1.9 DG - Attempting a full rebuild...

[Aidan]

Hardwick Engineering in Warrington do my work, I can put you in touch with the machine shop boss next week when he's back from Holiday, nice old school guys, only a few years from retirement unfortunately, cash jobs done on the side of the main business which is refurbishing truck parts

[T25Convert]

Aidan,

That would be cracking - I work in Birchwood so Warrington would be very handy...

Cheers,

Alex

[torsen]

However, cannot shift the carbon off the top – seems impervious to scrubbing, carb cleaner, paraffin, wd40, brake cleaner and white spirit. Other than the dishwasher (not really practical!) is there any advice?

Fairy Power Spray

I have built a few engines and this is the best stuff I have found for removing carbon...really

[pionte]

I had to drill a few of my studs out... its a pain ! buy some good quality cobalt HSS drill bits, go slowly and use specialist drilling oil to help stop overheating as this will blunt the drill bit super fast !!

expect to get through a few bits, and start small and go up a couple of mm at a time... oh and measure the depth of an existing hole without a stud in, mark the drill bit with tape and do not go past this depth... the water jacket is very very close within mm so take care, I punctured the jacket and had a nightmare sorting it. There is a post somewhere ( by cruz ) I think ... I could be wrong, he cut a head open and showed just how close the water ways are !

[Dazco]

Just read all this thread, loving it and can't wait to see it up and running again. Keep up the good work , wish I had the guts to do something like this .

[Aidan]

Aidan,

That would be cracking - I work in Birchwood so Warrington would be very handy...

Cheers,

Alex

I don't envy your commute

[itchyfeet]

There is a post somewhere ( by cruz ) I think ... I could be wrong, he cut a head open and showed just how close the water ways are !

it was me

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=118129" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[pionte]

lol, thanks Itchy... my memory for names is appalling so apologies for that, I remember your post though ( couldnt find it again though ! ) and remember wishing that I had read it BEFORE I started drilling for water

Was it put in WIKI ? should be as could save others lots of grief !

[itchyfeet]

l
Was it put in WIKI ? should be as could save others lots of grief !

try reading it to the end

*****E D I T so as not to clutter the thread***

yes it's in the wiki as done by Hacksawbob
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Pe ... stud_depth" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Robsey]

Very informative thread.

I am about to embark upon a DF rebuild.
It has been left for 23 years with the left head removed (blown out valve seat).

I am sure that the DF and DG are all but identical mechanically apart from larger exhaust valve heads on the DG.
I have heard about the razor sharp crank case internals before.

Hey ho - time for some blood-letting to begin

Keep up the excellent work.

[T25Convert]

Having spent a long weekend doing mainly other things, I’m finally approaching the point where everything is clean!

Robsey, good luck with yours - would be interested to hear how you get on.

Thanks for the tip on Fairy Power Clean – not tried it as I didn’t see the post in time, but can confirm that normal green fairy liquid with boiling water does wonders, and is more potent than most degreasers. Started rinsing my dishes better now having seen what it can do!

Pistons after a soak in Fairy liquid and a gentle brush with a tooth brush:



They all have a little more stubborn carbon in the cut outs in the crown, but think this will go with a further soaking, or else I’ll be cracking out the fairy power clean!!

Starting to look like an exploded view of clean parts:



So, just (!?!) some exhaust studs to drill and the rebuild itself can begin.

Planning on painting the case, seen varying views on best paints and products. Seems that in the wider engine building world that BBQ paint is a favourite – anyone got any views on what’s good (or equally what’s not!)

Lots of other things on in the next couple of weeks, so progress may slow for a while on this (plus need pay day to come along again!!)

Cheers,

Alex

[boardmonkey]

mmmmmmm shiny....

[sarran1955]

Hello,

Painting the case and engine generally...

As you have no protection from corrosion..

I use Hammerite silver grey for the case..2 light coats by smallish brush.. don’t worry if you get it onto a mating face .. use a good scraper to remove any excess..

I've just power washed the CT engine,, and the hammerite on the heat exchangers is just starting to 'go'... after 5 years..

For all the bits of exhaust that get hot ..

2 coats of high temp woodstove paint (black).. this lasts about 3 years before flaking..

I was very disappointed with several tries of 'shiny aluminium' exhaust paint.. especially on the main box..

Hope this helps..

Cordialement,

[T25Convert]

Sarran - Thanks for that I'll be using Hammerite for the case and heads, and probably leaving the exhaust to continue rusting until I can get a s/s one! Thanks for the (continued) advice.

So, after spending many many evenings and a large number of drill bits all the exhaust studs are out the heads, only to show that the threads are pretty tired. There is evidence that they have been drilled out before (badly), and most only have a few good threads. Tried to clean it all up with a good tap, but there’s just not enough metal left.

So, next step is to recover the engine that is currently in the van, and see what the heads are like on that one – what fun! I know the exhaust studs are good as I put new ones in, but fear the valves / guides / cracking may be worse. Only one way to find out though!!

To cheer myself up, I bought an engine stand, so I can start rebuilding the bottom end off the ground. Beware – the Clarke engine stand does not fit ‘any engine’ as the blurb says, it needed some ‘modifications’ to make the WBX fit!



Haven’t had much time on this recently, in part due to MOT work on my daily runner – this must be the worst design of a car part I have ever seen (thanks Mr Vauxhall):



This is the front suspension drop link – a ball joint socket made of plastic. Wonder why it wore out!! Made working on the van seem quite pleasant really, at least the parts are made of metal!!

Back on this again now though, so I’ll apologise in advance for the questions which will start again!

Cheers,

Alex

[CJH]

Let me preface this by saying I haven't got the faintest idea what I'm talking about, but can you not recover the threads using helicoil inserts?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;