Club 80-90 Forums

Oldiebut goodie wrote:It's not a case of the water pump impeller slipping on its shaft? Once up to a certain temp the grip has loosened enough to be useless, hence all being good when cold. Just musing.

Hmmm...I wonder???

All great thoughts and ideas, thanks for sharing them, people

How far can you drive it keeping the speed down? If you can drive all day keeping the speed down without it cooking itself then I would say the flow is OK and the radiator can't dissipate the heat Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk Right...well, last weekend I drove from Gosport to Verwood (about...

gary1998 wrote:I've read somewhere or was told by someone that a rad from a 3000 TDi range-rover is
the one to have with that engine in a t3

Thanks Gary, looks like they come either plain or with an intercooler. Not sure how either would fit?

300 Tdi possibly ;) Its such a rare engine swap over here its unlikely to be common knowledge. The SA has the same coolant pipes as any other T3, they might be more like the td ones but its a minor detail. No stat is a no-no as you say, there will be no back pressure and the pump will just thrash a...

My 2.6 uses the 2.1 rad core and doesnt overheat. If the Cologne v6 waterpump is running too slow or isnt a high-flow item than it might beed a smaller pulley to up its rpm, trouble is that at high speed the pump will max out... Does the engine still have a proper working bypass system? If badly pl...

If the radiator is original then it is most likely partially blocked it's probably best to replace it with the td 44mm core one anyway. If the radiator is a recent replacement the either you have a duff pump, duff thermostat or the engine is not plumbed in correctly, or of course it's a combination...

syncroandy wrote:
I've no knowledge of this engine but didn't you check the heads/block for warpage and skim as required ?

Yes, both heads were skimmed and original (not replica) gaskets fitted - they were a bitch to find

If the radiator is original then it is most likely partially blocked it's probably best to replace it with the td 44mm core one anyway. If the radiator is a recent replacement the either you have a duff pump, duff thermostat or the engine is not plumbed in correctly, or of course it's a combination...

Hey I'm having some issues trying to keep my engine cool. Its a 2.3 V6 Cologne from a Ford Granada. I blew a head gasket at Van West the other month after the water pump gasket went and I lost my coolant - £970 later, both head gaskets changed, new water pump and oil switch, cooling system refilled,...

Sorted. Rusty Lee called me and gave me some hints....

Clamp the frame in bed mode, offer it up and "fettle" until it fits. I had to drill new holes in the bracket as it sat a bit low, but it's in and it looks great.

Hi clubbers Just bought a full size Rusty Lee RnR but I'm really struggling to fit it. Anyone got any useful tips? I can't find any good info on the web. I know I need to raise the engine bay, but I don't know where the base needs to go, what angle it sits at, whether it needs to be bolted to the fl...

Thats good to know, thanks

I note that JK stock the old one, just need to get the AA to pay for it seeing as they lost the bloody thing...

Hi To cut a long story short, I need a replacement round headlight radiator grill (large badge) for my '89 van, but they seem to be as rare as hens' teeth. I'm not a purist, and would be happy to fit a older (small badge) grill but does anyone know if the fixtures/fittings the same? I've checked the...

OK so award for stupid owner goes to me. I was earthing the input instead of the multiplug

Result - no buzzing when ignition goes on, oil pressure lamp goes out when engine runs! Success - thank you

Hey, sorry for late reply, just spent a week in France (without the van :( ), just got back last night so I thought I'd give your bodge a go. So I snipped the yellow cable going into the dash multiplug and connected it directly to earth using a chocolate block - no change. Still got constant buzzer/...