Club 80-90 Forums

The belt size you put, 6 x 100 doesn’t sound right, thats why I said 10 x 600. Just come actoss my spares and I have 6 x 100 on the alternator, 6 x 643 on the water pump. If you can’t read the code on your old belt try a local v belt supplier, they’ll be able to measure/match it and saves messing ar...

Small sprung lever/catch on the inner bracket that holds the base of the seat to the back. Located at the lower front of the bracket. Lift it up and wrestle the seat forwards. Assuming standard seats are fitted

A new belt will likely be tighter, AVX 10x 600 'should' be the one you need. If you're fitting it with the engine out I think you'll struggle to get the belt to sit properly in the pulley and this is probably why it's loose. What works for me is to fit the belt, tighten the pulley bolts up and then ...

Could be that with the belt slipping a little, over time the pulley surfaces have been polished.  Try roughing them up with some sandpaper or emery cloth so the belt grips better. Had similar problem and this worked.

multisi wrote: ↑20 Jul 2025, 09:57 Its only the rubber boot thats the problem.

yes, realised that, the offer of the kit was to take the lot (free) if passing here on the way to the ferry and use whatever needed

If above doesn't work, the nut can bottom out on the threads, try a small washer under the nut, with internal diameter large enough to slip over the spindle splines, to force the wiper arm further onto the spindle.

whereabouts are you? I have a complete CV joint kit in Bournemouth you can have, or if you're catching the ferry from Poole you can grab it on the way through

Water pump belt tension is adjusted by adding/removing shims from the middle of the pulley. To increase tension, undo the three bolts holding the pulley on, take off the outer, pop a shim out and re-assemble. Run the engine briefly to let the belt settle in the pulley and re-tighten the bolts.

I had thought that as well but the bolt option seemed easier. Can’t see you have anything to lose by trying it. Rather than a washer, maybe make a pair of plates the same shape as the lug and drill two holes either side at the base where there’s more metal to play with.

Is there a bolt somewhere to the right of the hole that you could run a bracket/plate from? Bracket doesn't need to be that thick as it's just to stop the bolt slipping sideways and hold it in position when you tighten it and with a decent washer on the back broken lug it should still provide the su...

There's this post on the Samba with a few different diagrams that may help....https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... order=desc

I did mine with smoothrite, several years ago now, still holding up well with only a very small number of chips on front edge/corners. As said above get a good thick coat on

Re the welds, only an assumption, but I'd guess whoever did the original engine swap modified the downpipe to fit, rather than using flexi-pipe

you've recently had an engine replacement, yes?  If so I'd have thought the manifold was swapped from the old 1Y to the 'new' AEF, in which case it SHOULD come off fairly easily.  Replacement CS manifolds seem readily available, for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155530442308. to get you moving ...

Had another look at the manifold picture....the crack appears to be where the stud should be.  If the other three are ok, with either studs fitted or the threads in the holes are good you might get away with re-attaching the downpipe with 3 fixings for now, at least to get mobile again.  Probably ne...