Club 80-90 Forums

my VW mechanic thought alone similar lines when I told him when I brought the van in for it's MOT on friday.  He'd obv done some tightening up on the stalk as it is now crisp on squirting.  Job sorted!

I've had an oil drip for the past 10 years.  I still have it but it isn't peshing out - just the odd drop.  Tis annoying. It was worse last year and after looking around I determined the oil breather tower was a likely culprit.  Took it off, renewed the O-ring and re-tightened it.  Now it is dry up ...

did your radiator fan kick in before you installed a chicken switch? - what temp do you turn it on at?  It is odd that changing thermostat and flushing lines etc you are still getting a hot coolant indication.  I renewed all my coolant lines 2 years ago AND changed out the radiator.  It was a bit of...

87 DG WBX Komet high top - Anyone have a problem getting the wiper fluid pump to spray?  The pump works fine - just removed it and tested it.  No blockages in the lines or nozzles.  It does not automatically squirt when I pull back the wiper lever.  Definitely no spray if the wipers are not on but i...

I bought the expensive 2-3mil thick plastic pieces (Campervan culture?) and installed them after I put in the new radiator.  The oem cardboard ones had rotted away long before i got the van.  These new ones do the job very well of forcing the air through the radiator and I thought they were a good b...

I had a somewhat similar issue after bursting a brake line and Quikfit was able to put a new one in.  What they weren't able to do though was a complete bleed out of the air.  They let me know this and I trialled using the brakes - the pedal went at least halfway down before resistance and the cure ...

imho seam rust is very unlikely to cause a MOT failure.
But it is an indicator that there could be problems on the inside or the rust has migrated down into critical areas.
Be more helpful if you could post pics of underneath, lifting points, trailing arm bushings etc so we could see them.
 

And here is the new correct seal installed.  A bit messy with the autoglass sealant to help seal the not so smoot re-painting, but I'm pleased I was able to get it installed just by myself.  Final clean up today.

Well at least I've had time to get it all ready for the new seal.  A bit bumpy of a finish truth be told but I've got some recommended sealant to assist with this when I put the Claytonite seal in.  thanks again for your help!

You're right, helpful chappie at Phoenix trim will get right Claytonrite seal and gubbins ready for the courier today.  Still time to get it sorted before Saturday (said hopefully  :roll: ).   I wish Heritage would have put some additional info about the seal not useable for non-factory windows. Big...

It's  Rear Side Window Seal Plain SKU: 253-845-341 Now I am worried that I haven't chosen the Claytonite seal...  That's what was originally installed but my view is now that it wasn't tight enough seal or has shrunk over time allowing in moisture.  The windows don't actually leak. Seeing as we are ...

and here is the seal.  This is the bottom of the seal...so is the top side in this photo on the outside? 

Hi, I'm process of dealing with rust under the old window seal.  I'm almost ready to re-install the window with a new seal (from Heritage). My question is, and sorry for being dumb, which bit of the seal goes on the inside and which goes on the outside? One side has 3 seal flaps.  The old seal had t...

Hi everyone, before I tackle changing the oil pump seal, I thought I'd ask if there are any typical surprises to look out for when getting access to it?  I believe I have to remove the main crank wheel/pulley first?  Can I replace the oil pump seal without having to drop the engine down? I've just d...

check that the wee filter in the carb itself isn't blocked after all that work?