Club 80-90 Forums

I'd agree with a water based PU varnish is the most fuss free, ideally 3 coats, de-nibbed between each with fine wire wool or 600 grit paper. The Ronseal Diamond mentioned is a good one. Osmo hard wax oil is also a good option but it will yellow more over time in a sunny van. There is some pics of ...

I'd agree with a water based PU varnish is the most fuss free, ideally 3 coats, de-nibbed between each with fine wire wool or 600 grit paper. The Ronseal Diamond mentioned is a good one. Osmo hard wax oil is also a good option but it will yellow more over time in a sunny van. There is some pics of m...

I've just taken my tank out and replaced lots of rotten bits of overbraid hose for this reason (leaking when filled to the top). This blog post from James Akers is mega helpful https://vwt25.blog/2016/05/03/replacing-the-fuel-tank/.

Have you checked all the vacuum hoses and the vacuum advance on the distributor? A perforated vac advance will cause it to stall when ever you slow down or stop at a junction for example.

I would avoid painting things with PVA unless you planning on plastering them! If it gets wet they will just go skanky. If you are going for the wood look, a PU varnish would be a good idea. As many coats as you can stand, de-nibbed between each coat with fine paper or wire wool. If you are going to...

Hi, I have the JP/ Just Kampers one. The quality is not bad for the money and it does the job, it's been on 3 years and no cracks or issues. It's a straight swap using the stock silencer hangers so easy to fit. Yes, the clamps are mild steel but you could swap them for stainless for relatively littl...

‘Officially’ OK, perhaps poor choice of word, but most of the ‘official’ Electrolux / Dometic install guides for absorption fridges recommend a lower and upper vent for them to work with the greatest efficiency. They can struggle when it gets really hot in a hot van. Compressor does seem to be the w...

The 3-way fridge just aligns with the vent but the gas burner is connected or passes through the panel. Officially there should be a an upper and lower vent, exhaust for the gas burner + a drop vent in the floor in the event of a gas leak. Often there is a just a upper vent + the exhaust. If it been...

If you are placing it under the seat make sure the battery is the low profile type (175mm high). The taller ones (typically 195 and 220mm) wont allow you to get the lid shut or slide the seat back. The type AngeloEvs mentioned is the low height one.

Not far off I would guess. It all depends how much stuff you have in it! My stock 1.9 DG with a hightop and a reasonable amount of camping interior, assorted guff + wife + child + dog will manage 70mph+ with some encouragement and good run up (but no one can hear themselves think let alone speak!). ...

The above being totally true and good advice, if the dampers are leaky and the various rubber bushes that make up the steering and suspension are rotten, replacing these, even like-for-like will make a huge difference. My converted panel van is pretty much stock, but new Bilstein Dampers and poly st...

I would check that the vacuum advance on the distributor is still holding a vacuum. Test it by sucking! If the diaphragm inside has a hole it will have trouble idling after choke comes off as the timing won’t be retarded at idle.

Re: the lights I just bonded ply strips or rings to the places where I wanted to screw them with PU adhesive (sikaflex) and taped the cables in place before I glued the carpet up.

Mine was just done with 10mm foil back self adhesive foam insulation stuck into the high top and then the carpet spray glued over the top to the foil side. The carpet sticks to the foil absolutely fine (the spray glue is mega sticky). The only problem I had is that the self adhesive insulation neede...

Those crimped on clamps (Oetiker) are one-hit-wonders so any method that gets them off is fine - twist of with screwdriver, cut them with snips or wire cutters, dremel etc.