Club 80-90 Forums

I also run a 30mbar Cadac on an external point on my Gipsy at 50mbar. I contacted Cadac to try and buy a jet but they wouldn’t sell me one, gave some lame excuse but I can’t remember what now. The sizes of the jets are listed in the manual so it may be possible to solder and redrill the hole as I th...

I had a similar issue when installing a 30mbar heater in my otherwise 50mbar Gipsy.



https://www.autogasshop.co.uk/gok--trum ... -604-p.asp

I used one of these inline jobbies installed in my rigid lines. Works an absolute treat.

I think the only way it could be linked to the clutch cover plate would be in the unlikely event that the cover bolts were possibly too long and are protruding through the flywheel and hitting something on the block maybe?
They would have to be over 25mm long I’d imagine to cause a problem.

Did something similar to an old petrol Range Rover many years ago. I drained the tank into containers by pulling off the feed to the engine, then absolutely brimmed it with fresh petrol. It smoked a bit but did no harm, my local V8 expert said the devils fuel is only really good as a lubricant so wi...

That’s great, thanks. I have already run a 2core cable with the vacuum lines to the diff lock actuator switch so one I will take to the earth crown and the other into the multiconnector.

Hi all, I am looking to use the now defunct orange glow plug warning light in my dash pod as a diff lock warning light. Does anyone happen to know if the white/red wire that feeds the lamp requires a +ve or -ve trigger to bring it on and if +ve is it a 12v feed. I don’t want to risk a dash meltdown ...

I had exactly the same symptoms and before I went GTi I nursed my old JX on by cutting mine open and drilling 6 x 4mm holes to bolt it back together then just temporarily used a bit of rubber inner tube on the pressured side of the existing diaphragm. Worked a treat for 6 months and still lives on i...

Check out this thread.
viewtopic.php?t=171846

If there is room could you drill it out and replace with a bolt and nyloc nut?

Would it not be possible to just swap just that arm over onto a Uk spec mechanism. Looks like it’s only the lugs holding it. The cruise wiring looks to be completely separate.

I have a 5sp shifter, just needed to know how compatible it is with the 4sp box.
Got it on and working now.
Thanks.

That’s great, thanks for the quick response.
Do I need to use the whole linkage too or just the front end back to the first uj?

I have a bit of an issue with my 4 speed shifter, seems to have kind of fallen to pieces around the plastic pivot bush! I am changing to a 5 speed transmission once it’s back from reconditioning and I’m hoping that I may be able to change the shifter to the good 5 speed I have and run it with the ex...

Don’t put a pin in it, you should just be able to poke a bluntish small screwdriver between the boot and the pushrod. Any fluid in the drums is often just absorbed by the brake dust if it minimal, that can also sit within the boots for a while too though.

I had a similar situation a few years back, turned out to be the clutch slave cylinder. No external evidence but when I pulled the rubber boot about on the pushrod I got a wet arm! Probably worth popping the drums off too just to be sure the cylinders haven’t failed, I’ve had cheap ones go bad after...