That pic is not easy to see, check it matches this wiring because it sound odd to me
anyway the Y link method i have given allows you to crank the van with ignition so you can worry about electrics later and get focused again on the engine
id check you have sparks then pour a little petrol down the carb and try starting it with the Y link in the switch connector
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
What a fool I've been! Thanks you so much for posting that picture - i had the red and the red/black round the wrong way! Now ignition switch is back to normal - lights, indicators, etc and I've got sparks. Still didn't start though. Nearly had a breakdown about it last night! This morning I looked again and noticed there was no smell of fuel. So i took the inlet trunking off the top of the carb to have a look and it was all bone dry. Got my wife to turn the engine and could see no fuel being delivered into the carb. This is annoying as I have put a new fuel pump on and checked it works. I even put the original back on a week or so ago to check! When I did that I also held the fuel line that connects to the pump below the level of the tank to check fuel was flowing - after a quick suck and a mouth full of fuel it did! So that's where I've got to but have to stop until monday now. Thanks for the help - hopefully I'm getting there.
Forgot to say, I have got at least ten litres of fuel in the tank as I put two cans in after I put the engine back in just in case! I'm pretty sure as well that the in and out hoses to the carb are the right way round as one port is slightly bigger than the other. Hope that sounds right to other people?!
Yeh i was beggining to think you had done something strange to the wiring
The only true test of the pump is to take off the pipe to the carb and get somebody to crank it while you watch it pump into a jar
its potentially dangerous so make sure you disconnect the coil and have an extinguisher handy
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
That's what I thought with my pushrods they were sat correctly on the rockers but not seated correctly on the opposite end only found by chance. I undone the rockers so the rods were loose and and guided them in to there seats internally and that allowed the valves to close giving me back the compression I was missing on 3 and 4.
Appologies for radio silence - I've had a really busy couple of days. With regard to the pushrods, I have taken them out and put them back in again so fingers crossed they are seated properly. The new fuel pump I have put on is definately not sending fuel through so I put the old one on and that isn't either. When I turned the engine without the pump on I noticed the pump pushrod doesn't seem to be lifting high enough to push the trigger on the bottom of the pump. This obviously would be a reason the pump isn't working but why would this be?! I haven't changed the pushrod and it was obviously lifting high enough before I rebuilt the engine. What is it that lifts the pump pushrod and would it be possible for it to be wrongly seated? I've nearly run out of time on this project and I probably need to decide tomorrow whether to get a garage involved which is really dissapointing
I have just realised that I didn't put a thrust washer on the bottom of the distrubutor drive gear when I put it back in. Could this be why the fuel pump pushrod isn't lifting high enough to opperate the the pump? If so, does anyone know where I can get one or what the thickness should be and how to get the danm thing out of the engine again! Any help would be great! Nick.
I had problems with my engine miss firing then reving like a nutter.
At the time my dizzy was 180 degrees out.
I took it to the garage for assistance.
The bugger sat there and idled beautifully. Drove fine. I was just about to get admitted to the nuthouse when at idle the thing started missing then the 2000rev idle cut in! The mechanics face was a picture!!
So, they decided they would start with the dizzy being 180 out as I was adamant I wanted it right. I'm glad I was...as they found that the washer was not underneath. What they told me was that the izzy drive would "wear" the softer engine casing...the washer in situ prevents this. I think they grabbed something out of their box of bits lol. It was missing and then reving wildly as it wasn't turning properly and the advance was trying to help! (or something like that...lol)
As for getting it out...we had tried...but it would only come so far, twisting as it came. The garage removed the fuel pump and rod which then allowed the dizzy to come straight out. I was told that as you reseat the dizzy it rotates 180 degress..which is why they think mine was out.
Not done this myself...I was watching...and it was many years ago
Hope this helps a bit....keep going!!
Em
x
2.1 DJ 1990 Caravelle (died and gone to heaven)
2.0 AGG (1997 ish) 1984 transporter LPG
agnew1985 wrote:I have just realised that I didn't put a thrust washer on the bottom of the distrubutor drive gear when I put it back in. Could this be why the fuel pump pushrod isn't lifting high enough to opperate the the pump? If so, does anyone know where I can get one or what the thickness should be and how to get the danm thing out of the engine again! Any help would be great! Nick.
Yeh that would be the problem pushrod should go up and down 4mm it will be over 1mm short without the washers, you could fit a leccy pump but those shims/washers there for a reason as said^^^^
I have removed the drive with a long m6 bolt or studding, wrap electrical insulation tape around to 7mm diameter exactly, clean out oil on drive spring hole then gently hammer the m6 bolt in , tape gives enough friction to the pull it out, fuel pump spacer needs removing to do this.
to add the shims/ washers you should get away with a blob of thick grease to hold it on but if it falls off you are in trouble so be careful and make sure its well stuck on
Em and Itchyfeet thanks so much for the replies. I hope, I hope this might be getting me somewhere! I have ordered two shims and am working on getting the driveshaft out. I'll let you know how I get on.
Well that got the fuel flowing! That problem is solved but still not starting. It sounds close - almost catching but not quite. I have played around with the dizzy and although it sounds better or worse as i turn it still no start. I feel like it must be to do with the lack of compression on 1 and 2 and I'm wondering whether to take the head off and have a look? Not sure what I'm expecting to see tho! On top of this the starter is playing up again. When I turn the key to start sometimes it goes but 9 times out of 10 the solenoid clicks and nothing happens. Feel pretty down about the whole thing. I want to see it through but don't know if I'm beat.
Try taking plugs out then hold your finger over the spark plug hole, turn it over and see what compression you can feel with your finger
then remove rocker shaft and repeat, see if its any different , this may indicate if its valved being held open at the wrong time.
dont take head off yet, go back over everything look at my pic or, thats a good indicator of where dizzy should be when engine is tdc, rotar arm pointing at the hole with cap
ask yourself, if you discover whats wrong and it means a strip down would you do it or give up?
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
Hi itchyfeet, did as you suggested but there was no difference - nothing with it on, nothing with it off. I've put pics of my dizzy position below. Yours does seem further anticlockwise to mine. Obviously I can twist the dizzy round that far but the rotor arm isn't pointing that way. Thanks for the support Em - I really don't want to give up! If I knew what the problem was I would certainly be happy to strip down - I'm fine if I've got something to definately work at. I'm thinking that there must be something deeper but my fear is going to all the effort of opening the engine up and not finding any fault!
Now ignition switch is back to normal - lights, indicators, etc and I've got sparks. Still didn't start though. Nearly had a breakdown about it last night! This morning I looked again and noticed there was no smell of fuel. So i took the inlet trunking off the top of the carb to have a look and it was all bone dry. Got my wife to turn the engine and could see no fuel being delivered into the carb. This is annoying as I have put a new fuel pump on and checked it works. I even put the original back on a week or so ago to check! When I did that I also held the fuel line that connects to the pump below the level of the tank to check fuel was flowing - after a quick suck and a mouth full of fuel it did! So that's where I've got to but have to stop until monday now. Thanks for the help - hopefully I'm getting there. 
Feel pretty down about the whole thing. I want to see it through but don't know if I'm beat. 
