Engine flooding with fuel. DJ2.1 1989 Auto. Broken down in roadside

[TONYT25T25]

I think if you want to add a video you must load it up to you tube first, as per this instruction supplied by a member.

[maxstu]

Cheers TONYT25. Thanks for the info.

I think the photo will do for now. I dont really want to start an account with You Tube.
If another member has an account l can email or whatsapp video to them for loading?

[maxstu]

So lm going to check ECU today. Wiring to earth etc.

As the fuel pump is not cutting off after priming and just filling engine with fuel, it sounds like an earthing issue to me.

What part does the Fuel Pressure Regulator play? Fuel comes in. FPR is controlled by vacuum off dizzy. Excess fuel returned to tank via the plastic spigot on engine bay wall? That simple?

[maxstu]

Cant add to Youtube with an Android phone apparently.

[maxstu]

So l thought l would check ohms reading on the full throttle switch. Took out airbox and trunk and noticed oil in the mouth of the throttle body. Is this normal? And some oil on top of engine casing too..

[maxstu]

And more. The plenum on right banks has shifted on the pipework a little bit. Shows clean 5mm area. What could have caused that? Hydraulic locking when engine flooded?

[maxstu]

To the best of my ability have completed an AFC system check with my multimeter and shows a few issues.

Terminals 1 and 7 Hall control unit type AEG (?) not getting any battery voltage.

11 and 7 cyl. 4 injector and wiring zero ohms.
12 and 7 cyl. 3 the same.

[maxstu]

Continuing with test on next page...
Same issue with fuel injectors for cylinders 1 and 2. Zero ohms reading.

25 and 7 ground connection for ECU fine.

Is there a connection to starter motor to prime fuel pump for half a second?

[Aidan]

I think the pump switches itself off once lines are primed, if it isn't controlled by the relay being switched by the ECU then it has an inbuilt resistive back pressure switch as when you switch ignition off and on without starting the pump doesn't run every time as system is primed and not depressurizing
but you seem to have injectors open, was the photo taken cranking the engine on the starter with the king lead disconnected and earthed ?
oil in intake is common from the crank breather 
have you had a backfire ?
fuel pressure regulator is controlled by plenum vacuum pressure which is high when idling and decreases as revs rise, so the regulator is closed with the engine off so no fuel returning to tank so lines fully prime ready for start, once idling the vacuum is high so regulator opens up allowing a lot of fuel back to tank so pressure at the injectors is minimum and injectors close and open more closed than open rate and as revs rise vacuum decreases and regulator closes up restricting return to tank increasing pressure at injectors towards maximum, and at full chat the injectors barely close and fuel is poring into the inlets

[maxstu]

Thanks Aidan.

I think the pump switches itself off once lines are primed, if it isn't controlled by the relay being switched by the ECU then it has an inbuilt resistive back pressure switch as when you switch ignition off and on without starting the pump doesn't run every time as system is primed and not depressurizing
but you seem to have injectors open, was the photo taken cranking the engine on the starter with the king lead disconnected and earthed ? picture taken with key on and lights on dash just before cranking engine
oil in intake is common from the crank breather that is good to read
have you had a backfire ?No backfire whatsoever. Started fine. Drove about ten miles. Filled with petrol. Drove another 60 miles. Collected my father for 95 mile trip. Blooming thing would not start. Cranking caused hydraulic lock and fuel drippping from joints in exhaust
fuel pressure regulator is controlled by plenum vacuum pressure which is high when idling and decreases as revs rise, so the regulator is closed with the engine off so no fuel returning to tank so lines fully prime ready for start, once idling the vacuum is high so regulator opens up allowing a lot of fuel back to tank so pressure at the injectors is minimum and injectors close and open more closed than open rate and as revs rise vacuum decreases and regulator closes up restricting return to tank increasing pressure at injectors towards maximum, and at full chat the injectors barely close and fuel is poring into the inlets l have a spare untested regulator at home 65 miles away. Maxine is driving up tomorrow to bring me home from her stable yard. I will then return to camper on motorcycle and swap over. Is there a tool free way of testing fuel pressure regulator

[maxstu]

Anyone got any thoughts why no power (12v) between 1and 7 and no ohms readings for all injectors? Ive cleaned all earths in engine bay. Cant get to earth on fuel pump though because of terrain. According to manual its on crossmember near pump? Is that correct? I thought the twin plug connnector in far right hand corner of engine bay wall was the only wiring involved for fuel pump?
Regards
Stuart

To the best of my ability have completed an AFC system check with my multimeter and shows a few issues.

Terminals 1 and 7 Hall control unit type AEG (?) not getting any battery voltage.

11 and 7 cyl. 4 injector and wiring zero ohms.
12 and 7 cyl. 3 the same.

[Syncronorth]

Cant get to earth on fuel pump though because of terrain. According to manual its on crossmember near pump? Is that correct? I thought the twin plug connnector in far right hand corner of engine bay wall was the only wiring involved for fuel pump

Here is a picture of borrowed from internet showing how my pump is connected 

[maxstu]

I cant get under camper in its current location. But from changing fuel pumps before on my DJ lm sure both leads go to a twin connector in engine bay behind filter box. This is the old pump with long wiring.
Im back with camper Thursday with a spare FPR. Will fit it and start from there. Very concerned no power going through terminals 1and 7 for ECU cable, with ignition on!

[Oldiebut goodie]

I would be concerned at the very poor wiring and connections - this is appalling ( I know that it isn't on the van presently):

[maxstu]

Appreciate your concern. But it was purely to show wiring length to T2 connector in engine bay. This wiring doesnt get used when pump is replaced. Yet agree. Will tidy and make safe.

Moving on l found an internet clip showing exactly same issue as my camper is suffering at the moment. The fuel pump not shutting of after priming. The poster claims it was simply a faulty relay in black box. Swapped it out for a new one and fault solved.

I checked function off both relays by adding 12 volts across pos and neg and listen for the click. Both clicked. Perhaps there is more to test on both relays. How do l test relay output to pump 87?

1 - Tachometric signal, connects to the ignition coil "1" terminal (green wire)
15 - Ignition live (black wire)
30 - Battery live (red wire, fused of course!)
31 - Earth (brown wire)
87 - Relay output to pump.