Club 80-90 Forums

Morning, With the recent epic rain I have water pouring (well very fast drip) in through the pop top skylight; Looks like it is coming in between the seal and the actual skylight on the right side (and a slower leak towards the rear) I did try installing a replacement seal (from BW) a while back but...

Found the below stats for the fridge (or at least the Waeco equivalent which seems identical) 1.1 Ah/h at +25°C ambient temperature, 1.7 Ah/h at +32°C ambient temperature, both at +5°C interior temperature and -18°C in the freezer compartment And a youtube video of a chap testing it for real who saw...

There should be a rubber washer on the end of it that creates the seal. If you slide the clip out and gently pull the pipe out and check to see or replace. If the pipe is original it will be brittle but could be cracked too. Brickwerks sell them if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brillia...

marlinowner wrote: ↑27 Jun 2020, 19:45 https://www.facebook.com/groups/6736795 ... 312325779/

Pcb to fit 14 way connector

I had a look at these but couldn't find one that had drilled holes that you could solder a wire into/onto - they all seem to be just pads? Or have you seen anything more useful?

I have an oil leak from the below location; (pic is not my engine - stole image from interweb - but it is identical arrangement) https://i.imgur.com/GCetBQ7.jpg Is this the oil breather return or soemthing like that (I am new to these engines) It looks like this right now - below pic; https://i.imgu...

Not sure if the pic below helps at all with what is going on between the switch and the ignitor; Do you definitely have 12V going into the ignitor and definitely have a good ground connection going out (through the choc block connection); If the actual spark generator down at the back of the fridge ...

... after hooking the van up to the mains, the igniter starts to work again after 20 mins or so. ... Once the igniter is working it lights the gas with no issue at all. The two above items point towards an electrical issue - and if the ignitor really does just start working after 20mins then that p...

Its not hidden. There are two wires with spade connectors that just slot straight on to open and visable connections. Its like its missing some sort of box. Would you be able to post a picture of this - it looks like it might be a bit unconventional... (i.e. someone might already have messed around...

Are you saying that the light goes off 'before' the engine starts?
So, if you have the ignition switch in the first position (and do not start the engine) - does the LED light then go out (with the engine still not running)?

Worth having a look at the below post - it looks a lot like the capacitor on your gauge may be dead;

https://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic. ... 9&t=165992

Does anything on the dash work i.e. fuel gauge, high beam indicator, illumination lights that come on when headlights are on?

Your circuit looks slightly different to mine - but looks like the cap is visible sticking out from under the board at the bottom there - so just need to figure out which joints to desolder

Thanks MLC, early gauges seem to be slightly different in construction but I’ll give it a try. My pics are of an 'early' gauge (i.e. from a non-rev counter display) - although mine seems to have rivets - looks like yours may just have bent tabs holding the 'display' on so might even be a bit easier...

I think the instructions I saw previously for replacing the capacitor are here: http://www.vanagonauts.com/Warning-Light-Fix241.htm but the link no longer seems to work. Does anyone have an alternative link or know what size the capacitor is? I have a selection of capacitors and want to check I hav...

I've installed a new probe and have 1.8MOhms between the probes so the original is probably fine. I've removed Relay 42 and my LED is still flashing. I'll check the earth again but I suspect I may be dealing with a broken gauge. If you have removed relay 42 and the LED is still flashing (and the ne...