Club 80-90 Forums

R0B wrote: ↑14 Apr 2024, 12:51 VW Electrical Connector - 2 Way / Packard (brickwerks.co.uk)

This is the late one.

The OP has the early one
Also available at BW
https://brickwerks.co.uk/?s=443906231&p ... gwt_wcas=1

OK, then there is possibly a short somewhere.
Either in the wiring or in the controller unit itself

I had luck repairing dead flat batteries with cheap pulse charger from aliexpress This kind: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyWUMnf I would try to charge the battery first out of the van. If it is dead, then replace it. If it keeps blowing fuses even with a new battery, then the charger (or alternator) m...

It seems like standard motorhome door seal if I understood your description

https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/cate ... -seals-615

Search for the partnr on the web. You can find it even on ebay.

It is a mercedes part
partnr 1163340372 or A1163340372

IMO 2K industrial coatings are fine for non-metallic colours. They mix the laquer in the paint so it can be shiny. You can even choose stronger hardeners in specific brands.
I think those are closer to the original paints VW used in the 80's than todays water based automotive paints.

mioba wrote: ↑14 Mar 2024, 21:17 Got an Ina from GSF last year. Was 30 quid.

Thanks.
On the end I got an even cheaper (possibly chinese made) Denckermann branded one locally for around a tenner.
I will see how it will hold.

I am not sure what is changed in the compounds, but todays rubbers are crap. They fall apart in a short time.

The german Cohline that Brickwerks sell seems to be better quality.
I had good luck with Gates too. Gates 3225 used on diesel. Bought it from my local autopart store

Hi, is there any info on the quality of Graf/Metelli water pumps nowadays. They used to be OEM for italian brands. I am a bit low on funds and here it is less than half the price of other big names like INA or the KS/Pierburg that BW has in stock. From the pics I can find, the impeller is pressed sh...

This pic is from the german factory repair manual.
E is intake (Einlassventil)
A is exhaust (Auslassventil)



So Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Intake Exhaust, Intake Exhaust is the order from the timing gear.

The problem with re-sealing is that there will be rust pittings inside the cylinder which usually cannot be honed out.

As told, the aftermarket ones are fine. Especially the italian ones.

You can change it without bleeding the entire system, however worth to flush the wheel cylinders too.

The german Vewib made rubbers are good quality for the OE style all around.
AFAIK they are the suppliers for VW Classicparts.

Brickwerks has them.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/window ... -tailgate/

I assume the tongues are the same, the springs and the housing is symmetrical to LHD.

There are repair kits from the US with new fingers, you might be able to use those

Re-seal os possible DIY, but quite a precision job.

The main advantage of the professional job is to check the internal parts for wear (and being able to replace them) and to calibrate the pump on the end.