Club 80-90 Forums

Put back a 15 Amp fuse. If it keeps blowing investigate further. Maybe it was an "emergency" and just 30A fuse was handy but it is also possible that the wiring was changed beside the panel. Or the PO just left the wires as is which is bad. If the charger fuse is 25A, then it is better to ...

It might be mated to a standard gearbox, but your engine mounts might be DIY.
Or this is an early/late problem.
What year it is? Was it factory diesel?

Did some driving this weekend.
City traffic + some highway.
Hard braking is fine but light is not as sharp as it was before.
Left side was fine temperature wise, right side was a bit warmer.

There were a few different original ones depending on year and tranny.

Donyou have a conversion engine? Your exhaust is not factory.
Your engine mounts could be also DIY

You need a new or better condition steering knuckle. The grease has gone black because the bearing has overheated, due to insufficient end float which you cannot acheive due to wear on the stub axle. Yes, I know. I have some spares in storage but have to check them and buy lower ball joints. Maybe ...

I disassembled and put together everything agin and moved the pistons in and out a few times. Seems better now. Observed a few things: The the sound deadening lining on the back of the brake pads is crumpled where the piston contact is. The grease in the outer bearing of the bad spindle started to g...

Correct me if I am wrong, but iirc there are 2 bleed nipples on each of the front brakes. Did you bleed all 4 ? The late sliding caliper setup only has one bleeder per side. BTW update: Pedal feel is still firm, but they get really warm and stinky (still can touch the hub for a sec or two, so I wou...

You can use the T4 resistor, it just needs swapping the connector

Update: I have replaced the caliper seals on the right side and gravity bled the system. The pedal is firm now, but still not consistent in height. Eg.: the pedal is sometimes lower when braking in reverse. I think I will replace the spindle on the end as I have a spare, but first I need to source g...

I did disassemble the right side. It seems like there are at least two seaparate problems. The brake caliper pistons dust seal was damaged and possibly pinched betweslen the pad and the piston. The spindle is not perfect but I did not measure huge wear. It is the late 22mm one. I measured 40.90 mm s...

You must totally dismantle the right side hub to see what is happening. I suspect that the nut was too tight and now one of the bearings has failed. The flat screwdriver test tells you nothing, the washer could move with only 0.01mm end float and that is far too little! Yes I have to disassemble an...

New problem: After a week in storage today I went a small trip with the van. The brake pedal is softer and seems to grab on lower than before. If I pump it up then it is OK for a few hundred meters then it sinks again. Fluid level is fine, and I cannot see signs of brake fluid around the wheels or ...

Did my 200km trip, and the right front wheel has play again

OK. The left side was fine it had just a little play with the wheel on, rocking 9-6 o'clock. Tightened it just a bit. The right side however has some problems. With the wheel on it has clunking play even then the nut is tightened to where I cannot move the washer. Either the washer is damaged or the...

:ok It must be the bearings. Today I drove the van again. First it was fine, then after a while it dropped again, then fine agajn. It is significally worse after tight corners. But then the thrust washer must be bent or the spindle worn. Or I nterpreted the "washer can be pushed with a screwdri...