Club 80-90 Forums

Yes, you can build your "kit" if you have time/money for this kind of job. it helps if you deal with car parts daily.

There are universal kits also available that you can adapt to your van.

As I can see only the brackets are custom, all other parts are standard off the shelf or universal ones.

Manifold is form 1Z, they took a tricky pic of the intercooler, I think it is form a Crafter/T6

As my research in the OE aplication the aux temp switch is in the side coolant flange and the two temp sensors are in the end flange. At least with the metal 1 wire flanges.

It seems like your alternator is not charging. With a fully charged battery running on idle measuring at the battery voltage should be around 13.8V on a petrol van. Check voltage at the alternator stud, at the starter stud, and at the battery. Check the ground strap at the nose of the tranny. Clean ...

The thin blue is the exciter wire. Grounds the dash light through D+ on the alternator.
If it is broken then the alternator will not charge and the charging light will be off all the time

Measure voltage at the D+ pin on the alternator with ignition on. It should be near battery voltage.

I would say around 3-3500 RPM (~90-100 kmph depending the gearbox ratio)

Put back a 15 Amp fuse. If it keeps blowing investigate further. Maybe it was an "emergency" and just 30A fuse was handy but it is also possible that the wiring was changed beside the panel. Or the PO just left the wires as is which is bad. If the charger fuse is 25A, then it is better to ...

It might be mated to a standard gearbox, but your engine mounts might be DIY.
Or this is an early/late problem.
What year it is? Was it factory diesel?

Did some driving this weekend.
City traffic + some highway.
Hard braking is fine but light is not as sharp as it was before.
Left side was fine temperature wise, right side was a bit warmer.

There were a few different original ones depending on year and tranny.

Donyou have a conversion engine? Your exhaust is not factory.
Your engine mounts could be also DIY

You need a new or better condition steering knuckle. The grease has gone black because the bearing has overheated, due to insufficient end float which you cannot acheive due to wear on the stub axle. Yes, I know. I have some spares in storage but have to check them and buy lower ball joints. Maybe ...

I disassembled and put together everything agin and moved the pistons in and out a few times. Seems better now. Observed a few things: The the sound deadening lining on the back of the brake pads is crumpled where the piston contact is. The grease in the outer bearing of the bad spindle started to g...

Correct me if I am wrong, but iirc there are 2 bleed nipples on each of the front brakes. Did you bleed all 4 ? The late sliding caliper setup only has one bleeder per side. BTW update: Pedal feel is still firm, but they get really warm and stinky (still can touch the hub for a sec or two, so I wou...

You can use the T4 resistor, it just needs swapping the connector

Update: I have replaced the caliper seals on the right side and gravity bled the system. The pedal is firm now, but still not consistent in height. Eg.: the pedal is sometimes lower when braking in reverse. I think I will replace the spindle on the end as I have a spare, but first I need to source g...