Gearbox issues

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sunworshipper64
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Gearbox issues

Post by sunworshipper64 »

Hi guys
I have a 1.9 water cooled T25 1985.5 speed box dogleg. Been having issues since pretty much when I bought it.
Had a brickwerks linkage put on it and seemed to work out but had an issue in 2nd gear. 3rd was ‘iffy’ but engaged.
Recently I’m now only getting 1st sometimes with a bit of persuasion 2nd double declutching as usual 3rd rarely 4th and 5th fine. So been using 2nd 4th onwards. Reverse is fine. 1st seems to be a little better.
Anyway on starting to strip down my gearbox before I disconnected gear linkage from side of gearbox there was some play. So without running engine and shafts disconnected I changed the gears manually on the side of the box and every gear engaged. I don’t want to take out my gearbox if it doesn’t have to come out. Read up on a cable linkage for the 5 speed. Anyone had it fitted etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated

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silverbullet
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by silverbullet »

Is the linkage actually set up correctly? A common mistake is having the rod either too short or too long, which causes jumping out of gear and/or vague engagement, but it sounds like the middle clamp (which determines the overall length of the shift rod as well as the gear selection gate) may be loose.
Its visible at the rear of the fuel tank.

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sunworshipper64
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by sunworshipper64 »

Actually that’s a good point. My van had the brickwerks linkage fitted at absolute vw in castle donington. Took it back a couple of weeks ago and when up on the ramp we engaged first gear and at the front the linkage was butted up to the box and the rear end it was at the end of adjustment. I’m wondering if I adjust the mid link it could make a difference. I’m just going on the fact I take it to professionals they know what they are doing.
Don’t get me wrong I’m halfway to taking my gearbox out BUT I’ve encountered a couple of issues that tell me it may not actually be the gearbox. I can select gears doing it without linkage on the side of the gearbox. When I engage them they click in and stay in each gear. And also the play in the knuckle at the gearbox entrance. It’s only possibly a couple of mm. now u mention the mid link. I need to put shafts back on and have a mess around.
Cheers so much for that

sunworshipper64
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by sunworshipper64 »

Ok so after taking driveshafts off and on disconnecting gear linkage I found play at the knuckle at the side of the gearbox, a little excessive to me so went for a bike ride and a few beers deep in thought and a couple of convos and decided to put it back together but tightening up the linkage to take up play. It’s now 85% betteralthough I still have to double the clutch in 2nd. I’m a happy bunny

clarence
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by clarence »

Hi guys,
My 1.9dg 1985 t25 lefthand drive westy, got stuck in gear a month ago, it’s now on my driveway,
I’ve managed to change the Nylon blocks in the gear select box,as in Covkids photo/video,
But now as everything is back together the gear shift won’t select any gears, apparently I need to place a spacer in the selector box to set things up, How thick does this spacer need to be,
Is this a 2 person job, to set this up ?
All help greatly appreciated.regards C
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jebiga41
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by jebiga41 »

spacer is meant to be 23,mm thick as stated in the bentley procedure is loosen middle clamp make sure gear lever is in neutral and cup/ slector lever at box end is verttical place 23mm spacer on left (if looking from the front ) of the tab double check everything is in neutral position tighten clamp if memory serves me correctly. However it is very tricky to get right and I have had mixed success with this method another is to get a bungy and hold the gearstick in the 3-4 plane which i was recently told about and may work better also when changing the tabs you should change all the bushes in the linkage as otherwise it will still have play and slop.
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itchyfeet
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by itchyfeet »

23mm adjustment dim is a 4 speed

jebiga41 wrote:spacer is meant to be 23,mm thick as stated in the bentley procedure is loosen middle clamp make sure gear lever is in neutral and cup/ slector lever at box end is verttical place 23mm spacer on left (if looking from the front ) of the tab double check everything is in neutral position tighten clamp if memory serves me correctly. However it is very tricky to get right and I have had mixed success with this method another is to get a bungy and hold the gearstick in the 3-4 plane which i was recently told about and may work better also when changing the tabs you should change all the bushes in the linkage as otherwise it will still have play and slop.
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Aidan
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by Aidan »

5 speed gearbox
simple 2 person set up, one person underneath, one person holding gearstick

1. loosen clamp in middle of linkage rods
2. set and hold gearstick in central position so that the gearstick downward facing fork guide tips underneath the floor are in the middle of the blocks in both planes, ie front to back and astride the blocks side to side, you can adjust the length of the whole thing with the middle joint clamp loose
3. push ball into gearbox till it stops, i.e. if you push further you are pushing against the spring in the gearbox. ball in central position i.e. in neutral
4. lock off pinch bolt and the gears will be in the correct place

the above assumes that the gearstick nylon guides are in decent condition as are the aluminium blocks the guides interface with below the gearstick and the front and rear bushes the shafts pass through are in good condition, the UJ isn't sloppy due to wear in pin holes or the trunnion, the gearstick pivot swivel is in good condition and the gearstick isn't falling through the floor and the cup and ball at the gearbox are properly mated (the cup is as high as it can be, plate holding rear bush to gearbox allows for adjustment) cup isn't full of crud but is clean with a little bit of lube in there, the ball isn't splitting due to rust on the steel part and riding up the steel arm so the steel is poking out the bottom of the ball, and the skirt on the boot covering the cup and ball is properly pulled down over the cup like you'd want your teenage daughter's dress to be when she leaves the house on a night out

This also assumes that correct linkage parts are fitted for the engine type, as is the gearbox front mount, i.e. if you have an inline 4 petrol engine fitted the diesel rear linkage parts and diesel gearbox mount are fitted not just wbx petrol linkage parts bent to fit or a wbx engine mount and or some other bodge regardless of how many people say 'I just bent it to make it work' on FB

4 speed the conditions apply (but guides under the gearstick are different) and simple method for 1 person is loosen clamp bolt, move gearstick side to side in neutral plane then loosely bungy it over to the 3rd 4th plane, ie to the right, and lock off pinch bolt. On a 4 speed gearbox the spring inside the box should fully push the selector shaft ball out of the gearbox towards the outside of the vehicle, if you find you can push the ball into the box by 7mm without any resistance then whoever rebuilt the box missed a part out, in which case pull the ball fully out and hold it there whilst locking off the central pinch bolt again ball in central position, ie in neutral

simples
Last edited by Aidan on 08 Dec 2018, 08:30, edited 1 time in total.

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itchyfeet
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by itchyfeet »

:ok

somebody wiki that please
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freckvan1
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by freckvan1 »

:ok
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mshaw1980
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Re: Gearbox issues

Post by mshaw1980 »

Will use this to get my gearchanges perfect.
1987 VW T25: Subaru EJ20 using RJES parts (If it was meant to go fast it wouldn't be brick shaped!)

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