Club 80-90 Forums

multisi wrote: ↑20 Jul 2025, 09:57 Its only the rubber boot thats the problem.

yes, realised that, the offer of the kit was to take the lot (free) if passing here on the way to the ferry and use whatever needed

If above doesn't work, the nut can bottom out on the threads, try a small washer under the nut, with internal diameter large enough to slip over the spindle splines, to force the wiper arm further onto the spindle.

whereabouts are you? I have a complete CV joint kit in Bournemouth you can have, or if you're catching the ferry from Poole you can grab it on the way through

Water pump belt tension is adjusted by adding/removing shims from the middle of the pulley. To increase tension, undo the three bolts holding the pulley on, take off the outer, pop a shim out and re-assemble. Run the engine briefly to let the belt settle in the pulley and re-tighten the bolts.

I had thought that as well but the bolt option seemed easier. Can’t see you have anything to lose by trying it. Rather than a washer, maybe make a pair of plates the same shape as the lug and drill two holes either side at the base where there’s more metal to play with.

Is there a bolt somewhere to the right of the hole that you could run a bracket/plate from? Bracket doesn't need to be that thick as it's just to stop the bolt slipping sideways and hold it in position when you tighten it and with a decent washer on the back broken lug it should still provide the su...

There's this post on the Samba with a few different diagrams that may help....https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... order=desc

I did mine with smoothrite, several years ago now, still holding up well with only a very small number of chips on front edge/corners. As said above get a good thick coat on

Re the welds, only an assumption, but I'd guess whoever did the original engine swap modified the downpipe to fit, rather than using flexi-pipe

you've recently had an engine replacement, yes?  If so I'd have thought the manifold was swapped from the old 1Y to the 'new' AEF, in which case it SHOULD come off fairly easily.  Replacement CS manifolds seem readily available, for example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155530442308. to get you moving ...

Had another look at the manifold picture....the crack appears to be where the stud should be.  If the other three are ok, with either studs fitted or the threads in the holes are good you might get away with re-attaching the downpipe with 3 fixings for now, at least to get mobile again.  Probably ne...

Yes should be bonded to the plate. Buy three and replace all, theyre cheap enough and you dont want to be doing it all again if the ‘good’ one fails. Possibly a result of brute force and ignorance but maybe just bad luck that both went at the same time

Re the manifold, I'd say probably not salvageable, given it's cracked and split open I doubt the mountings for the downpipe will marry up.  Even if it could be saved, it'd have to come off to be sorted, in which case may as well replace it, by the time you've found someone who can weld cast material...

To remove the silencer, at the manifold/down-pipe end undo the two highlighted in green (17mm?), tailpipe end it's the two highlighted yellow.  If these are just spinning, it sounds like they're no longer bonded into the rubber you might be lucky and be able to force the silencer off once the exhaus...

Maybe the ignition switch. Have you tried jumping the starter by shorting across the battery and ignition terminals with a screwdriver, or a wire direct from battery to the ignition terminal on starter, with ignition on?  If it turns over/starts then I'd start looking at the ignition switch and/or a...