Club 80-90 Forums

Thank you all for the help.  I have had a good look and am pretty certain that it's coming from the throttle lever.  I assume that that's the bit on top near at the rear of the vehicle with a couple of springs and what look like plastic seating inside the springs. I have a clip on my phone of it dri...

The truck is finally going after being stood for about 2 years and sounds really good. There is however a steady leak from under the diesel pump. I am gussing that it's coming somewhere from by the throttle spindle, maybe a seal has dried up over those couple of years. Has anyone experience of this ...

Thank you Aidan. I reckon you've hit the nail on the head there. it's sort of kinked a couple of times which would probably indicate that it's been folded up out of the way for some time. There' s nowhere close by for it to go to!!
Cheers. I can stop scrathing my head.

So.....according to the Samba the blue/brown is the difflock switch. Which leaves me with the brown/black to fathom out.

Possibly Aidan but I have tried and I don't think it will stretch unless I have it routed the wrong way around the chassis (which is possible).

The colour codes of both sets of wires don't appear anywhere on the  wiring diagrams which would possibly indicate syncro specific.
 

I almost have the syncro back together and am just finishing the wiring but I seem to have a wire over and can't for the life of me figure out where it goes! It is a brown/black wire with (I assume) a light brown earth and it's hanging down between the gearbox and the trailing arm on the left side. ...

I'm doing mine at the moment and spent ages looking for this part until I worked out that it comes as part of the slave cylinder.

I am in the process of offering up a SMF clutch to my diesel bell housing. The link on Brickwerks is really useful in identifying which parts of the bell housing to grind back in order for the SMF (or DMF for that matter) to clear the casing.   Does anyone who's done this already have any tips about...

Thanks for the photos.

I have learnt this morning (thanks Aidan) that my bumper irons are the Westfalia type. There is a pretty solid tube welded between the irons and also there are 3 bolts holding them into the chassis.

Thanks all for clarifying the situation. 

Aha!

I can answer my own question. Brickwerks and others sell the brackets and they only have threaded holes on one side......

Thanks for clarifying which bolts hold it on. There is a third forward of those which I thought moved a little too easily! Are those two bolts threaded on the side where the heads are? By which I mean is the threaded section immediately next to the bolt heads and not on the opposite side of the chas...

Thanks Aidan.
On closer inspection I'm not sure that I want to try pulling that apart.
I'll maybe look for a bodycut at some point. I imagine that that part of the panel (the bit with the holes!) is common to vans and pickups and that it's only the upper part which is different.
 

I am in the proces of doing quite a bit of work on the Doka and the rear lower part of the valance, behind where the big solid tubular bracket which the bumper and tow bar bolt onto, is pretty rough.  Is it a case  of undoing the two large bolts underneath which go into the rear chassis member on ea...

Maybe try a needle scaler if you have a compressor.  This will help you to remove any loose areas of bodywork and, more importantly, expose strucural weakness on the chassis. It doesn't leave a particularly smooth finish but will get into places that angle grinders/flap wheels/wire brushes won't get...

Look identical to r&r hinges that I fitted in my sprinter years ago. They work perfectly alright. Maybe realign the boards but I guess whoever fitted them looked at them carefully.