Club 80-90 Forums

Try some switch cleaner and lubricant in the hazard switch. If you dont have any to hand, WD40 can be your friend here! The indicators run through the hazard switch and although the 'on' position of the switch can make the hazards work, the 'off' position, which connects your indicator switch to the...

Stainless exhausts are only about 50% as effective at getting rid of heat compared to the old steel exhausts and so could glow under certain contitions. Timing and mixture do need to be checked though. Overheating like this can also be caused by too lean a fuel mixture.

Give it a go, nothing to loose. Usually the rubber plunger is wearing around the edges is it's beginning to leak though. You won't do any damage with a 1200 wet and dry paper either.

Usually sloppy, usually linkages! Repair kits are available to make this better but you still have a long way between the gear stick and the gearbox for a little slack to creep in. So long as all the gears function correctly (even with a bit of slop!) and there are no unusual whines, rumbles or bits...

If yours is POINTS ignition, then set timing to 7.5 degrees BTDC. However, if you have electronic ignition, then you need to set the timing to about 5 degrees ATDC with vacuum pipes connected and at 850 rpm. You may have looked at the first section in Haynes which describes the setting for points ig...

An electronic indicator relay should do the job. The relay you have works on 2 strips of metal being heated and caused to bend, making and breaking contact. Any extra load or less load ie. a blown lamp, will cause the relay to flash at the incorrect time.

yes it goes totally with no lights on dash at all. eventually the engine will start but not run, sometimes it starts and you can try and keep it going on throttle but then cuts out This sounds electrical. It also sounds like the ignition switch if you are losing all lights on dash. Check the smalle...

The rich smell after turning off can usually be caused by the fuel in the float chamber overheating and spilling down the inlet manifolds. Usually happens during hotter days. You may notice the engine needs to be turned over a few times more than usual before it will start when it does this due to f...

Yeah, mine is in my van! It just squeezes in front of the hydraulic tank on the brake master cylinder. Still working on fitting it in permanently however!

Possibly a higher revving engine could be keeping parts just cool enough to continue running but when slowing down, a heat build up could create something like 'vapour lock'. This is so uncommon and rare in a diesel that I would have thought it very unlikely because the pressures involved and the fu...

I'm pretty sure it was Mk3 sensor, yes. The main problem with this conversion is usually the connectors on the back of the Digifiz. They are like rocking horse stuff! I have the complete list of what connectors do what on the back but had to solder wires directly to the inside of the circuit board o...

Depending on what you have, if it's tripping the main RCD and everything 240v related is going off, then you have earth leakage. This means you have an amount of power going from the live to the earth somewhere. If this is a new fridge, then I would take it back or at least get it checked on a meter...

I have been trying to compile a list of bits and wiring connections for you regarding this but my old PC packed up and I have had to transfer the hard drive into another to read stuff from it! I am now getting somewhere with this and should have something to add to this in a day or so! You can use t...

Ahh, that wire...! You see the thick wire... that's to the starter motor. Your thinner wire is for everything else in the van that runs through the fuse box or ignition key. You will need snip off that connector on the end of the wire and crimp a new one on. It seems like the crimping around the wir...

If you have an ignition bypass wired up in the engine bay of your van and activating this makes it work again, then it has to be an ignition problem somewhere in the original circuit. I would be going for the ignition switch on the steering column. If I'm reading this correctly though, the bypass is...