Club 80-90 Forums

I've been away till today so haven't chased my local supplier. Nearest to me is at Sandy Bedfordshire. From what you say, they don't hold any stock? Any idea of delivery time! I only need a standard cam for a CU engine, though a little more torque would be nice.

I've returned from Exeter to near Huntingdon, around 240 miles today, against a stiff wind  in just over 4 hours. This was in my tin top so lighter than yours, but cruising around 60 to keep ahead of lorries. Hills near Bristol pulled me down to about 50-50mph. This on a standard engine and cars. Ex...

Thanks for that, always thought of Newmans as being competition cams. Price is very pleasing.

Eventually after pushing on with an engine that had several issues, I have taken the plunge into rebuilding it. I had expected to find a poorly top end, but was shocked to find a very badly worn camshaft. My plan is to replace the cam and lifters, ideally hydraulic. But supply is not straight forwar...

I had this happen a couple of weeks back when doing an engine change. The piston in the slave cylinder went further than usual and jammed itself into the corroded end of the cylinder. In addition, the lever also jammed where it passes through the bell housing. Freed both off and now have a lovely li...

When you say 'electric', is that 240v or 12 v, thermoelectric or compressor? Battery or hookup? Power consumption differs hugely across the range.

A continuity test will show good at quite a high resistance, but the wire will struggle to carry much current and show a large voltage drop. Try to meter the voltage from the ground side of the bulb holder to a good ground when the indicator is active. It should read virtually 0 volts, I suspect you...

Mine were the same, I asked the same question. Recommend tof fit them the same way on both sides by BW.

If the Haynes air cooled manual is to be believed, the alternator is 45 amp or 65 amp. No explanation of why two outputs, maybe 1.6 CT is 45 and 2.0 CU is 65? But that was 40 years ago, how much might it put out now? ​​​​​I use a Renogy 20 amp dc to dc charger as back up to 200w of solar into a 100a...

I had a similar problem when a fuel pipe began to break up. Small flakes of rubber got stuck in the float valve causing occasional blockage.

Generally the panels I've looked at give best power output at around 19v, so three in series will be about 57v. Bigger panels will supply a higher current, but usually voltage will be very similar, so one big panel is 19v. You don't want to connect that in parallel to 57v. 

I'll put money on its not a CU.

Haynes states 3L for the CT, 3.5L for the CU, both including filter. Never seen 4L mentioned. Over filling is likely to make any leaks worse, but on the up-side reduces tappet noise at start up!

As above, but won't exceed the CCA rating of the battery,  which will give you a guide value.

Is it the hookup breaker or one inside the van? Either way, what current value is the breaker?