Club 80-90 Forums

This pic is from the german factory repair manual.
E is intake (Einlassventil)
A is exhaust (Auslassventil)



So Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Intake Exhaust, Intake Exhaust is the order from the timing gear.

The problem with re-sealing is that there will be rust pittings inside the cylinder which usually cannot be honed out.

As told, the aftermarket ones are fine. Especially the italian ones.

You can change it without bleeding the entire system, however worth to flush the wheel cylinders too.

The german Vewib made rubbers are good quality for the OE style all around.
AFAIK they are the suppliers for VW Classicparts.

Brickwerks has them.
https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/window ... -tailgate/

I assume the tongues are the same, the springs and the housing is symmetrical to LHD.

There are repair kits from the US with new fingers, you might be able to use those

Re-seal os possible DIY, but quite a precision job.

The main advantage of the professional job is to check the internal parts for wear (and being able to replace them) and to calibrate the pump on the end.

Thanks for the reply’s chaps Sadly my corners are way past the scope of the current crop of repair panels that uk stockists have at the moment :cry: I’m sure I could make some, but those Bus ok De panels look perfect for my needs, and would save a lot of hassle! I think I will wait and see if they ...

I think JK is their official partner in the UK, but I am not sure. Maybe Schofields is.
But those panels are really fresh. They were introduced last week.
I think some time will be needed to have them in the UK.

You can find aerosol 1K etch/wash primer in autobody paint ranges. Like HB Body has a yellow tinted one for sure. I used it, works fine. Not sure if yoz can buy it in the UK

Roller applicable 2k is more common in boat coating, there are a lot of choices

Get a quote for the repair and reduce your price with that. Overall price depends on all over condition of the van. Spring/summer is probaby not a good market for project vans.

I think both of those senders should go to the oil filter housing. The factory oil pressure switch is there and IIRC there are other empty M10x1 threaded holes in it.

What amazes me is that people respond to these weird first posts as though they were genuine. They are quite easy to spot. I think that this one is in response to an earlier post here: https://i.imgur.com/PqLt56t.png   I only saw the post without the link. The wording was suspicious, but I am not a...

nicktennear wrote: ↑12 Feb 2024, 17:07

ZsZ wrote: ↑12 Feb 2024, 08:08 these old engines dies

Freudian slip.

I usually use two hammers on two sides and pry it off.
The square end might be rounded and it hangs on the groove on the cable

Ahh, the old what oil question :) You did not mention what engine you have, but these old engines dies not really need any special oils from nowadays supply. Your best option is mineral 15w40, but semi syntetic 10W40 can also be good especially on colder climates. BTW: https://club8090.co.uk/wiki/Al...

On diesels the power goes to the fuse panel in a relatively thin red wire (6mm2) through the black box in the engine bay. It has some crimps on it and there is a M6 stud junction in the box. With time those connections can corrode and cause severe voltage drop. Beside that the ground strap in the no...