil leak from the oil pump cover. Could just be that I didn’t tighten one of the nuts on the cover.
Ran the engine for about 40minutes, set the timing, bleed the system etc and it was running really sweetly- it made me smile....a lot.

I’ve learnt a huge amount from the whole process of removing the old one and fitting this one. Went into it with very little knowledge, and, with some excellent local help, have got to this stage - very pleased (and, ‘thanks’ again, Paul).

Next stage is to rebuild the rear brakes, refit rear suspension, get it back on 4 wheels then I can post to let you know what difference (if any) going from a DG to a DJ makes. And then, sometime in the future, get my head around the fuel injection system and take it off the carb - there’ll be lots more questions!!


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Well done, could the oil leak be from pulley and running down?

Just goes to show that all it takes is wanting to do work yourself and you can, the rest is just learning and we can all learn if we want to.