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After it has been run for a few minutes at tickover with excess oil the oil will be distributed around the crankcase rather than sitting in the sump at a high level where it is rapidly churned to a froth at higher revs. Wouldn't be the first person to have reported the same symptoms with the same overfilling scenario.
I wasn't aware that it was causing a misfire, that wasn't the symptoms that were described in the OP.
The shaking would be more that the pistons cannot travel downwards with the ease that they should due to hitting a semi-solid like foam that would be churned up to a greater extent with higher revs.
JustGavin wrote:So I loosened off the fuel injectors when the engine was running in its wobbly banning stage on first start and 3 of them had an effect but 1 did nothing??
Gavin has already isolated the problem to one cylinder. That's a misfire.........or remarkably selective froth.
Sorry but that has been dealt with - it had no effect on the shaking. It does pay to read what he has posted. He has only called it a misfire after your "diagnosis" of it being a misfire. It is no good you wandering off at a tangent with all your valve seats etc. Start with the facts.
1. Engine shaking on over tickover revs.
2. Engine was overfilled with oil.
3. Oil level corrected = no more shaking. Engine running sweetly now.
No need for esoteric flights of fancy and misreading the reported facts.
I am out now whilst you carry on leading him up the garden path to an engine rebuild!
I've left it for a while for the language to cool a bit.
One of the problems with ridiculing other people on this forum is that IF they should turn out to be correct, you can set yourself up for a very public fall.
JustGavin
Now I'm putting myself at risk of further ridicule, and being seen as a prophet of doom, but I am still of the opinion that your problem may be a loose exhaust valve seat, and that the mitigation of your symptoms is actually due to the warmer starts. Let me make a prediction if I may..............
If the information you gave about the symptoms is correct, (and I give you enough credit to think they would be) they might well return either
1. When colder weather returns in the autumn, in which case the symptoms will be very similar to what you have experienced recently shortly after startup and even with the engine idling.
and/or
2. When you get the opportunity to take the van out on the road and get onto full throttle, after a few seconds it will go onto 3 cylinders until the load has been removed for a while, when it will return to full power. It will come and go seemingly at random.
Either way, with lockdown and warmer weather, it might be much later in the year before we find out.
This is no flight of fancy, I had exactly this problem back in 2003, and coincidentally at the same time of year. Several times I thought I had cured it but each time it crept back. It was infuriating.
The way to find out for sure is to do the non-invasive valve stem gap test I suggested earlier. If you want to do this I'm happy to help if I can.
Why am I being so pedantic about this? If the symptoms are ignored, the later stages of a loose valve set are that it starts to rattle, then could fall out causing heavy valve/piston contact, breaking the cam belt and totalling the engine. This could easily be put down to "just" a broken cam belt, and the underlying cause missed. Ask some Frod Focus owners and BMW motorcyclists who are more familiar with loose valve seats.
I hope I'm wrong, and that your problem has been cured by reducing the oil level, in which case I'm very happy for you, but I doubt it.
Right..
So I have changed the oil level and all seams ok? No longer have the terrible misfire on first start so I'm happy with that and thanks for all the advice.
New issue now though....
I had a crack in the plastic oil breather pipe down near where it bolts on with the two allan bolt's so I replaced it. I have cleaned the area and fitted the new one only fi d it is pissing oil out still . Am I missing something? I have made sure that the bolts arnt to long and are tighten up correctly but the rubber O ring doesn't seam to be sitting snug enough. Any ideas...
Also how do I add images so you guys have a better idea on what I'm taking about?
O God I said misfire on my last post apologies. Loads of good advice and help on here guys and like I said at the start. I am learning as I go so please excuse my ignorance if I explain something incorrectly. Being corrected and schooled in something you don't understand is important so thank you. If the issues I have experienced come back then I have advice from all angles.
JustGavin wrote:Right..
So I have changed the oil level and all seams ok? No longer have the terrible misfire on first start so I'm happy with that and thanks for all the advice.
New issue now though....
I had a crack in the plastic oil breather pipe down near where it bolts on with the two allan bolt's so I replaced it. I have cleaned the area and fitted the new one only fi d it is pissing oil out still . Am I missing something? I have made sure that the bolts arnt to long and are tighten up correctly but the rubber O ring doesn't seam to be sitting snug enough. Any ideas...
Also how do I add images so you guys have a better idea on what I'm taking about?
I changed my plastic one for a metal one as the original plastic one was cracked. ( I made my own so wouldn't know if there is an OEM one available) I would rather have the metal than the plastic any day. With just an o-ring you need a very clean and smooth face. Also check that your new one is flat as plastic warps far too easily for my liking.