Club 80-90 Forums

From memory, I dropped the engine...

Try the old leads, and then the old cap with the old leads, the old rotor etc? IE, substitute the old parts back in a logical sequence.

How do you test to know you have 'power' from the coil to the cap?

Whereabouts are you?

Torque setting are generally given for dry assembly. However, I normally use a light drop of 3 IN ONE type oil.

Whilst the engine is running.

Take care to not get a shock

Try taking a plug cap off one at a time and see if it makes any difference. If taking one off and nothing changes, that one's not firing...

Try earthing a spare plug in the cap taken off to see if it's sparking.

New sparks, does that include leads, distributor cap and rotor arm?

Thought I'd printed some....

I use a 10" extension bar supported by a trolley jack to help keep the socket square on the nut...

Try a box spanner for the switch

silverbullet wrote: ↑20 Jul 2026, 12:31

Looks like the beige cap on the right has crapped itself and a few components have been running hot to start with...

I find auto-chokes rubbish in general

Went open circuit?

maxstu wrote: ↑12 Jun 2026, 18:59 Many moons ago l was advised not to use a limiter rotor. So didnt and never had a rotor short out problem. But can't recall the reason?

Try a standard version rotor and report back your findings.

It's something you don't need and an extra thing to go wrong

It may seem to be a bit counter-intuitive, but superglue works really well with rubber. Perhaps it's the poor choice of application and use that taint's it's reputation for some people? Superglue is recommended for joining o-ring cord, I can remember making non-standard seals as an apprentice workin...

In all the it takes you to to do a bodge like a split boot it will take probably 2-3 longer doing it properly. If in a rush and for a temp fix before its done properly then a split boot is the only way. Hope it holds for your travels. Is it a 'bodge' if it's only a temporary fix? The car failed it'...