Club 80-90 Forums

Hi Folks I am now beginning to take steps towards my long-range goal of rebuilding a spare JX block that I acquired. I would seriously like some help with this undertaking since I have never done such a thing previously. It will still be some time before I actually begin the work > in the meantime I...

Dependent upon the geometry, the K14 would spin much quicker at lower revs but would probably run at of puff at higher revs. So maybe helping with some lag and easier to climb hills but overall a downgrade. I am sure there are some experts on here but I would stick with the K24, if that was OEM. No...

I need to buy a new turbo as soon as possible, and I am struggling to make a decision between buying a KKK K14 or a KKK K24 . I have a K24 on the van now and it performs fine. The highest altitude I drove it was Brenner Pass 1500m, and still it was OK - no problems. . But I am told that a K14 perfor...

Anyway, I realized that I will not have to remove that upper ball joint nut after all because: 1) I do not need to replace ball joints and tie rod ends 2) I will keep the Lower Control Arm, Radius Rod, Steering Knuckle, Spindle and both Ball Joints all together as one unit - and remove that all at o...

with the upper wishbone balljoint removed the upright will swivel out at the top allowing access to the nut for the lower ball joint yes just undo the steering joint, there's a mark on the rack for centred so centre it and paint mark it all if you like but it should go back together correct if all ...

Hi.... ...I am currently re-building my front suspension... ALL new bushings - no ball joints/tie rod ends because they are new from the previous owner. Shocks... I am not sure yet. I will also replace the rotors and wheel bearings, but I will leave the calipers alone (except for painting the exteri...

HI Dave
Thanks... what did you actually have done? Did you get a re-conditioned K14 in exchange for your old one? Did yours die a horrible death, or just start whining and smoking, or?
Thanks

Does anyone know of a good manufacturer of the KKK K14 CHRA.

Hi Ed,I undid the pump mounting bolts with the pump in place,to remove the pump sprocket I wedged the back of the sprocket (with tyre levers) and with the shaft nut loosened give the nut a tap with a hammer... Kr. Ahhh... I have been also trying this method - but the sprocket is not coming off. How...

What do the guys on "The samba"say about your pump? the pump on my van has a bit of play and the belt was tracking in towards the pump,After moving the pump cradle {on Andrews advice} the belt is tracking in the middle of the pulley! A re-conned pump is over £600!! Re-conmed pumps are a b...

Hi Everyone... I have been away for a couple of months and now back to my van and my engine with this somewhat drawn out project to replace the TB, waterpump, and do valve lash etc.. In the process I discovered that the TB has been tracking right on the outside edge of the IP SPROCKET, meaning there...

Wychall wrote:I have no experience of the JX engine but would guess that the shim is held in by the oil. I would usually overcome this with a strong magnet.
Hope this helps and apologies if I have misunderstood the question.

That's a good idea!

Hi Everyone I am doing the valve lash adjustments (along with a whole bunch of other stuff...) and I have the camshaft completely out. I have measured the valve clearances and there is just one gap out of spec and some others could use tweeking... I want to take them all out - see their thicknesses ...

The PO said the kitchen water tank is empty (? let's hope so... but how to check? perhaps there is a drain plug - must look tomorrow... BUT yes yes you are right - I forgot about the windshield wipers... I guess it is enough to pour in there some antifreeze?? Or is there some special fluid? ....mayb...

So probably I am now OK with regard to the coolant situation - this is what I did: 1) with waterpump off, siphoned off 3/4L of water and then replaced that with 3/4L pure coolant --- now that seems well mixed. 2) opened one main hose near RAD (drained) 3) opened the other main hose up by the engine ...