Club 80-90 Forums

they are ultrasonicly welded, so it is not easy to remove them and the remaining plastic will be ugly.

I did replace my broken ones. It was a PITA

As above, it is the oil pressure warning light electronics.

Some of the blue foil replacement PCBs have it implemented - the Gowesty one comes to mind, but I am not sure. Maybe the SHC has it too.

As others already said re-mapping on early ECU-s a bit harder. It means chip swap. I think it is hard to find a good map that fits the short gearbox ratios and aerodynamics of our bricks. And really hard to find a good tuner who understand that and makes a nice custom one. Depending the engine insta...

Thanks guys!
Got the same info on FB. Some said if the shorter facing front that helps with alignment. So I did them that way.

You can set the caster and the camber with a digital protractor and a bubble level, and the toe with jack stands, string and measuring rod/tape measure.

I am replacing the LCA bushes as the old ones had some deformation and excess movement

Found out that the NOS Mapco branded new ones have asymmetrical protrusion of the inner sleeve. No signs of that on the old Febi ones.

Is there a good orientation, or just have them the same on both sides?

They should be straight

In the late years VW started to use common wiring harnesses on vans with different trim/accessory levels.

Grey/yellow if connected to B connector pos 20 then it is relayed power feed to the fog light switch

Yes, you can build your "kit" if you have time/money for this kind of job. it helps if you deal with car parts daily.

There are universal kits also available that you can adapt to your van.

As I can see only the brackets are custom, all other parts are standard off the shelf or universal ones.

Manifold is form 1Z, they took a tricky pic of the intercooler, I think it is form a Crafter/T6

As my research in the OE aplication the aux temp switch is in the side coolant flange and the two temp sensors are in the end flange. At least with the metal 1 wire flanges.

It seems like your alternator is not charging. With a fully charged battery running on idle measuring at the battery voltage should be around 13.8V on a petrol van. Check voltage at the alternator stud, at the starter stud, and at the battery. Check the ground strap at the nose of the tranny. Clean ...

The thin blue is the exciter wire. Grounds the dash light through D+ on the alternator.
If it is broken then the alternator will not charge and the charging light will be off all the time

Measure voltage at the D+ pin on the alternator with ignition on. It should be near battery voltage.

I would say around 3-3500 RPM (~90-100 kmph depending the gearbox ratio)

Put back a 15 Amp fuse. If it keeps blowing investigate further. Maybe it was an "emergency" and just 30A fuse was handy but it is also possible that the wiring was changed beside the panel. Or the PO just left the wires as is which is bad. If the charger fuse is 25A, then it is better to ...