Club 80-90 Forums

I had to replace the bolts as well hah,

Quick Google shows part number n0102416

Which would be number six on pic

That's if those are the ones you want to replace

I had the same issues on mine and oldie but goodie said to just use some string to measure it and mine came out a different size than any manuals. Worked fine for a few years now.

Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't as the saying goes

It looks like what is left is still pretty thin, I’d see about taking it back to shiny metal. My gut would say just a flat patch first, then the repair plate, positioning doesn’t need to be millimetre perfect in this instance. Cheers Roger, got it patched and going to order the repair plate (defo w...

So I've turned my attention to sorting out the trailing arm before I go for the jacking point (which I I think is going to be a much bigger ball ache than I first thought) So after getting rid of most the rot I'm left with a bit of a hole. https://i.imgur.com/GLSgNU4.jpeg I've seen the repair pieces...

Thanks, I've read through your whole thread with great interest including the the first guesses at completion dates! I've got it sorned now and still has mot until end of Oct :lol: so hopefully going to use the better weather to get it going again. Just ordered the new mount so I can try and see wha...

Progress update: After having to cut through both bolts I've mamaged to remove the trailing arm and the good news is it in OK knick to me. Gave it a quick once over with wire brush and I reckon should be good to go after a spring mount repair piece and clean up and respray? https://i.imgur.com/Cnwxx...

Yeh I removed it to get at the nuts, but did notice it was the wrong way round when looking at the diagrams and other videos. Not sure if it's a issue as was braking fine before I went digging.

Going to be like triggers broom when I'm finished with this job

Bit more progress today. Found the back plate was pretty much shot and bleeder nipple snapped off when I looked it funny. https://i.imgur.com/tw0WSSE.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/0ine079.jpeg That dowel was quite a battle to get out as well, everything takes so much longer when its rusted. Anyway couple...

Managed to get it off using a thin bit of bent sheet metal to adjust the brake shoes. Rain has stopped play for today though

Right have tried to back on it and have yet again failed at the first hurdle. Have loosened the castle nut and separated brake line and removed the two 11mm bolts but can't for the life of me get the brake drum off. Have hit it untill my ears are ringing and tried prying it from the back plate but n...

Thanks, I think I've got my head round it.

But just to clarify there is another step using a marking plate before the jacking point was welded in on the big blue restoration thread which is not pictured?

I'm not sure if I'm just being thick here but the rod is only used to measure distance and not final placement? https://i.imgur.com/N0cHiua.jpg Going from the other photo posted with the off set bar would the above then be the correct distance out but would need moved forward/backward to it's final ...

The plot thickens! I've already spent £17 on the threaded bar now ha! My back up plan was to cut the jacking point out surgically so that a new one would just slot in it's place.
I suppose it's all guess work until I get the trailing arm off anyway and see what state that's in and surrounding area.

Strange question but could I still use the rod method if only doing one side? Got quite a narrow drive and was hoping to fix the worst side first and then turn the van round for access to the other. Also makes me feel a little safer having three wheels grounded on the slightly slope driveway. The ax...