Hi Guys
help or guidance required from any DG guru if possible please?
I've just done an engine swap on the van.
Like for like, old unit out, new unit it.
The engine that I bought, was a good running motor, although it had been sat on a workshop shelf for around18-24months.
The old engine was removed, and the new engine put in to place.
The relevant ancillaries were connected (Alt, belt, manifold, carb, etc) plus all of the original coolant pipes etc reconnected to the new engine (These were all left in situ, when the old block was taken out)
New service items fitted.
Plugs
HT leads
Dizzy cap
rotor arm
Turned it over, and it was a bit slow, so fitted a brand new good quality starter, and brand new battery
Turned it over, and nothing!... a bit of puffing, and back firing, but no starting!
Checked the spark, on all 4 cylinders... all good!
Checked the fuel supply... all good, also changed the inline fuel filter, for a new one!
Turned the engine over by hand, to check the TDC and timing, and there is plenty of compression, you can feel it.
I'm scratching my head now?... What else could it be?
Got ignition, got spark, got fuel...It won't even start on easy start!
I can only assume that it's timing related?... or is there something obvious that I've missed?
There are that few electrical wires, I'm 99.9% sure they are all in the correct positions.
It's starting to drive me a bit nuts now... Is the gear on to the crank, that drives the dizzy a common fault on these engines? I don't really want to split the case, only as a last resort... But I'm getting a bit paranoid that this could be the issue?
Or is it something glaringly obvious, and simple that I've overlooked? (Please, please be the latter!)
Any advice greatly appreciated.
DG Engine... Will not start!
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- marlinowner
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Re: DG Engine... Will not start!
Could be that the timing is 180deg out, as the engine rotates twice for each rotor arm rotation. Try swooping the HT leads over on the distributor cap.
That's swopping...
That's swopping...
1993 SA VW T25/T3 2.5i Microbus/homebrew camper
1981/1968 Marlin Kitcar TR6 Engine
1981/1968 Marlin Kitcar TR6 Engine
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Re: DG Engine... Will not start!
I've checked and double checked the leads are correct... But I'll give it a try.
I understand what you mean about the timing possibly being 180 degrees out, but I'd had that thought already, and rotated the dizzy 180 to see what happened?
Exactly as I thought.. Lot's of popping and whizzing when I tried to start it.
I think the dizzy is in the correct position, but I'll try it again.
Thanks for the reply
I understand what you mean about the timing possibly being 180 degrees out, but I'd had that thought already, and rotated the dizzy 180 to see what happened?
Exactly as I thought.. Lot's of popping and whizzing when I tried to start it.
I think the dizzy is in the correct position, but I'll try it again.
Thanks for the reply
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Re: DG Engine... Will not start!
I had a similar issue with an engine swap. turned out to be dizzy 180 deg. out.
Maybe have a look in here for suggestions: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 0&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It sounds like a timing issue, but are you able to borrow the coil and dizzy off another working van to check?
Maybe have a look in here for suggestions: http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... 0&start=30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It sounds like a timing issue, but are you able to borrow the coil and dizzy off another working van to check?
1984 Voltswagen 25 Pop-Top (No idea what type!?) 1.9 W/C Petrol based in Guernsey, C.I.
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Re: DG Engine... Will not start!
You can take the plug out of 1 to feel that the compression matches with rotar arm pointing to the right lead.
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1988 1.9 DG
- itchyfeet
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Re: DG Engine... Will not start!
Dizzy drive gear has 12 teeth so can be fitted in 12 positions, it may be 180 out, a common mistake but it may also be 150 out, you can never just swap a dizzy without going back to basics and doing an initial setting.
Get compression on no1 with the spark plugs out finger on hole method, timing mark should be uppermost on pulley.
If you can't feel compression go around again clockwise.
then put cap on dizzy and mark on dizzy base where no1 lead is.
then cap off , slacken pinch bolt and rotate base until rotor arm points at mark you made for no1 lead, note the rotor arm won't move you are moving the body in relation to arm.
thats roughly timed.
If it works come back and let us know
Get compression on no1 with the spark plugs out finger on hole method, timing mark should be uppermost on pulley.
If you can't feel compression go around again clockwise.
then put cap on dizzy and mark on dizzy base where no1 lead is.
then cap off , slacken pinch bolt and rotate base until rotor arm points at mark you made for no1 lead, note the rotor arm won't move you are moving the body in relation to arm.
thats roughly timed.
If it works come back and let us know