Club 80-90 Forums

As per title, a VW exchange unit (engine number D. That's it!) with a verified 100k and had been religiously serviced by first owner. New owner wanted a bit more oomph as they tow a caraven and was referred to me by ST Engineering to rework the engine.
Case ultrasonically cleaned and clearanced to use a perfect standard 76mm 2.1 crank, a few head studs replaced, new everything (VW pistons, VW liners, 2.1 Newman cam, VW rods (modified), followers, AMC/KS heads (lightly ported), TRW valves (light mod to blueprint), NOS pushrod tubes.
Not many pics but here's a few:

It will be going out fully dressed fornthe early cooling system, managed to save the stat housing by not looking at the bolts until it had been thoroughly warmed up. All screws came out cleanly
Really enjoyed this build, its been a privilege and I have learned a bit about what can be done with the early pre-suffix wbx too.

Very nice.

You say DJ spec but keeping early cooling system. Staying with a carb? Or is it possible to FI with early cooling system?

Regards
Stuart

Customer started out with this engine, it had been converted to a 2E3 at some time which makes life easier as a DJ will happily run on DG fuel and ignition parts.
The case needed a little clearance work, mostly to the "roof" of the case halves to allow the big end bolts to pass cleanly.
Not unlike when changing a 2.1 to 2.5 spec really, I used up the last set of 2.5 modified rods but they probably weren't necessary, I just needed the 24mm standard pin size.
Should be a nice punchy motor, I had the same combination in my syncro years ago, just with a suffix B case.

Not sure how I ended up here on this page nosing around, but now that I am I can say that looks like a work of art.
Well done.

Very nice work, a good conversion. DG to MV/DJ pistons on Pierburg. Recommend.

Your case cleaner does a fantastic job.

How difficult or easy is it to add the second oil switch below water pump on an early DG1900 block?
Is it really just drilling an appropriate size hole through the case then adding a thread using correct size tap to suit the oil switch thread?

my first t3 in the late 90's was meant to be a 1.9 but when it started knocking and we pulled it out and found it had a DJ code.  It went off to be rebuilt, when it came back the 2E3 went back on and it ran well but not as well as it could.
I bought a single weber conversion kit that we just could not get to run right, turned out to be a casting defect. The place we got if from swapped it for another one and we took it to a rolling road to get set up properly.. best thing we did as they re-jetted it from what I remember and fine tuned the timing. 
Anyway it was a great drive good bit more power than a standard 1.9 so I can see why someone would do this, well worth while and easier to maintain than an old injection system.
 

maxstu wrote: ↑03 Nov 2021, 12:20 How difficult or easy is it to add the second oil switch below water pump on an early DG1900 block?
Is it really just drilling an appropriate size hole through the case then adding a thread using correct size tap to suit the oil switch thread?

There is no casting boss to drill/tap on the early case iirc.

maxstu wrote: ↑03 Nov 2021, 12:20 How difficult or easy is it to add the second oil switch below water pump on an early DG1900 block?
Is it really just drilling an appropriate size hole through the case then adding a thread using correct size tap to suit the oil switch thread?

Yes possible, 123-jn did it on this early case he made into a 2.1

viewtopic.php?p=8131289#p8131289



 

Early case? I cant remember which is which.
Is it purely a drill through then tap? How do l get rid of debris?



I have two blanking plugs. So the bottom one. I thought it would be the upper one.






Regards
Stuart

Yes early case. Sorry I can't see how you can guarantee no swarf in gallery so i''d say only on a rebuild.
 

I think if it were me I'd just fit a T piece to the low pressure switch hole if you need a buzzer switch. Oil pressure should be 2bar at 80decC 2000 rpm at the low pressure switch but if it falls below 0.9 bar at 2000rpm ( grey switch) really hot at 110+deg C oil then I think you have problems anyway. Pressure will be higher at the pump end so it's playing safe.

Ta very much.