More buzzer of doom questions

[pandkh]

Hi

I also have buzzer of doom problems. Mine will predictably come on as I slow at the first roundabout after a long stretch cruising at 65mph on a dual carriageway or motorway. After the roundabout it's usually fine, and it won't typically come on again once off the fast road and the speed slows (and therefore the temp).

I have read the wiki and the other posts but I would like a second opinion on my conclusions.

I do not think this is an electrical fault. I can predict when it will come on, ie it comes on under certain conditions. It never comes on randomly or unexpectedly. It comes on when the revs dip after a long cruise, so its the low rpm/ low pressure switch that is being triggered. Blip the throttle will turn it off, momentarily. The oil is going to be hot, and therefore thin.

My van has done just over 100K miles, so it's seen some action. But generally I would say the engine is in good condition. Although it was laid up for 7 years before I had it, I have had it for three and maintained it well. Oil change every 3000 miles. Filter every 6000. It's due oil and filter change in 500 miles. It's a 1.9DG petrol, i use 15w40 mineral oil.

Tappets were occasionally noisy but I added wynn hydraulic tappet fluid and haven't had a problem since. Could that have thinned the oil?

Reason I am asking for a second opinion is that I have kind of got used to it happening and so aren't too worried about it. I guess my conclusion is that it is getting very hot and that's what's causing it. I read the various wiki and recent forum posts, including all the links, and aside from electrical issues, this seemed to be an indication of a engine on the way out.

Should I think about getting some gauges, oil pressure? oil temp? Have been googleing gauges, sender units and remote t pieces, Looks like a good little project.

Any thoughts anyone?

Thanks

[itchyfeet]

Sounds same as mine, sorry but it's probably genuine low oil pressure.

Fixed mine short term by thicker 20 50 oil but I'm under no illusion I'm on borrowed time.

Suggest you get an oil pressure gauge, either a test one or a permanent one to see what's going on.

[DoubleOSeven]

A problem shared is a problem halved. I'm having the low oil pressure light too, same scenario, you have explained. I've considering this nice little pressure kit on bay of fleas, because I am up to item 5 of this useful url, sigh

http://www.vanagain.com/stop-your-oil-l ... lickering/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[DoubleOSeven]

[img]//images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/10 ... ab1cc2.jpg[/img]

[itchyfeet]

My oil pressure guage and oil temp guage
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... e#p8053293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... e#p8060588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

oil cooler in progress but this is just to get me through summer in France, rebuild is next

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8052340" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[pandp38]

!st of all get oil pressure checked on wet gauge.
Replace oil pessure switches (if not already done).
Don't discount electrical problem especially the white multiplug under dash pod which is susceptical to corrosion and give "false alarms"

[itchyfeet]

!st of all get oil pressure checked on wet gauge.
Replace oil pessure switches (if not already done).
Don't discount electrical problem especially the white multiplug under dash pod which is susceptical to corrosion and give "false alarms"

it's predictable when temp is hot and revs falling coming off a fast stretch, unlikely to be electrical, it's a sign of a worn engine.

2050 has stopped my buzzer triggering but just because it's raised the very hot oil pressure just above the 0.9bar threshold at 2000 rpm, still too low for a healthy engine.

[pandkh]

Does it have to be a 'Wet' gauge? Does an electrical gauge that has a 'wet' sender unit qualify? Or does it need to be a gauge that measures the oil directly .

I have been looking since yesterday at fitting a dash mounted pressure gauge, but was looking at the electrical type. I'd like to see how that varies over short / long distances, hot/cold engine. I'll probably learn something by watching the values

I think I'll pull the oil and filter change forward and swap to 20w50 and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks for the responses everyone.

[pandkh]

My oil pressure guage and oil temp guage
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... e#p8053293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... e#p8060588" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

oil cooler in progress but this is just to get me through summer in France, rebuild is next

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.p ... r#p8052340" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Where did you get you T-piece and hose from? What size threads do they have. I've seen various for sale. They're not cheap at £25 ish, but that's ok I guess as long as i buy the right one!

[marlinowner]

VW T25 oil pressure switches and senders have M10x1 thread.

[kevtherev]

The wet gauge test is the most accurate, so yes.
I fitted a wet gauge (mechanical gauge is its proper term) permanently because of the electrical uncertainty.
I also think your engine is now in need of a pump, mains, and big end check up.

[itchyfeet]

Need to know which way you are going before buying the t-piece as you need to specify the sender or union thread.
got mine off ebay.

compared a portable wet guage with my electric and it was less acurate yes.

[pandkh]

Just updating the thread.

I did my first long trip in the van since upgrading to 20w50 oil. 1hr 30mins at 65 - 70 mph, came off the A11 up to the roundabout and NO buzzer of doom. So I'm i'm at least pleased with that change. I still have the oil pressure gauge to fit, which I'll do before the summer hols.